BIG MAC

Pretty much standard procedure these days the use of cabled plastic pipe where not visible (Advantage no concealed joins except where it goes from plastic to copper for aesthetics) I am no fan of  speedfit type systems but theres little denying they do the job, they just look cack.

Cheers Sharkie do you know whether this applies to family and friends on a mission for a couple of weeks?

Strangely I can't see much romanesque influence at all. It looks very French to me particulary the lattice vaulting.

Begging to differ, PTFE Tape is an ideal way of creating a seal without over tightening a joint wound around a brass (Hard) olive, I wouldn't bother with cheap copper or plastic? olives quite how you would get plastic to bite the tube thats it's being compressed onto is interesting right enough. PTFE  tape allows to take up minor deviations between olive and seat and helps prevent the uninitiated overdoing things (what it actually does is form a ring of more plastic material between olive and seat). Water Hawk, Bos white or similar used in conjunction with hemp is ideal for tapered threads don't use it in conjunction with PTFE tape though!. Soft soldering a compression joint is an excercise in futility Le plombier is quite right. More as likely if you have seated the compression ring (Olive) correctly you will simply need to isolate, drain down and wind off the back nuts pull back the tube slightly to permit an application of pipe jointing compound ie. water hawk (Suitable for potable systems) then make up the joint again supporting the joint body with grips if needs be to allow the back nut to be tightened correctly.  Tres facile  

You could try, Excavate to 300mm install edgings if you are having them (Treated wood attached to pegs driven in outside works ok or pin kerbs lais in lean mix concrete)  then two 100 mm layers of MOT Type 1, scalpings or equivalent well rolled or compacted with a wacker plate (Gentle spraying with water will keep the dust down in dry weather)  Blind with 25 to 30mm builders sand followed by geotextile membrane then your gravel to top up.

On the other hand..maybe someone with a bit of imagination and a passion for the building could approach the powers that be and point out that there is a moral duty to the future to at least save this from further decay. That is a fine quality building and the only thing that saddens me is the work that most would offer up to it in restoration would likely be a poor bedfellow compared to the craft already there. Dignified ruin -vs- toshed up folly..Difficult call. I would guess the only way apart from lottery win and a superb eye for detail is to hope the French think it sufficiently important to buy it for the nation and then begin the labour of love to bring the building back. French craftsmen even in this day and age can produce magnificent work...they still need to pay the bills though. Thanks for sharing your dream with us though...it's a joy to behold.

Tyvek if you can get it I guess the Bricolage stuff will be similar....gone are the days of sarking felt I guess

We specify aluminised primer on hardwood framing as a matter of course for longevity. In other words some metal primers are fine for wood but can be expensive.

Why seal at all unless the floor is friable if its PVC tiles. If its ceramic tiles then PVA should be fine. The idea of the PVA is not to provide a membrane, the floor should have that already or be moisure resist  concrete as is the French way. The PVA  is there to reduce suction on the adhesive from the substrate and allow even drying forming the best possible bed...nuffink to do with waterproofing at all. If the slab is suceptible to damp I have used Bituthene below tiles before now to good effect.

JOS® System The patented JOS® cleaning process gives a new dimension in cleaning technology doing no harm to the environment because it is chemical free.The formula:Low pressure - rotational vortex For the safe removal of carbon pollutants from: Stone, brick, terracotta, ceramic tiles, glass, concrete and many other materials. Also oxidation/sulphuration products from Bronze, Brass, Copper, Anodised Aluminium etc.Cleaning of Facades Chemical Free Works Gently and effectively A mixture of low air pressure, very little water (1.5 to 10 gallons per hour ) and a fine inert safe abrasive powder is developed into a rotating vortex. When directed onto a surface to be cleaned, this swirling vortex gently, yet effectively removes unwanted matter such as carbon, stubborn dirt, scale, graffiti and certain paints, from many types of materials including stone, brick, metals - even wood and plaster. JOS is a uniquely efficient and gentle cleaning system as the substrate is left undamaged DOFF® System The DOFF® system complements the JOS® system and is the natural answer to the removal of surface coatings such as bitumen, oil, grease and many other disfiguring materials which have become bonded to masonry and other substrates. A unique combination of heat and pressure is used to cut through and remove unwanted matter without eroding the underlying surface using specialised equipment which is fully adaptable to suit the conditions.

