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Not the Blair Journey


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Hola everybody

Sorry, no punctuation as this Spanish keyboard is something else.  Special hola to my dear Gem and apologies for being out of touch.  Phone has run out of charge and money and this is the first place where I have been able to get my hands on internet.  Mind you, I think the keyboard is covered in so much grime it s hard to get the keys to work.  Therefore this is a labour of love if ever there is one.

Aaaargggghhhh  The feet are muchos baddos and I need to repair them everyday with Compeed.  Have spent so much money on Compeed that I reckon I should have bought their shares before starting.

Tonight, I am in Lorca and I expect you are way past Estella by now Gem.  Big climb to get here today but the young man running this place is vraiment sympa and has given me a very large Spanish whisky or brandy or whatever it is and I have had to request plenty of ice to dilute it exc. mark.

Enjoying myself hugely though I am not making much progress along la route.  But, who cares qu. mark.  Remember the poem Ithaca that I posted qu. mk.

Seen some breathtaking scenery and some wonderful churches.

For 5 e, yes, I am experiencing the "other journey" big time and very good it feels too.

Gengulphus, I don t know whether you are looking in but please be assured I think of you and how you started me on this Special Journey and say hola to Jo for me.  Tell her I am unable to email as I have totally forgotten my own password ex. mk.

To Suej, postcard on the way.  To GG, Wooly, Eric and the Usual Suspects, I am well and in very happy mood.  Have met some amazing people and find them totally inspirational ex mk

The rucksack is as punishing as any hairshirt but I suppose that one will get used to it as one does to most things.  Alas, without my dear, efficient Gem, I have now lost lots of "stuff" due to my own scatty ways and that includes all the knickers I have brought.  I suppose the lesson is that I look after my own possessions better or that knickers are a superfluous luxury.  Don t know which is the correct answer.  Must finish now as I am not sure how efficacious the Penicillin on the keyboard is ex. mk.

a bientot, mes amis ex mk

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[quote user="Catalpa"]You've lost ALL your knickers?!? [:-))]

Well, that's a bit less washing to be doing en route. You go (Compeed)Girl. [:D]

[/quote]

Yes, Catalpa ALL TWO pairs ex mk

But one pair was Falke and one pair was Odlo, so not exactly cheap. Sad icon.

Anyway, dined in solitary state tonight as no one else seemed to want to eat. Hard just to have une petite goute de vin when a whole jug of the stuff was put in front of me

However, got to think of the walk tomorrow ex mk

Do you think I should change my name to Compeed Girl qu mk.

Sounds as good as Pancake Queen IMHO

OK then. Will log on as and when I am able. Apologies to all the friends that I can t email and for these funny messages that look like old telegramme messages

I shall NEVER complain about French keyboards ever again.

Now must go and disinfect my hands in case I catch a big dose of whatever is clogging up the keys on here Woot
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Phew! Just worked out (finalement) what ex.mk is. At first I thought it must be something like excommunicated markolic or something.

Lovely to hear from you Sweet, sorry about the feet though - also sorry you and Gem had to part but hope you might get reunited? Sounds really like the experience of a lifetime you are going through. I think of you now every time I go on my extremely short walkettes.

As for losing ALL the knickers, it was only the 2 pairs, and if one of them was on as it might, then it must be only losing the one other pair, ssurely?

Here is hoping you are in better shape, feet and all, when you read this. Thanks for keeping us all posted, and bon courage!!!

 

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5-element, I added to the thread earlier to say that Sweet had problems with her feet and stayed behind, while Gem pushed on to meet up with a friend who was due to arrive; they also both ended up with foot problems and took a day out to help the feet and hoped that Sweet would catch up. Sweet's feet do sound bad, poor thing. [:(]

I can just imagine Sweet's belongings floating around the area - knickers included! At least her bag must be a bit lighter! They both sound cheerful, and the people around them and the scenery sound wonderful!  [:D]

I also took time to work out the hieroglyphics in Sweets' messages; I thought it must be something to which only people on the trail were privy (to coin a phrase)!

