Not the Blair Journey

[Gardengirl]

Like the rest of us, I expect you're after more about those ''sweet'' smells along the route, Cathy! [:)]

Following Sweet's latest post about acquiring knickers in such an amazing-sounding shop, Gem has done O Cebreiro, which was very difficult and has arrived in Galicia, where she met heavy rain. Some parts have brought on a reflective mood, such as the descent to Molinaseca from El Acebo (I'm sure she'll be along, so just putting a few words here to keep you going!).

She says she now has 65km left to Santiago, 2 solid days of walking, she says. It's incredible to think she's steaming along so fast - just a short while ago she was talking about arriving around the 8th/9th, so has made even greater progress than thought!

There isn't a suitable smiley to insert, as I sit here in the early hours after reading Gem's latest message. The whole project seemed amazing when they talked about it on the forum over the months, but just reading about the reality makes me even more impressed than I could have thought. It's talked about as a life-changing undertaking, but before reading their accounts it just seemed 'merely' daunting. What an experience to take with them in life!  

 

[mint]

Well, here I am just short of Ponferrada (or Ironbridge, of course!)

Hard day´s walk up to the highest point on the Camino Frances and then a stony and rough descent.  I don´t do as much as Gem but it was about 25 or 26 km today, I suppose.

You see, I WOULD stop to take notes and write in my book and clean my teeth and cut my toe nails en route!

Oh, nevermind, I quite enjoy dawdling though I am now missing home comforts, my darling OH and my wonderful little dog!  Please do NOT ask me whether all that´s in the right order because I shall refuse to answer!

[Gemonimo]

Arrived this am... Went to the Mass, kissed the apostle, made a train reservation for tomorrow morning (12hours Santiago to Hendaye but at least I´ll see where I´ve been walking). Emotional goodbyes to some wonderful companions de route.Too tired to post more but when I'm home I'll do a little better.

Sweets, keep going! You are doing just great but take care in the rain.

[Gardengirl]

Gem, that's marvellous! Well done; what an emotional time it must have been! [:D]

 

[5-element]

Coooooeyyyy!!!! That is just fantastic - many heartfelt congratulations Gem. I can't begin to imagine what it must feel like, having done it!!!!

I hope it is, was, will have been, a truly life-changing experience for you.[:D]

[Patf]

Fantastic Gem - well done. And hoping you can post the same soon, SW17.

[Catalpa]

Congratulations! What an achievement. [:D]

[Salty Sam]

Very well done.

Enjoy the train ride :-).

[just john]

Have missed the t'internet for the last month, but have just read this and it reminded me of the Laurie Lee book, 'As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning'. I must congratulate 'Monimo and Sweet, and look forward to hearing from S17 again. I thought perhaps there was some divine intervention with the loss of Sweets drawers, surely that was to aid peeing on your blisters?, doesn't it toughen your feet up? Best of all was the humanity of a regular tot of Brandy and I would be delighted to supply you with same next time we meet  :-)

 

[woolybanana]

Respect, well done, now for a good relaxing holiday, I hope.

[mint]

Gem, how fantastic!  And you are now sleeping the sleep of the saved in your own beautiful bedroom!  Very well done!

Every morning, when I set out, I think of you and how you would have walked the same route before me.  I am glad you mentioned the train as I am not at all sure how the devil I get back home!

Yesterday was truly the walk from hell.  Fortunately, I found a Canadian woman to walk with (the first time I have walked more than an hour or so with another person because no one else walks as slowly as I do) and we kept each other´s spirits up the whole 8 hours we were in the rain.

When we got to the albergue at Cacabelos, it was in a churchyard with cubicles constructed so that each holds 2 beds with a narrow table in between.  The loo and shower block was in the middle of the row of about 30 cubicles and to go and use the "facilities" you have to open your door and walk outside to get to them!

As we were like a pair of drowned rats and exhausted to boot, we were just glad to have found a bed each!  There was nowhere to wash or dry clothes and indeed only tepid showers for the humans.  Nothing daunted, we went out for dinner and this morning we bundled all our muddy and wet gear up and are now well installed in a nice, private albergue in Villafranca del Bierzo.

