Tiled worktops?

[Araucaria]

I'm on the point of fitting out a utility room. It will contain a washing machine and a sink, as well as cupboards. Because of concrete thicknesses on the floor, there is a raised plinth - about 10cm high, and about 65cm out from the wall - below the area where the worktop will go. The washing machine can go on top of this, but using a flat worktop would make the sink inconveniently high. So where the sink is to go I wish to drop the level of the worktop. In addition, the worktop area is not exactly rectangular, and at one end it will be quite a bit wider than a standard laminate worktop - the walls are not quite square.

So rather than use an off the shelf worktop, I want to tile the worktop area instead, something I've never tried before. I've only previously tiled walls/floors and carreaux de platre. What is normally used as a support for tiles that are likely to be frequently wet? Is it some form of waterproof chipboard? Or plywood? Or what?

Any other tips would be appreciated too.

Thanks in advance!

[Les]

Do a search for "Panneau Aggloméré hydrofuge"

[Gluestick]

I would use the same composite board used to dry-line Wet Rooms. Perhaps laid on, say MDF to achieve necessary thickness.

And do not forget to use waterproof grouting.

As a point of interest, whenever I install laminated worktops, where water ingress is a given (e.g. cut-outs for sink tops), having cut out the hole, I seal the edges with copious application of thick Hammerite: I purposely save the dregs in the tin for this purpose.

[cooperlola]

I once cleaned houses to make a few squids (yes, really, me!).  Tiled worktops are a begger to clean and I never felt one really got them as "germ free" as a smooth one, since all the bits of crud seemed to congretate in the grouted bits - waterproof or not.

[Araucaria]

[quote user="Gluestick"]I would use the same composite board used to dry-line Wet Rooms. Perhaps laid on, say MDF to achieve necessary thickness.

And do not forget to use waterproof grouting.

As a point of interest, whenever I install laminated worktops, where water ingress is a given (e.g. cut-outs for sink tops), having cut out the hole, I seal the edges with copious application of thick Hammerite: I purposely save the dregs in the tin for this purpose.

[/quote]

Thanks for this Gluestick: by composite board do you mean the (usually green) waterproof plasterboard (placoplâtre hydrofuge)?

I will make a point of painting the cut edges underneath the sink: I think I have the odd tin of Hammerite gradually going hard which would do very well.

[Théière]

I thinks Gluey means Wedi board, dense foam core (waterproof) and a cementeous covering on matting. Incredibly strong and impact resistant except with a hammer!

[Gluestick]

On the button, T.

Different sorts but all good for wet rooms and etc.

The core prob is most composite and compressed board products "Blow" in damp. Even "Exterior" quality ply, after time.

[Chancer]

Why Hammerite in particular?

[Gluestick]

The "Cure" is chemical: rather than relying on purely aerobic drying oils.

Once set, then the substance is totally impervious to moisture ingress.

Additionally, rather than soak into the very absorbent material (Such as composition board from which most laminated worktops are made), it seems to sit on the surface and creates a finish not unlike the surface laminate.

Leaving the paint in the tin as dregs also causes it to thicken, considerably: and it becomes a sort of glutinous mass.

Works for me.

[:)]

[ngh]

All the above about the base board is correct. But having worked with tiled tops, you main problem will be the grout.

the only grout that should be used on worktops is a silicon based grout (sorry can't remember it technical name) This doesn't stain as other grouts including "waterproof" grouts do. Them main problems with tiled tops is not water penetration(although that is a problem) but grout discolouring.

The down side is it is very expensive.

nichthewood

[Théière]

[quote user="howittgites"]All the above about the base board is correct. But having worked with tiled tops, you main problem will be the grout. the only grout that should be used on worktops is a silicon based grout (sorry can't remember it technical name) This doesn't stain as other grouts including "waterproof" grouts do. Them main problems with tiled tops is not water penetration(although that is a problem) but grout discolouring. The down side is it is very expensive. nichthewood[/quote]

There are epoxy grouts that must be used for commercial premises in the UK, very tricky to use but an easier to use alternative from Mapei does exist, Kerapoxy which cleans up with water.

