Gluestick

Most transactions date from the time that the event took place, for tax purposes: when you are actually paid has no bearing. This has caught out many people, in the reverse sense! For example, if selling a business, vendors often agree to defer payment of some of the funds. Unfortunately, the tax becomes due on the date of sale! Agreeing to accept a consideration (money or other value) at an indeterminate time in the future can be dangerous: as the tax is due from the moment the agreement is signed! This can apply to both Income and Capital taxes. Selling your house in the UK was crystalised before you became French residents.  

Some cast iron rads come apart in sections. If they are taken apart then they will need new gaskets/seals. Simply washing them out will not necessarily achieve much, other than to displace the sludge that sits mainly at the bottom. The main problem with cast iron is rust corrosion, which reduces the free flow of water and prevents good heat dispersal through the casting and thus to the ambient air. The level of inner corrosion would depend on how long they have been in service and whether anti-corrosion inhibiter fluid has been rigorously maintained. Old french house? Probably not. Personally I would carefully examine the last rad in the circuit - as sludge tends to be carried along and the last rads sludge up more than the first  - and make a go/no go decision on that basis. If the rads are well corroded, internally, then they would require chemical dipping to clean out the water ways. Not cheap. Most restorers include sand blasting and enamelling in their price.Beware "Restorers" who simply sandblast and make them look pretty! They need cleaning internally and pressure testing prior to commissioning. (Corrosion can create "Pin Holes" which will fail in short time! Cleaning and sandblasting can remove the surface paint and rust which has been sealing these pinholes up!) Efficiency: modern rads have far more finning and surface area exposed to air and thus are much more effective heat exchangers. Additionally, materials such as aluminium have a far higher ability to conduct heat and are thus better as heat exchangers. For example the Thermal Conductivity of Aluminium of 4.5 times that of steel: and copper is 9.5 times that of steel. Cast iron has lots of free carbon and is less effective at conducting heat than steel. There area number of restorers on the web. It may well pay you to replace the old rads with new cast ally models.  

Many thanks, everyone. I must say I have met some very interesting people, during the original property search phase and thereafter, who many times, shared a similar vision. One charming chap and his wife were looking for space, in order that he could move his woodworking workshop: previously a director of the UK arm of Total, he thereafter made furniture: and not just any furniture! Vast boardroom and manor house dining tables and built-in units. Another chum near us in France, is an early retired aviation engineer: very clever bloke, who sort of gave up in disgust! Having almost finished his house, he is now concentrating on his engineering workshop and getting it all together. Perhaps I can leave you all with another of my favourite quotes, this time from the Henry Royce (of Rolls Royce fame): it sums it all up neatly, for me: "The quality remains, long after the price has been forgotten."

Chris, I truly emphathise with what you, Robin and others have written. Most of my life has been a dichotomy of purpose. The "Real" inner me only wants to achieve as near total satisfaction as possible, by turning out projects, with my own hands which accord to my basic precept, "When it's 120% right: it's almost good enough!" Sadly, life today is all about money and wealth and meaningless trifles which soon erode and decay. It is very difficult to preserve and maintain standards when all around one sees cowboys getting rich quick by screwing people. Worse, when it comes to buying most things, perfectionists and craftsmen (and of course women!) have to compete on a level playing field with the cowboys: there are, sadly, no discounts for integrity and good intent! Oh that there were.................... I really struggled with these problems when I was running my specialist automotive business, back in the dim distant days of the late sixties and early seventies. most of what we did was routine maintenance, tuning and repair of high quality and performance cars, as an aside to my real purpose, racing and competition cars! Inevitably, bread and butter - and wages - had to be paid by routine work on "Normal" cars, however, the same high standards were applied and maintained. At times, it was soul destroying, as fellow garage owners used every naughty trick in the book to maximise profits and screw their customers. Even more so with car sales. Sometime after I had sold out, I remember enjoying a beer with an old customer, who proudly informed me that he was still running the secondhand Ford Escort I had sold him, was still delighted with it and had had no problems. And insisted on buying me a beer! That was, to some extent a nice feeling to retain. Soon, I hope to move to La Belle France full time and then I shall start my planned craft business. I won't make much money: I don't expect to, but I shall enjoy every second of exercising my creative abilities, small as they are, and gaining huge personal satisfaction from a job completed to the very best of my limited ability and high aims. Which I cannot enjoy at present. Chris, your work is amazing: keep on enjoying it and I'm sure, in the end, virtue will have its own reward. Won't be money, probably but recognition, which is far more valuable if you are able to eat! Above, remember that to endeavour to educate idiots is pretty much a waste of time. And boy, there are certainly some British idiots who hae relocated to France, flush (thanks to their UK houses) with more ready cash than they have ever seen in their lives! And delusions of grandeure; trying to recreate what they couldn't afford in Blighty and to me, totally missing the point! Perhaps a quote from Oscar Wilde sums it all up. "There are many who know the price of everything and the value of nothing!"  