 

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[quote user="gardengirl "]

5-element, I added to the thread earlier to say that Sweet had problems with her feet and stayed behind, while Gem pushed on to meet up with a friend who was due to arrive; they also both ended up with foot problems and took a day out to help the feet and hoped that Sweet would catch up. Sweet's feet do sound bad, poor thing. [:(][/quote]

 

Thank you GG - it all became clear eventually, when I re-read the whole thread and realised that I'd missed an entire page!

This business with feet problems seems endemic for the Compost pilgrims, no matter how well prepared you have tried to be! I hope that both of them manage to grow  hooves so they can press on, and trample all over those mountains!

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News from Gem, who isn't hearing news from Sweet, so she's hoping you're just going along slowly.

She was due to be at Vianna tonight, where there's to be a fiesta. She's lost 3 toenails and has a blister, so is also using lots of Compeed. I think investing in shares in Compeed sounds a good idea!. But companions along the way are lovely, she's having a lovely time, despite steep hills and steep descents, experiencing pure pleasure.  [:D]

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[quote user="sweet 17"][quote user="Catalpa"]You've lost ALL your knickers?!? [:-))]

Well, that's a bit less washing to be doing en route. You go (Compeed)Girl. [:D]

[/quote]

Yes, Catalpa ALL TWO pairs ex mk

But one pair was Falke and one pair was Odlo, so not exactly cheap. Sad icon.

Anyway, dined in solitary state tonight as no one else seemed to want to eat. Hard just to have une petite goute de vin when a whole jug of the stuff was put in front of me

However, got to think of the walk tomorrow ex mk

Do you think I should change my name to Compeed Girl qu mk.

Sounds as good as Pancake Queen IMHO

OK then. Will log on as and when I am able. Apologies to all the friends that I can t email and for these funny messages that look like old telegramme messages

I shall NEVER complain about French keyboards ever again.

Now must go and disinfect my hands in case I catch a big dose of whatever is clogging up the keys on here Woot[/quote]

When I read your post, Sweets, I thought to myself: - before I got to the end:  'She's typing this on a French keyboard'.  I've been there and done that - frustrating, isn't it.  Especially for quick 'qwerty' typists like you and me.

In the meantime, go girls go, feet permitting...

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Hello all.  I am SO glad Sweets has been in contact as I had been a bit concerned but now I know she is well, I am much relieved.

So, Sweets cherie, if you want me to wait in Burgos, let me know and thanks for the ear plugs which I am guarding with my life.  Last night I had a man sleeping on top of me (bunk bed speak) and his snores vibrated the bed.  Not amusing. And another pilgrim was wearing one of those apnea masks but it didn´t do too much good.

It really is lovely in the Rioja and the wine is not bad although the stuff they plonk in front of the pilgrims is probably not the top du top but it comes with the meal.  When Robin leaves I´ll probably get into cooking from time to time when there is a kitchen in an Albergue, otherwise it will be a communal meal with the pilgrims in the parish churches.  An evening with the holy rollers, prayers, grace, benediction compris. Lunch is usually a tin of tuna, chunk of bread and some fruit and a yoghurt and as the caloric expenditure is so great, I´m eating anything that passes in front of my nose. 

Tonight we are in Azorfa, a neat little town with a fabulous new Albergue giving double acommodation instead of rooms catering from 8 to 180 pilgrims. As of Friday I´ll be alone, like Sweets, and if she doesn´t want me to wait for her, I´ll be heading into the Meseta, the idea of which makes me shake in my boots - very hot, very flat and very demanding.

Yesterday I lost (actually, I forgot) the only long sleeved cool shirt I had for the Meseta but now that a sort of pilgrims peace has decended upon me I´m happy that someone else has it as no doubt they need it more than me.