The proprietors took our boots to put them out to dry and relieved us of our clothing and bags etc and are even now washing and drying them for us.

I swear that you need hellish days like yesterday to enable you to enjoy the blessings of a day like today.

At Ponferrada, we went around the most fantastic exhibition of illuminated scripts (only facsimilies, of course) housed in the Knights Templar´s building which is being restored in stages.  I hadn´t realised how many Books of Hours there were and how different they were, one from the other.

JJ, I still have a postcard for you which I haven´t posted as I didn´t think you were back at Weymouth yet.  And you bet, I shall expect the best VSOP cognac when we meet!

[cooperlola]

[quote user="sweet 17"]

I am not at all sure how the devil I get back home!

[/quote]I am very tempted to come and pick you up, SW17. Reading your reports every day is making my feet itch.   My o/h thinks that I should!

 

Well done Gem for getting there.  Pity the two of you got split up.

[mint]

Hi, Coops

Thank you anyway but I wouldn´t want you to.  Too far and too much of a hassle. 

It was a very good job that Gem and I got split up because, as you see, she walks a lot faster than I do.  And, doing the Camino on your own is to be recommended.  You then set your own pace, stopping and starting when you want.

I shall always be grateful to Gem that she got me here in the first place.  Without her help and encouragement, I doubt that I shall have contemplated this journey.  However, being on my own has been crucial.  I can´t explain on here but the experiences that I have had could not have happened had I not been totally alone.

It´s been scary and worrying at times but also exhilarating and fantastic...............and in lots of ways it´s true that you never walk alone!

 

[pachapapa]

I am sure your parting of the ways will have in fact made you each stronger, more resourceful and clarified your personal philosophy of life as a pilgrim.

Too many Brits and Hey Ho a descent to a Chaucer's Millers Tale Scenario.[:)]

[Gemonimo]

Sweets, I'm so glad you got out of Cacabelos in one piece.  A lovely German girl I have been walking with was attacked in the vines as she left the village but only reported it at her next stop which was La Faba.  Apparently she wasn't the only person to have been attacked (it was more of a sexual attack) as we were told of a Canadian lady who had also been approached.  Let's hope the local Guardia Civil have caught the guy.

Each stop is a new and fabulous experience and each encounter enriching.  I arrived inSantiago with an Australian lady (very devout) and Iris, the German girl (who thinks she met you, Sweets, in Pamplona). Lovely people and it was altogether rather emotional saying goodbye. We also remet the lovely Dutch man who had fallen hopelessly in love with a french lady and was leaving notes to her on branches of trees for her to read as she made her way towards Santiago.  They met up and are now 'officially' and item!!! Aaahhh.

Sweets, I don't know what time you aim to arrive in Santiago, but if you can get to Mongte de Gozo the night before, you will only have an hour of walking into Santiago and the possibility of a bed for the night. Arriving late in the afternoon reduces the possibilities enormously. I had been able to stick to my budget of €20/day up to Santiago and then it all went to pot as the Albergues are very expensive and I ended up paying €30 for a room in a hostal (clean and equipped) but not my normal price range. 

At the Pilgrims Office where you get your certificate, you can get a 20percent reduction coupon for the train ride back to Hendaye - total price€39 I think.  However, the train journey start at9.25amandfinishes (if you are lucky) at 8.40pm that evening.  It was a long, long, loooong journey and there were no connections on to Bdx, thus blowing my budget completely when I had to spring for a hotel at €79 in Hendaye. I walked to the station from the hotel and then another 2 and a half hour train ride to Bdx where my son and heir met me.

I'm thinking of you every step of the way, Sweets and agree entirely that the Camino is a journey best made alone. My objective has been achieved - my little church here will have a stained glass window (with a St. Jacques shell design) thanks to my sponsors; I've sort of put my life in order and now I move forward with new people to meet, people to help and people to love. So, my little catalyst, keep walking and we'll get together when our feet have recovered. 

