f1steveuk

As the chap that started the thread on the other thermal cut out switch, I thought I'd put in my five cents!!! I took the part number off the offending item, a tiny bi-metal switch in essence, and Googled it. Eventually I found a company that was willing to sell me a couple, 1 (ONE!!!!) Euro each! The whole pump had cost 690 Euros, and the thermal switch was the only thing wrong. I casually mentioned that I might experiment with having the old pump filter the pool, as well as around a 40 metre length of black hose, to see if it would work as a heating system, to which I was sent six free samples, from China. If there's a number on it, or even if there isn't, someone somewhere HAS to make the things, it's just finding them, but it's worth the effort!!

A friend of mine brought in the UK, LHD, even a French make, and the got the company in the UK to French reg' the vehicle, for not a lot of money (an extra £1200 I think), he then flew over, and booked a very cheap "away day" crossing, which was way less than a single fare, and drove it home to Antibes!

That's a nasty one, I saved myself the aggravation and reformatted my hard drive and deleted all my files before the virus could.........................[;-)]

When asked to book my helmets into the hold, I usually just say yep, once you've signed to say that once you have buggered up £1000 worth of helmet, you'll replace it ASAP, and they have always let me on with it, having said that, only been asked to check it into the hold once!!

I'm not a great fan or cruisers as a rule, but that is a nice mix of cruiser/muscle bike, enjoy!!

Normally it's the float that shuts off the fuel flow, unless the jets are held open by dirt in between the needle and it's seat. I'd have thought a strip down on a CLEAN sheet of pepper, and a good clean should really sort it. Petrol flow through a carb' can wear the inside quite a lot, but it would take a while in a little carb like that I'd have thought. Reminds of the time I used an air line to clean an Escort carb', and shot a valve several hundred feet!!!

I take it the float has no petrol in it? It's obvious the flow rate is way to high and doesn't sut off, so it has to be the float and/or the needle valve. Can you Google the engine/carb, and if it gives an exploded (not the best choice of words where petrol is concerned!!) post a link, and we can have a look.

I got my Belkin one for £3.99 of Ebay, works a treat all the way down through France (playing back Podcasts etc), very rarely get any cross frequencies. I would have thought with the very limited range there would be little reason for them to be illegal though!

Do you know, reading those last few posts, I bet we all watch Home Improvement, and think that there's nothing wrong with Tim's philosophy whatsoever!!

Two very good sites, both now bookmarked! http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/maurices-shop-quality-bargains__W0QQ_armrsZ1 This chap is very good as well, and reasonable, and he's shipped to a friend in France before now.

Wish I could tell you what spec' chain I got, but it was described to me as 'medium domestic use', I remember the first time I used it, suddenly it was easy to do!, Couldn't keep me indoors, and it made me wonder what a more "aggressive chain could do, though I suspect you would need a bit of "grunt" for anything too strong!!

Very well thanks GS, still bouncing along the bottom, but things have to improve, don't they?? My chum recommended a Carlton chain and bar, and increasing the bar from a 14inch to a 16. 16 was the longest he felt safe for my "Mac". Shorter the chain, the more work it had to do, a long chain holds speed better and "finds" the work easier, his philosophy being the longer the bar, the better, within reason!!! I think Carlton and Oregon are both Canadian, and they are apparently, the masters at producing chains, I haven't used a Oregon, but the Carlton, even two years down the road slices through wood, old or new, like the much heralded hot knife and butter, and only needs dressing (rather than sharpening, one or twice a year, although I have never ever run the chain through anything other than wood, never soil!!! Always use synthetic chain oil, always clean it off after use ( I can hear my mates voice nagging me about this, but as my better half thinks I have OCD, it's not a problem!!). Whats not to like? You mean Sthils??  The chain adjustment cam, a simple plastic device, not even a metal bush, in fact lots of plastic bits where I'd expect a few bits of metal. Fragile recoil starters, and on two I was staggered how dodgy the bar mounting was, and have seen a couple of twisted bars and one that was hanging out of the mountings, and on quite expensive models, it just made me wonder what the fuss was about!

What ho, how's things with you? I've been given a few chainsaws to fix and can't say I'm that impressed with Sthils at all. I was given a MacCulloch, not to repair, but to keep and use, and feared it was too small and possibly a bit "gutless". I contacted a friend of a friend whose job it is to sell and service such things, and asked what to replace it with, and he said, "why?, perfectly suitable for anything you've got, it's not the grunt in the engine, or th size, it's the chain that does 90% of the work. Make sure your using the right chain for what your doing, and keep it maintained". Even though MacCulloch is sometimes refered to as the "one season tool", mine, which was well used when I got it, is still going strong, and cutting down and logging some fairly serious trees, down mainly to spending a bit on a top qaulity, suited to the job chain (and matched bar), and a lot cheaper than a whole saw!!!