Sweets, you said that the Camino gives you what you need, not what you want and that is so true.  On arrival in Viana I saw a shoe shop with exactly the sandals I needed and decided to go back and get them to replace the useless ones I had.  On arrival the the Albergue, I discovered that one of the useless ones had dropped off my pack and that without the shoe shop I would have been in trouble.

Thanks to everyone for your good wishes.  Sweets, je t'adore and I'll see you between here and Santiago.  Now I'm off for more Rioja[Www]

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well, here i am still with the dodgy keyboard. how great it is to hear from everybody especially you, gem.

i couldn´t get as far as your town today as i´d had 2 long hard days and i was completely crevee. so i am now writing from a refuge in najera or a town sounding like that. as ericd might say, cést un nom a coucher dehors ex. mk

three of my toes are completely kaput and i think the nails will drop off in good time.

pacha, i thought of you yesterday as i was in a town where they were driving bulls down the streets as part of a fiesta and i understood that there was a bull fight in an arena later on that day.

bulls weren´t really hurt though there was a man wielding a big stick. they just look completely bewildered and were slipping and falling on their own sh1t. just a very sorry sight imho

i have had some great company though i miss my dear gem and everywhere i go, i think of her having preceded me. gem, as you know, i am not much into praying but i did have a quiet word on my special hotline, requesting that you be kept safe and that you have a great camino

it s not much point waiting for me as i shall be at least 2 or more days behind you. i also made one or two little detours to look at churches that interest me and also at the fabulous gardens at pamplona and the one at logrono was unavoidable anyway as it was on the route

yesterday was tres dure as the suburbs of logrono seemed to go on for ever. i honest ly did try at least 3 shops to replace my knickers but, alas, none to be bought. so, they must be quite unnecessary after all.

i have a very large austrian gentleman sleeping not 6 inches from me tonight. well, before wooly s imagination runs riot, i must say that he seems to have done nothing but sleep since my arrival and both his feet are all bandaged up.

what great weather we are having. only the one morning of rain in the beginning of the first week and now the rioja country seems as dry as old bones.

must go as i am still struggling with the keyboard and i still have messages to send.

just time to say a quick adios. will now go and get that very well deserved (whatever the local) drink is. will enquire tout de suite
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Hi Pancake Queen, just arrived back in France, logged in and now I'm up to date with your travels! I've sent your news on to Gem, who is going to contact John from Burgos when she gets there, for news of you. Robin will be leaving her there.

She mentions very hot, flat walking, and a parish albergue with very poor conditions, and moving straight on to another, better place with far better toilet facilities etc. Also mentioned food not being good.

Hope the Austrian chap stayed still and quiet, and that your feet are keeping OK.

Oh dear, the icons seem to have disappeared again; consider a big smile attached to this post!

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.....completely bewildered and were slipping and falling on their own...... Dont worry Sweet when they get to the sand in the arena the bulls wont slip at all, cobble stones are not for bull's hooves.

Glad the weather has changed for the better, good luck on the camino and get to santiago for the 6th Nov.

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At last, an albuque that seems more like a hotel than a refuge, except of course, there are still about 10 other people in my bedroom!

There was even a chiropodist in attendance and he pricked all the blisters on my toes and the soles of my feet and put antiseptic cream on them and then bound them all up with plasters and whatnot. 

This morning it rained quite a bit so it was a chance to try out the gaiters!  Indeed they worked very well and I found a laundromat opposite so I have had a MACHINE do all my washing!!!  Imagine, a machine that washes clothes!  What advancement there has been in 21st century automation since I left France nearly 2 weeks ago.

Just a few quick personal messages:  thank you, Pat.  Prayers will be very welcome.  GG, great to know you have gone back to France.  Ericd, thanks for the good wishes and I so love your phrase of " un nom a choucher dehors" that I now sometimes add "avec un billet de logement"!  Showing off to the French people (of which there are considerable numbers).

