Plasterboard jointing tape

[tonyv]

I've just bought a roll of the self-adhesive fibreglass tape intended for joining plasterboard sheets. Having (belatedly, perhaps) looked at the instructions, is advises not to be used for ceilings, which was precisely my intention. Does anyone know why there is this restriction, and what disaster will befall me if I ignore this advice?

[Théière]

Nope, apart from it possibly showing through if not burried deep enough [:$]

[Anton Redman II]

There is posh - never seen tape with instructions before. Tape pulls away from the celing as the glue cannot cope with the weight of the filler and movement when applying it.  Try a test peice and if their are problems try ancouring tape with filler every 50 cms leaving to dry before applying first coat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[tonyv]

Yeah, posh tape from brico depot!

Thanks, Anton; I'll give it a go.

[Doodle]

Hi Anton,

How did it go? I've just bought the same and got a look of disgust from my french neighbour who swears by the paper tape!

Chris

[sid]

Hi

I'm interested in this too! I've got a plasterboarding project about to start. I've used the paper type on walls before without problem.

I didn't understand the statement about "glue" Anton; I anchored mine (on the walls) in the initial layer of "pate" filler and then left it overnight before applying further filler.

Is there a different technique for ceilings?

Sid

  

[Jay]

The tape they are talking about is a mesh which is self adhesive . I have use this and it is so much better than the paper type. To use it on ceilings I would stick it on and used a wallpaper roller to flatten it down so it stuck properly. Buy a roll of the decent quality stuff and it should stick ok.

[Jay]

THIS is the stuff (BANDE AUTOCOLLANTE POUR JOINT)

[PaulT]

[quote user="tonyv"]Yeah, posh tape from brico depot!

Thanks, Anton; I'll give it a go.
[/quote]

Even posher reading the instructions [:)]

[BIG MAC]

Self adhesive scrim tape is held in place by the caulking and paper tape is sometimes soaked to make it stick...all in all scrim tape on tapered edge boards and run in with wet caulking would be my preference. If you are taing and jointing you need a narrow culking blade to push the tape into the 'Valley' of the tapered boards - then fill with a wider blade...this way when sanding you will be unlikely to expose the reinforcement..

[BIG MAC]

Self adhesive scrim tape is held in place by the caulking and paper tape is sometimes soaked to make it stick...all in all scrim tape on tapered edge boards and run in with wet caulking would be my preference. If you are taing and jointing you need a narrow culking blade to push the tape into the 'Valley' of the tapered boards - then fill with a wider blade...this way when sanding you will be unlikely to expose the reinforcement..

[Jay]

I think you already said that. I think you already said that!

[BIG MAC]

I know ..I know....it's off to work I go...to find out why the servers died, I know I know I know I know....

Our server is configured to prevent duplicate postings....Oh yeah? ;-)

[Alan Zoff]

Was perfect for me as I have to read everything twice before it starts to sink in.

[LesFlamands]

Two things occur to me regarding this recommendation not to use the perferated tape for ceiling joints:

1. ceilings often involve end butt joints where there are no tapered edges and you should use paper tape for these joints.

2. On very rare occasions I have seen hairline cracks appear in the joints but only where the ceiling boards have been screwed directly to the joists. We always use suspente and rails.

In most circumstances the first coat should fill the mesh. I use a 10cm knife which just spans the tapered edges for the first pass and then a much wider blade for the second coat. If you are careful and the cosistency of you plaster is correct very little sanding should be required.

[sid]

Sorry, late to respond... again!

Thanks one and all for the replies.

I'll have a look at the mesh stuff; probably OK for repairing hernias too, after carrying all the plasterboard upstairs! [:D]

LesFlamands: that's a good point about the joists v suspentes/rails! Makes sense. [;-)]

Sid

[Kittycat]

I've been using the mesh/scrim tape on ceilings for years & never had a single problem. I don't have problems with the tape staying in place, but it depends how 'cleanly' you work. If the surface of your boards are covered in dust then you might have a problem getting it to stick.

As already stated the paper tape is easier to 'hide' non-tapered joints.

[Chancer]

Gien its extra cost and limitations why do so many people want to use the mesh tape, is it difficulty of using the paper tape?

