brian-limousin<P><IMG src="http:forums.livingfrance.comimagesline.gif"><BR>brian-limousin<P><P>When you are in a hole - stop digging<BR><A class=authorlink href="http:" target=_blank><A><BR><P>

We are moving over to the Limousin in 3 weeks time, and used et brokers (who for a £30 flat fee, send out your details to hundreds of removal companies) We were very pleased with the result, obtaining two quotes of £1,600 to move 25 cubic metres of furniture etc.   Hope this helps

A general "standard" cost in the uk is £20-£25 per sq. m., so I wouldn't expect to pay much more than that. Costs will, however, vary - depending on size of tile (eg. big 'uns are quicker to lay, and need less grouting), and type of tile. (eg. handmades and mosaics can be b*****s to cut). Also the quantity to be laid will have an influence on price - if it's only a few metres, you will pay proportionally more. Hope this helps

Thanks for your replies, it would seem that there are not that many courses around, but here is a list of those that I have since found, including those recommended above. La Coiroux - Aubazine La Jonchere - Gouzon (Montgrenier) St Lazare - Limoges La Porcelaine - Limoges (Panazol) - Nearest for me! St Junien Golf du Chamnet (Peyrelevade) Pouligny Neuvic There are also a couple more 9 hole courses, but I've seen the one near Bougenoeuf, which looked a bit ropey, so I've discounted these.

You are quite right, Di - and I hold my head in shame.  The immediate solution to problems/remedies in the uk is a proprietry product.  I should know enough about France by now to realise that there is normally a natural or alternative method or material available.  I have administered my own slapped wrist.

On the channel 4 web site, they recommend oven cleaner http://www.channel4.com/life/microsites/H/how_clean_is_your_house/grime-files/watchams/tips.html

Can anyone please tell me from their experiences what the golf courses are like in Limousin?  At the moment I'm twiddling my thumbs here in the uk, until the house is sold and we move over for good, and would love to play when we get there.  Additionally, any idea about joining fees, waiting lists etc? Thanks in advance. Brian

You might find that OSB (oriented strand board), will do the job better and cheaper.  Available in a variety of thicknesses, from the majority of general suppliers, is also available in T & G panels. Brian

An excellent summary, which now makes the basic differences very clear. Thanks.

Not knowing much about woodburning stoves, I researched a bit on the net, and found many sites giving lots of info., but these in particular appear to give lots of good technical and general information.  http://www.euroheat.co.uk/Downloads/Installation_Guides.htm http://www.firesonline.com/acatalog/Villager_AHI_Wood_Stove.html http://www.backwoodsman-stoves.co.uk/ As winters in Limousin are a "bit on the nippy side", I want to ensure that we keep cosy, so need to do a bit more reseach yet. Also thinking about a separate fire in one of the attached barns just for hot water supply in the summer, we've got plenty of wood on our land, so it seems a shame to pay for electricity for water heating in the summer, when we have free fuel available.

Following on from many previous posts, and my own needs, would it be possible/a good idea, if we could establish a directory of where to find and buy things, more of a dictionary of items with a supplier and prices.  It could possibly be as an additional category in FAQ's.  The possibility may also be there for discounts to be arranged for Living France members, depending on volume etc. It's just a thought, may be pants, but your opinions would be welcome.   Brian

This company: http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/index.html Have a good website, and will deliver to Europe. Prices seem ok too. Brian

Hi Chris, I get some (not all) of oils etc direct from Rustins, as they stock most items. There is a good (retail) price list on the web site for comparison.  http://www.rustins.co.uk/ I guess, like me, you have spent years in the uk sourcing trade suppliers, both for range and price, and I think that this will be one of the difficulties initially in France, combined with an inadequate grasp of the language. I intend to spend some time visiting the industrial areas in Limoges (with a good French speaking friend) to find some trade suppliers, hopefully in time, I can build up a directory that can be shared around the "English" artisans. Fortunately, suppliers like Hafele and Hittech have French divisions, so architectural ironmongery and fittings shouldn't be a problem.  

Extracted this info. These will make big 'oles in yer wood. GREAT CAPRICORN BEETLE —The larva of this beetle spends the greater part of 3 years in­side an oak tree. When fully grown it is 2 1/2 inches [6.35 cm] long and 5/8 inch (1.59 cm] wide. Blind, weak, almost naked, and completely defenseless, the little worm burrows here and there in the oak. Year after year passes, yet that little fellow always knows never to go near the outer part where woodpeckers could get it. But it has no special sense organs to tell it anything. Led by chance alone, it would be sure to chew its way close to and probably through the outer wood, but this never happens. It always carefully avoids the woodpecker zone. Then the time comes for the larva to metamorphose, and now for the first time it crawls to but a short distance from the outer surface of the oak. Why does it do this, for a woodpecker might now get it? The blind, mindless worm is soon to change into a beetle, and that beetle will not be able to eat its way through hard wood as the worm can. So the worm comes close to the surface, digs a hole to the surface, makes a chalky doorway, turns around goes inward a fraction of an inch, and then turns around again and faces outward toward the bark, and undergoes the final change. It turns around and faces outward, but why does it do that? As a soft worm, it can easily change directions in its tunnels, but the beetle will not be able to do so. If it faced inward, the beetle would die. But the worm never makes a mistake. It always faces outward before changing into a beetle. When the beetle emerges, it simply crawls straight out,. tears out the chalky doorway, and emerges from the oak.  