[cooperlola]

[quote user="sweet 17"]

.  Too far and too much of a hassle.  [/quote]Driving is never a hassle to me, only ever fun!  The idea of getting in a car and setting off across France and Spain is very tempting.  In fact it's a hospital appointment on Tuesday which is the only thing stopping me leaving right this minute!  I don't get any of the spiritual stuff but I do understand the pull of the road.

Thelma and Louise next time then, SW17![:)]

[mint]

Sure thing, Coops................you do the driving and it will be fab in your new car.

Gem, I´m looking forward to the debriefing session.

Can´t go on too long as running out of money.

Today I´m in Sarria so should be on the home stretch this week.

Think I´ll see if there is a coach.

Got here early today to "regroup", that is wash and dry clothes so that I can sleep in other than mud-spattered outfit that hadn´t been changed in 2 days.

More bedbug bites but not so bad as last time so must be getting used to the little blighters.

Can´t understand why people want to repeat the Camino experience. For me, it´s once in a lifetime and only if you can´t get out of it!

Thrilled to hear about your window! Very well done.

Gotta go, no more money!!!!!!!!!

[Kitty]

Sweets - I come onto the Forum every day to see how you are and follow your route.  Where are you now?

At least you have some good weather this week.

[Gardengirl]

Cathy, I'm also wondering on and off each day how things are going. It was like having two little chicks; one is now safely hatched(!), and just one to safely come to port - to mix metaphors! [:D]

[cooperlola]

Yes, Sweets, just a couple of words would be good.  I'm more worried since Gem posted about the attacks along the route.  Just let us know you're OK or I will get in the car.....[Www]

[Gemonimo]

Coops, don't worry about the attacks.  I think it was a one (actually, two) off and probably perpetrated by an itinerant worker in the vines.  When Sweets last posted she was in Sarria on the home leg and she may well hold off posting until she has arrived.  I know the last hundred kilos I was pretty much single minded about getting to Santiago and posting was actually secondary to that goal.  Sweets is a remarkable person, full of courage and I know she will be posting when the moment presents itself.  My guess is that we'll be opening the champagne before the end of the week!

[Gardengirl]

You certainly seemed to have the wind in your sails towards the end Gem!

I shall very much look forward to opening that champagne! Are you feeling refreshed now Gem? And hope you don't mind being called a chick!  [:D]

[Gemonimo]

GG A few nights in my own bed, not having to share showering facilities with millions of people has certainly refreshed me.  Having said that I'd never do the Camino again, I really miss it!!!!

[mint]

Well, I am in Melide.  Don´t like to post if there are no new posts from other people because I don´t want to hog space or indeed to assume that anyone is the least bit interested in where I am!

It´s been difficult getting bed space in the last week.  The Spanish people are on holiday en mass (what with it being their national day yesterday, school holidays, etc)

Certainly, since Galicia, there are hundreds of people on the Camino who are walking almost unencumbered by rucksacks, etc and are taking taxis all over the place.  Then, they get to albergues early and secure all the bed spaces.

I met a Danish chap who was quite angry, having walked about 30 km with a bad leg and was told to walk on for a bed.  He was annoyed because he felt that as a "proper" pilgrim, he should have had priority and that not everyone should be given beds just because they ask!

I don´t know what to think of all this.  I suppose anyone who can convince the hospitaleros that they have walked ought to be given a bed.  But then, not all hospitaleros go into whether someone has genuinely walked.  After all, they just want to fill the beds and then go off to fill their own stomachs.

Certainly, I busted a gut to get here today before 3.00 and the beds in the municipal place were all gone and I am stuck with a private albergue (which would be fine if it wasn´t overpriced and none too clean).

Oh well, I´m only about 2 or 3 days walk now to Santiago and I must admit that my body is now getting very tired and I shall be very glad to finish.

a bientot!

[Patf]

Enjoy the last stretch, SW17 [:)] Hoping it will go faster as it's the end.

I've been looking back in this thread, and it seems you started about 4th Sept., so that's over 5 weeks up to today!

Don't know how you did it - makes me tired just to think about it.