Do any of you pre-soak your paper tape?

I precut them to slightly over length and keep them in a bucket of water before putting them up, I also find the micro-perforated tapes seat better on the first coat as they retain less of the pug behind them.

[sid]

[quote user="Chancer"]

Do any of you pre-soak your paper tape?

[/quote]

Chancer

I didn't pre-soak mine, and this may explain the difficulty I had with the first strip which refused to lay flat. However, the rest then worked OK so it was probably just my technique (or lack of). [blink]

I had watched several "how to do it" videos, all French, on YouTube, and none mentioned soaking the tape. Presuambly this takes longer to dry out before the top coats can be applied?

All the jointing seems to take as long as putting the boards up! [:@]

Sid 

[Chancer]

I paid a bandiste cash to do my first bands, money well spent as there was no sanding required and I learned from a pro, the downside was like many soi disant pros he didnt know why he did what he did just that he had been told to do it that way, he did however work with that economy of movement, tools and materials that only the experienced acquire.

He told me never to use the sticky tape, why not I asked? Because it will all crack he told me, on further cross-examination he said it was only what he had been tild as he had never used it his-self as he had been told not to [:)]

I find it more pliable wet and the pug squeegees out from under it easier, too wet and its hard to tear off against the taping knife, it makes corners a lot easier, I have also seen one job where all the joints were gradually peeling away with the tape attached, I dont quite know what went wrong but i suspect dry tape and perhaps the wrong enduit.

Last year I bought une ponceuse à giroffe and its waiting in stock for when I do my bandes, mine are raely good enough to avoid sanding, has anyone used one? How did you find it?

Its the type with a vacuum cleaner on a shoulder strap.

[Kittycat]

Plasterers have been using scrim tape, in its various forms, for donkeys years because it doesn't crack. Use paper tape in corners (it's pre-folded for the purpose) and on flat butt joints. For all other joints use scrim/mesh tape. I have NEVER had a scrim taped joint crack - if a joint cracks then there's something wrong with your construction method, ie boards screwed directly to the underside of rafters is a normal cause of problems here.

Paper tape can be used wet or dry. Beginers will find it easier to 'bed' wet tape - run it through your fingers like a squegge as you take it out of the water to squeeze of the excess first. Apply a thin band of filler to the joint and bed the tape into this with your filling knife, ensuring you use sufficent pressure to get the tape flat, but not so much that you squeeze out all the filler & leave nothing for the tape to stick to - wet paper tape will not stick to plasterboard on its own! Cover the joint with a thin coat of filler & leave to dry.

Depending on your type of filler & level of experience it will take another 1 or 2 layers of filler to get a smooth joint that requires little or no sanding. If you need to use electrical sanders to finish your work then you're wasting time & filler.

I'd rather spend an extra half a day on a large job ensuring I've applied my final coat well, than come back & face days of sanding - the client won't thank you for the dust either ;)

[Keni]

A few of our plasterboard type (ancient) ceilings appear to be bowing and 'popping' away from each other - you can push them slightly. I would like to stick them back together and then polycell over them - I know not a smooth finish, but compared to the walls in this house, they will most probably be the smoothest thing here. what is suggested - tape/scrim or anything else?

[Quillan]

Firstly why are the boards bowing, this normally indicates they are not fixed properly or the 'rafters' are too far apart. I would investigate this a little and see if there are rafters under the area that is bowed then try putting screws in.

I prefer the tacky web type tape myself although I am no expert. This was suggested to me by 'an expert' who said it would be easier for me to use (especially up side down) as it does stick a bit. I used a wide spreader and joint adhesive which needed just a quick 'flick over' with fine sandpaper afterwards (a professional wouldn't even need to sand it). If the ceiling is painted I would paint over the area your joining with white pva glue watered down to give it a better chance of sticking.

[Keni]

Thank you Quillan - will do as you say - we had some water through the ceiling and they started bowing after drying out, so will check & see that there are enough screws.

[Chancer]

You can buy large dished washers specifically for refixing ceilings where the boards have got damp I recommend that you refix the boards using them before you rejoint. I had the same problem with my UK kitchen ceiling and have redone it more than once.

I dont know what the trade name or technical term is in English or French but I have seen them in both places