Better yet, you can use any programmer within reason, as long as it is wired up correctly. Same with a thermostat. The progrmmer doesn't have to be within the boiler housing: it can be external. Using a dedicated manufacturer's programmer makes life a bit easier. In principle, both the central heating programmer and the thermostat are automatic switches, which simply turn the system on and off, but cutting power to the boiler's inner control system. It becomes more complicated when you have control valves to provide priority to either heating or hot water. A good programer, today, has inbuilt battery back-up to preserve both time and memory (Power Cuts!) and a wide variety of programmes to suit most users. Personally, I avoid the more complex prgrammers as you need lots of time and a PhD in logic to programme them! And by the time you want/need to re-set the damned thing, you have forgotten how to do it and have to start right from the beginning, again!  

Always seems to be some confusion about this one. Heures Creuse applies to the whole supply, if you have the cheap rate, since it only a function of the compteure (meter), which measures consumption after cheap rate commences and when it finishes and logs power used between the On and Off times as one log: and all power used during other (Heures Pleine) times as the other. My bill is thus in two parts: one charge for the power used during Heures Creuse and another for Heures Plein plus the abonnement. The special switch for Ballons, e.g. is simply two parts. The first switches On and Off using a pulse sent down the line by EDF: on at circa Midnight and Off at circa 08.00AM. The selector switch allows the user to choose, Off; or On permanently, or finally Pulse. Thus when the selector switch is set to Pulse, the Pulse switchwill not enliven the Ballon circuit until the cheap (Heures Creuse) rate applies. Nothing stopping you from wiring other appliances in the same way, however modern washing machines/diswashers often now have an inbuilt timer circuit whereby the user may select a time when the cheap rate applies, thus in this case it is not necessary. Nick: Why ought you to duck? Most UK new and replacement plumbing now uses closed systems and combi-condensing boilers are increasingly the norm. Gravity systems are, archaic and unhealthy: all that water festering away in an open storage tank. Yuk!  

Thanks, Brian Useful URLs, too.  

Off topic, I know, Clair (Apols Admin!). Is your avatar pic a genuine Lotus or a Caterham Super Seven? And where was it taken?  

Thanks. I was searching here: http://www.gizmology.net/LEDs.htm The bit about halfway down seems correct? (Running LEDs from an AC power source?). Also looking at other sources, since I too have a couple of projects to utilise high-output LEDs for AC supply.  

They are simply one of, if not the best in Europe perhaps the best European boiler being probably Viesmann http://www.viessmann.co.uk/ . But, naturally, very expensive when compared to Lamborghini (amongst the cheapest) and Chappi, middle to upper price range. Condensing boilers, as yet are still quite rare in France, but gaining in availability, which is pretty strange, actually, as France does seem to be in advance of most other EU states in terms of environmental impact.  