I agree entirely wiith what Chris says, whatever any of your tradesmen may say, if you have ANY type of insect or animal that bores, eats, gnaws or infests your timber, take steps to eradicate them asap - they are not doing any good whatsoever.  As yet, I have little direct knowledge of insects, and their ways in France, but from previous experience elsewhere, they do a lot of damage if untreated.  Not trying to talk down to anyone, or give "expert" advice, but prevention is better (and far, far, cheaper) than cure. Brian

Paul, No problem - woodyard is midway between Domps and Chamberet (D30 from Eymoutiers), on the left. Sorry can't remember the name offhand, but will check when I return next month.  I had the oak, and a fair bit of softwood delivered, and had the load made up with rolls of offcut oak, which were about 10 euros each - and about 2metres in diameter, 2-3 metres in length; some of this is big enough and good enough for garden furniture etc.  If you don't mind cutting it yourself, it makes cheap firewood too. I have visited several sawmills in the area, but these were far and away the cheapest, also ask to see their "seconds" as there are some real bargains hidden away there.  They are also going to plank up a couple of oak trees from our land, which after seasoning, I will machine up to eventually make new floors for the barn. Hope this helps, Brian

I buy LOTS of wood in the uk - and buying in France is MUCH cheaper.  If you are loooking for any decent quantity, it is worthwhile going to a local sawmill.  In Limousin, there are numerous mills, and in equivalent uk price terms, in general I have found it to be 30% cheaper - local hardwoods even cheaper.  I am seriously looking at exporting some back to uk, which will help enormously with contributing to our moving costs.  For instance, I bought enough oak to make 2 sets of cut string staircases for our house for about £400 - admitedly this was in plank form, as I will plane and machine it up myself, and turn all the bannisters, but this represents half the price that I would have paid in the uk.  I also picked up some seconds of pre-machined chestnut parquet at 2 euros per sq. m. at the same time.

CLS (or Canadian Lumber Standard) is widely available from timber merchants and good DIY outlets everywhere; CLS timber, for those who don't know, has a pencil radii to each corner on it's length, and is normally fine sawn. Scant (or scantling, as is the more common term in uk) simply means square sawn timber. To be honest, I would rarely use CLS for studwork, prefering the much cheaper rough sawn construction graded softwood, unless a customer specifically requested CLS.

I will check with our neighbours, if you like, who have an MG and a couple of Triumphs.  They are French, so will presumably know what's what.  I also want to register my TVR over there too, which should not be a problem, as I am aware of about 6 that are registered.  I won't be back over (near Eymoutiers/Limoges) for a few weeks, but if you can hang on for a bit longer, I'll try to find out more.   Brian

I'm thinking of just putting "The mad Englishman" on the postbox, as I'm fairly sure that will be more recognised than my actual name.

Must admit that Autocad is god!!  The ability to make changes, and the ability to layer drawings saves HOURS.  I must say, though, that it is nice now and again to produce hand drawings and visuals, and some clients do prefer the "hand drawn" look.  The main benefit that I find with autocad, is that it takes the effort out of the actual drawing, and allows more time and thought available for designing.

185mm (or 184mm standard) blades with a 20mm bore are a standard size - they do not have to be specifically for your manufacturer.  A variety of tooth pitches should be available, ranging from 16t to about 58t, depending on what you want to cut, and finish required.  It is always a good idea to have a couple of different pitch blades, so you can "rough cut" for framing, and use a fine tooth for mitreing and finished work. A 40t blade is probably the best for general use.   Hope this helps. Brian

Difficult to give a 'proper' guide price, but the last staircase I made for our place cost me a little over 200 euros for the oak, in planks, which I machined to suit.  It was, however, a cut string style, with turned spindles and detailing on the cut string brackets and special newels, which obviously added to the complexity.  It took me a week (ish) to manufacture, including turning the spindles, so as a costed project would be in the region of 800-900 euros. Plus fitting, of course. Hope this helps.

There definitely is a need for builders etc. in the area.  Although I have not moved over permanently yet (due to relocate later this year), I already have several projects lined up for people in the area - English AND French.  Yet to finalise proper registration, and will not do any work until it is fully sorted.  The potential work has come from the staicases, flooring and woodturning that I have produced so far in the initial renovation of our place, but I believe that there is scope to have as much work as you want, obviously assuming your price, quality and reliability are good. The availability (and price) of timber in this area is fantastic, although the quality varies considerably, but I intend to buy a few selected trees, plank them up and season them so that I can produce my own furniture etc.  Really loking forward to work and play full time.

This link should give most of the technical and practical ifo. for lime etc.   http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/cement/cement.htm   Hope it is of use.   Brian

Here are two sites showing current (and potential) camera sites, that may be of interest   http://www1.securiteroutiere.gouv.fr/data/radars/index.html http://www.radarsfixes.com/c_carte.asp?carte=NO