[Araucaria]

[quote user="Théière"]

[quote user="howittgites"]All the above about the base board is correct. But having worked with tiled tops, you main problem will be the grout. the only grout that should be used on worktops is a silicon based grout (sorry can't remember it technical name) This doesn't stain as other grouts including "waterproof" grouts do. Them main problems with tiled tops is not water penetration(although that is a problem) but grout discolouring. The down side is it is very expensive. nichthewood[/quote]

There are epoxy grouts that must be used for commercial premises in the UK, very tricky to use but an easier to use alternative from Mapei does exist, Kerapoxy which cleans up with water.

[/quote]

Teapot: thanks again. I'll see if I can find this (e)poxy stuff in France. The grout I've used on the bathroom floor says it is waterproof, and possibly it is (it's concrete underneath, so it won't matter a lot if it isn't), but you are right about staining. If I can't find the Mapei product I wonder whether it might be an idea instead to use a grey grout - the tiles are not going to be white ones, and the inevitable staining will show less.

[just john]

Rather than tiles and grout, why not use the viny wall/floor coverings used in Wetroom in commercial applications?  tarkett wall/floor-covering

[Jo]

I am currently replacing the tiled worktops in our kitchen as I am not convinced that I can get them properly clean, while not being a slob neither am I obsessive about cleaning but I am really not happy preparing food on a tiled surface[+o(]

[Théière]

That's quite sad Jo, a dilute solution of bleach left on for a minute will kill most bacteria harmful to humans and a fair few virus's. Tiled surfaces are used because they are easy to clean. If you don't like bleach then use a steamer.

[Jo]

Unfortunately these are old ones I've inherited and it doesn't matter what I use,  I can't get rid of the sticky gunge that has settled in the grout lines! The ones on the wall are fine, but not the worktops.

[Opifex]

If you want more ideas you could look at  http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/ 

[cooperlola]

[quote user="Jo"]I am currently replacing the tiled worktops in our kitchen as I am not convinced that I can get them properly clean, while not being a slob neither am I obsessive about cleaning but I am really not happy preparing food on a tiled surface[+o(]
[/quote]Quite, Jo - this was my point earlier in the thread.  I wouldn't have them anywhere where food might be prepared either.  I had a client with a worktop like this and used to spend hours with an old toothbrush and a gallon or so of bleach but never felt that the grout bits were clean enough and when I went back the following week I invariably found I could scrape another bucketload of gungey old food out of the cracks.[+o(]

[Théière]

Quite so Jo & RH- that was my point earlier in the thread. Rake out the old grout and replace with epoxy or kerapoxy, that is the only grout allowed in UK commercial kitchen food preparation areas that are tiled [:)]

[Araucaria]

[quote user="Opifex"]

If you want more ideas you could look at  http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/ 

[/quote]

Thanks for the link.

I'm grateful for all the helpful replies but I should say I'm not worried about hygeine issues connected with food preparation as it's a room with a washing machine and sink, not a kitchen.

[cooperlola]

It just seems like an awful lot of work to produce something which you could avoid altogether by using a smoothe surface, Teapot.  But I take your point.

[Théière]

[quote user="cooperlola"]It just seems like an awful lot of work to produce something which you could avoid altogether by using a smoothe surface, Teapot.  But I take your point.[/quote]

Agreed, most commercial kitchens use ordinary stainless steel worktops but the hotel architect/designer specified a tiled one so we had to obey. Using epoxy grout is tricky as you daren't float it in like conventional grout you must keep the mess to a min as it goes off so fast and it's just like Araldite to try and remove, the Mapei version was easier.

How much do people pay for granite, either solid or over the top of boards?

[cooperlola]

[quote user="Théière"]

How much do people pay for granite?

[/quote]A few inches? [Www]

[Araucaria]

On the tilers forum the received wisdom is not to tile on chipboard: rather they suggest using thin (6mm) sheets of cement board. This is something I've never used.

I've found it on google - an example is this stuff, and the description certainly look right - but does anyone know what cement board is called here in France?

[Théière]

It is allegedly available in France, time to telephone.

http://www.jameshardie.fr/pdf/installation/HardieBacker_Installation.pdf

Personally I would still go for the Wedi or Marmox as they are 99.9% waterproof (only absorbs water where you cut it. There is some comment on whether Hardibaker actually does absorb some water and has caused some tiling failures.