You can operate LEDs on AC in point of fact, but a "Normal" LED will suffer from restricted light output as the current alternates. One Korean semi-conducter manufacturer only recently announced a new range of dedicated LEDs for AC operation. http://www.seoulsemicon.com/eng_seoul/English/popup_content.asp?news_idx=8  

We've discussed this one before! You don't actually need an inspection, since you are already connected to the main. However, it may be a good idea for the future, as a buyer may well insist on sight of a certificate. Whilst this has not been a common occurence, possibly with the new regulations it may well become more common. Additionally, some doubt has been expressed by members on the old thorny subject of insurance! If you were to experience a fire and had no certificate to prove compliance, then in theory, the underwriters might repudiate cover. I suppose it would always be possible to tell them that........................the certificate was incinerated in the conflagration! [;-)]  

Do I detect some cynicism here, Robin? [;-)] Had a similar email from a mate yesterday: early retired (given up more like!) aeronautical engineer, living in France full time, but goes back to the UK for odd consulting assignments. His current bette noir are the equally spotty "Managers" and "Executives" who speak in endless gobbledegook and buzzword jargon, such as "Blue Sky" and Cascading Upwards (Show me such a waterfall, please!). As he said, being a blunt and very clever Yorkshireman, "Lads in works will never cotton on to what twits are saying!" And later on, "No wonder t'Airbus is such a disaster!" - from the UK's position, of course![6]  

Has anyone any information on this question please? What is the position, in France if a person is resident, registered and taxed under the French system, if they are over retirement age (assume 65) and start a micro-enterprise? They will be in receipt of a UK retirement and company pension and have the correct UK documentation re health cover etc and will join a mutuelle for health top up costs. Are they still liable for social cotisations and at what level? Obviously, they would be captured for French income tax on their global income, whatever its source or type. But how about other charges?  

Prior to cast iron - which I understand is normal - it would have probably been made from stone. Could also be made of fired clay, as certain type (refracterie) are used to line furnaces which work at far higher temps than bread ovens. Cast iron was used and manufactured well before the industrial revolution: smiths "Welded" iron by heating and beating, forcing the metal together. They discovered forms of steel by accident and tended to combine iron and steel for swords and other weapons, by forging. Same with gun barrels. A  working replacement could be economically made from oxy-cut/plasma cut plate and decorated to synthesise cast decorative effects. Any competent metal shop should be able to assist. If, as Chris suggests, it is purely decorative, then use wood, until you are able to find a suitable replacement. All depends on the size and shape, as I understand (from looking at various old castings in France; OK, I'm sad!), that like the UK, casting tended to be a local business with architectural iron work such as gutters and downpipes etc being the work of local foundries and usually have the foundry's name in the casting, thus there may not be precise standard sizes. Old manhole covers are the historical clue, as in the UK!  

[quote user="Punch"] Yes if it's Ok with Forum Admin , I don't mind compiling some kind of Topic list with the basic items and regulations.  I've been familiar with the French wiring regulations since I bought my property here over 17 years ago. I have now been working here in France with the French system now for over 10 years and have a full working hardcopy of the French NFC 15-100 Regulations, and a good working knowledge of them, but I am always learning  as I go as the regulations are updated and evolve !  Paul Punchard.[/quote] If you could emulate Opal Fruit's magnus on heating and plumbing, that would be an awesome, and much consulted knowledge source! If it is possible to again copy Opal, and employ some pictures to make it all clear and give the French language names of all various cvommon bits and pices, then that would be ideal. A work of some magnitude, I fear![blink] As with all such reference sources, forum members would add new bits of information, questions, suggestions and comments, as it progressed; which is, of course on of the core values of such things.  

Greed never ever pays. As Gordon "One Eye" Brown is starting to find out, the Law of Diminishing Returns very much applies to fiscal policy. As the UK taxbase rises, inexorably and as more people can become more mobile at ever-younger age, tax avoidance becomes more critical: and a more interesting proposition! Become an Andoran resident - for which these days you must now buy residential property as with an increasing number of jurisdictions - which you can let for skiing, and thereafter, become a PT: no, not a P...... Taker, in tax terms, but a Permanent Traveller. One you have successfully established your new residence and domicile, you may then visit various European jurisdictions for up to 90 days and in some cases more, with no liability for local taxes. I am most interested how Philip Green, the owner of BHS etc, can remit £1,000,000,000 in dividends to Monaco - where his lady wife is resident, BTW, pay little UK income and capital gains tax and still seemingly run his various and involved UK businesses and regularly appear in the press and media? One law for one lot: and another for the stiffs, it would appear! Perhaps Mr Green is in line for a Baronetcy?[;-)]  