http://www.yorkshirefittings.co.uk/prod/products_brand.aspx?FolderID=101&SubFolderID=256   Kuterlite maybe

Interesting one this what are the rules on remotely stored bottles being used to feed a combustion appliance in a cave? I am contemplating converting our Cave into a Kitchen as it has three doorways one external, two internal  a window  etc. however the work surfaces will be approximately level with the ground outside therefore the floor considerably lower. I can always use electric however I am wondering whether there may be more general rules regarding siting of kitchens of which I am unaware. The intention was to ensure the ceiling (The underfloor to a bedroom) is double boarded with staggered joints and equipped with hard wired smoke and fire detection.    

compression is fine just make sure that you lock the olives to the pipe? righty tighty then a tweak. I use PTFE tape these days to wrap the olives rather than BOSS white or water hawk. Due to cost I would only use compression fittings in areas where heat could damage surroundings I prefer to use end feed.

I am intrigued why when the Devis sews up the contract sum fairly effectively it doesn't nail down the programme. being able to stipulate completiondates and apply LADs would be handy

Plumber was reasonable for everything else?...I am a plumber by trade and I think that rather than trying to fleece you he may missunderstand what you are asking for. I would ask him for a schedule detailing all he will do for the money maybe there are norme compliance issues that we don't know about. Ie maybe he would be required to change the tank or install a pressure vessel...If the guy is fair and honest elsewhere and you have a good relationship I would talk to him first..maybe he has miscalculated even. My glass is half full on this one at the mo...Bon chance

Page 58 on for fault finding, hope this helps. http://www.viessmann.co.uk/downloads/Vitodens100Compact-Service.pdf I would guess that perhaps the heating system needs made up to the correct pressure and vented check any AAVs and vent from them also.

Tony, What's the week long course you mention and do you think it will figure in me and my brothers and a couple of  mates going down to spend three weeks replacing my roof prior to getting a French artisan to fibro tile them? No money changing hands at all except for the French Guy

I would try different sockets possible a bad connection in the outlet or if using an extension lead check it out

if there was glass in the window frame then there wouldnt be any gaps....Window is the glass...hence window frame surrounds it....pedants corner anyone? lol

I intend to do a conversion to my barn which is in every respect wheelchair friendly I hope this way to create a flexible space with a very specific appeal. Not a money mmaking venture so much as its a good way to get people who I hope wont trash the place and subsidise my bills a bit. I was interested at the quoted rates for new build...not that different to Blighty which is surprising.

You can get non slip adhesive strips which may be suitable from a Chandlers..they use them on yacht decks available in quite a few colours albeit I guess browm or black would be best for your scheme.

I am doing my own spec having drawings done and translated here then I shall get a French Architect to review and adjust them. I have electrical and heating schemes well advanced however I suspect the normes will require a few tweaks. I was speaking to somebody the other day who had calculated the 6% of project cost that they had paid a French Architect to project manage was money very well spent and that they suspected that they had saved well in excess of the cost.

I bought three roof windows Ariel I think is the make but looking on the net I couldn't find a link so maybe the memory is a bit iffy...however these windows not bad for the money. I live in Portsmouth but travelled to Newton Abbot to buy them in Trago Mills 2x 780 x980 windows and 1 x 640 x 980  complete with flashing kits £513.42 worth the journey I thought.

We are installing an old Quebb stove with back boiler we reckon its output is about 16kw at full chat we are putting a slab in the hanger where it is going so likely will put an underfloor matrix in along with a dhw indirect cylinder once I find a suitable mains pressure one with immersion that we can allow to run off peak. We will have stand by electric heating also. We will make a real effort to insulate the place and get good passive ventilation I suspect this is the secret to being toastie. I am also looking at BMS (Building management systems) I like the idea of dialing in while I am over here and switching on the electric heating if need be  

Top bodge....when using foam to span a gap thats too large put some chicken mesh in first