I brought one from BricoMarche, not a known make (not in the UK anyway) and it has done everything thrown at it, spares have been easy, and maintaining it easier still, and it was on offer at 150  Euros, when the exchange rate was good!!!! I have to say, I've repaired more Sthil's than some of the "cheap" makes!!

The answer to the question as seen in the subject line is twice the length from one end to the middle although I suspect that is of no help what so ever, sorry[Www]

Sounds like one of a couple of things, if it's not an auto choke, it sounds like the choke is left closed, meaning it's running to rich and flooding, either that or the jets in the carb are blocked, or there is an in line filter (or one on the tap inside the tank) blocked. If it's an auto choke, take a look at that, manual choke, is the linkage connected properly, and opening and closing correctly? If it's the jets, there should be a drain plug on the float bowl, and you may have to take the carb off, being very careful as there's a fair few small parts in there, it then needs a good clean. Check the fuel pipes for an in line filter, which might need cleaning out. If it's the one in the tank, you need to drain the tank. As a complete outside guess, some Hondas have a safety cut off, in case it tips over, but that is unlikely!

I was working on a documentary in the "States" once, and I went to put my stuff, in the boot!! "That's the trunk" I was told. That lead to a bit of research and Boot, UK, because when they first started putting luggage containers on cars (Edwardian cica 1910) they were mainly for your hunting/riding boots, not suit cases, these went on a rack on the roof. Trunk in the USA, as on stages coaches, trunks were strapped to the back of the coach. Glove box is obvious, but the days of string backed driving gloves are long gone!! In the states "fenders" as in to protect the wheels, why we have wings in the UK, who knows? Similarly it's a mystery why the Americans keep their engines under a hood!!!

http://www.headcaseurope.com/product.htm may work as a link, or cut and paste!!

I can't say what Ryanair would do, they are a law unto themselves. I have taken my race helmets on many many flights, in a proper helmet bag (fleece lined and padded) and refused to let them go in the hold, as say a Simpson, with a beadall lining can't be banged about. Never had a quible. There's something called a helmet shell, which is a semi-rigid helmet case (in fact I think they are sold under the name HeadCase) which apprently you could put a helmet in the hold, but I still wouldn't. Only time I couldn't get a helmet in the overhead locker, it went behind my legs for a two hour flight, and never caused any bother.

Sorted. The digi signal in the set top box had turned off, something the on board WiFi cars told the unit to do. This has now been reset. My "engineer" also said that Netgear routers are "pants", and choke the incoming band width, enough for the whole thing to fall over and dissconnect from the web. He's installed an in line booster, which has improved it no end. I just have to replicate this in both systems!!! But in summary, although WiFi and incoming internet ARE quite different, the former is fairly reliant on the latter to work, to a degree! Thanks for the input

You'd think that wouldn't you, but different laptops, and different wi fi cards one is an Athero 1006, and the other a 5007. Lap tops same make, different models, modems the same, wifi routers the same.

Same set up in the UK and France, the reason being I am testing it because I was getting the same problem in France, if that makes sense!

Lap Top which has been connected directly, which also has fluctuating download as previously stated

Right, the internet is fed into the house via our tv digibox, which is cable. From the digi box there is a data cable to the modem. From the modem a cable goes to the wifi sender. If you remove all the "gubbins" and plug a tester (not mine, one borrowed from an IT dept) it gives you an accurate reading of just what is coming down the "wire". When everything is plugged in and working, and online speed tester matches the readings from the "line tester". When I connect to the internet via the built in WiFi card to the WiFi sender, the signal strength, even when in the same room, and within 10ft of each other varies between 90 and 30%, this is shown on a Vista sidebar "gadget". Me? I am begining to suspect in built in WiFi card, a Atheros ar5007eg, which when I tried to download the latest drivers now tells me it's a 5006x!!!

Cheers chaps. My contract says 10MB, it's what we pay to recieve and was part of a package. We have a cable modem connected to a Netgear WiFi router, and on occaisions even in the same room and less than 10 feet away, my lap top tells me I am getting WiFi at 50% !!!! Using an on line broadband speed test, and using a plug in broadband tester (connected to the cable before the modem) the download rate varies wildly between 8MB and 0.75, and I have witnessed the WiFi stop working when the rate drops, hence my question. Never had this problem with two bean cans and string.....................