Another reasons for not using putty, Chris - which I forgot and ought to have mentioned before! - is that actually, glass never sets. Once molten glass is cast, it seems to solidify: in fact it is still marginally fluid and over time, flows when panes are mounted vertically, such as in a window. Old Victorian glass, for example, can clearly demonstrate (with a micrometer, e.g.) how it is much thicker at the bottom than the top. Ergo, using putty which sets rock hard, as the oil dries out, means that the bed is fixed, yet the glass is moving. Using mastic of the correct type means that the mastic bed can self-adjust, within reason, to the changing shape of the glass. Additionally sunlight causes the glass to expand and Winter cold the reverse: mastic will adjust to this, whereas over time, the putty bed will work lose.  

25 Kg load (tension) eh? Well, looks like a winner to support the pole for one's pole dancing kit! (25 Kgs lateral sheer load is.............................oh, can't be bothered to actually work it out, today![blink]). And before any member thinks I have - finally - gone loopy, I note that my last but one Makro Mail offers included just this indispensible bit of kit, suggesting that Pole Dancing was an excellent cardio-vascular workout. Also, flicking through a GUS catalogue in a client's office the other day, I notice that they also are selling a similar set.................. So for all you blokes out there, when you are late home from a Christmas run-up night out with the boys, the noveau excuse just has to be "No, Darling! We were watching an exhibition of a young lady doing cardio-vascular exercises, actually!" [;-)]  

If it only appeared after the service, it is probably a poor balance of the front wheels. Also possible that a weight simply came off within minutes of leaving the service station. It happens. Wheel "Shimmy" can be caused by a number of things: as already suggested a worn steering or suspension bush/joint amongst a number of other causes. Distorted disks create a vibration on braking and it is normally possible to feel the brake pedal kicking back, as the hydraulic system works both ways! I would have the front wheels checked for balance, again, as a starting point.  

My pleasure. One of the difficulties with Brico Depot is that the staff seem to have little product knowledge and even less interest in helping! Still, I guess that's what one can expect with their pile it high and sell it cheap philosophy! However, they can normally track items from the catalogue number. Normally...........[blink] With rock hard putty, try holding the chisel completely upright (flat side of the blade in the direction you intend to go) and simply "pull" the chisel along, putting considerable downward pressure on the handle. This way, you avoid digging in to the wood fibres: and the harder the putty has become, the more likely it is to come away. The chisel is acting as a scraper, rather than a cutter. Always use a much wider chisel than the rebate: avoids making a sort of trough in the material.  

I would be interested in the answer to that, too, Chris. Most DG units I have used have an ally width strip and the synthetic (neoprene I believe) back and end bits are pretty well concealed from direct sunlight and thus UV in a normal rebate, plus, of course, the exterior finish moulding provides some level of shield.  

The nationwide franchise outfits, like Toute Faire stock lintels. Simple to cast your own, as already suggested. Either galvanised channel or re-bar held in a wooden shutter and Bob's your Uncle. Depends on the weight, of course. If it's a two storey building, or more, you may well require a small RSJ.  

Brico Depot stock two: the most suitable appears to be Rubson, brand, Mastic Vitrage HP, cat. no. 731459, at € 6,52 per 310 ml tube. They also list an alternative product, again Rubson, Mastic Silicone Isolant, No. 731454 at € 8,32 per 310 ml tube . Removing putty from a glazing rebate is always hard, mainly since no one seems to adopt the old wheeze of firstly painting over the rebate with primer. The putty gets right down into the grain and is a pig to remove without bits of wood. I tend to use a reversed chisel and then draw the blade over the last bits of putty with the blade absolutely vertical to level and if necessary, finally, some course sandpaper to flatten the surface.  

Thanks, JJ. I shall be more careful in future! [blink] And now, all I have to do is remove the awful green paint from the windows and frames.................... Just repainted the exterior, cream; new shutters which I have finished in natural stain (Leyland - very good and far cheaper than Sadlins, e.g.) and I want all the windows and frames natural wood. It never ends..................