Pacha, I don´t think I want to watch any bull sport, to be honest.  Mind you, here in San Domingo, there is some legend dating back to whenever that requires a cockerel and a hen (both white) to be put in some lightless room in the cathedral.  The poor fowls take it in turns to go into this room.  This is because they get so stressed that they practically peck out all their own feathers and they look like the chicken equivalents of leprosy or AIDS victims.  I suppose the poor birds, like the bulls, suffer through the acts of humans.

Tonight, I am off to the Cathedral for a service, after which, I am told that you get a FREE conducted tour.  I noticed this afternoon that a tour normally costs 3.50 euros.  So, can´t be all bad when you can have some spiritual refreshment and a tour thrown in for free.

It´s great to be able to write properly without jiggling about with the keyboard.  I was very tempted to stay in the local parador, just for tonight, so that I could have "facilities" but I am very glad now that I didn´t as this place is wonderful and the parador would have dented the pocket money somewhat.

It´s absolutely barbaric and I´´m afraid I did suggest that perhaps this ancient tradition could now be done away with.  I

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[quote user="pachapapa"]

1 Timothy 5:23

and come to think of it , beneficial to the feet of those virgin grape stompers as well.[:)]

[/quote]

Pacha, OH maintains that the wine is for RUBBING onto your stomach and not for putting inside it!

Anyway, who needs cheapo wine as served up with the Pilgrim Menu when you could glug brandy at 2 euros a shot served in a proper brandy glass and the patron just sloshes it in and doesn´t bother to use an optic?

Anybody now sorry they didn´t want to join us when we invited them?

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[quote user="sweet 17"]

Anybody now sorry they didn´t want to join us when we invited them?[/quote]

Well I am kind of sorry, Sweet, although I prefer to watch the documentary on TV (i.e. reading your brief reports here)... although I am sure there are some incredibly uplifting moments, and personal pride and sense of achievement, and exhilaration from being on such an adventure,  I really couldn't hack sharing sleeping facilities with other people. I could probably put up with the wandering toenails better than with spending nights holed up with other beings.

So I follow your progress both with great attention and excitement - also trying to read between the lines, searching for that possible "other journey". What you have done so far is most impressive!!!! Bonne continuation, you know that many people's thoughts are with you!!!

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Sweet, how marvellous that you've had treatment for your feet - must have felt blissful! And to think I thought I had problems when out hiking if I got one blister! That was in the days before I found Compeed and then Goretex boots!  [:)]

Hope the free cathedral visit was good, and that you continue your trek fleet of foot! [:D]

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Actually, Cathy, it´s a Spanish keyboard: mcuh worse than a French one.

Yesterday, I had a very short walk as the asthma was playing up due to, I think, other people coughing and spluttering near me on all those pushed together bunk beds.

Went to the hospital to see the doc. Before the receptionist had said so much as buenos dias, she shuffed a piece of paper in front of me which began, "You have received treatment under the Spanish Health Authority...."

Received treatment! At that time no one had even greeted me, never mind having been treated!

With the air of a magician producing a white rabbit out of his top hat, I got out my EHIC and my passport and waved them under the haughty one´s nose.

Her attitude melted, but only slightly and she deigned to make me an appointment which was for 2 hours´time.

I decided to head back into town for breakfast but and to leave my heavy rucksack somewhere and then go back to the hosp for my appt.

Alas, when I arrived back in the albergue, it was closed.

I then remembered that, from a very early age, OH had instilled into me that if I ever found myself in a strange town and was in need of the loo or food and drink, my best bet was to head for the most expensive looking hotel in town.

As this was a little so-so place called Santo Domingo, the Parador looked to be the swankiest place they could muster.

Must remind myself to look up the history of these paradores. How come they are such state-owned palaces of luxury? Do they date from Franco´s time perhaps?

From the reception, I was waved airily into the dining room which was all subtle lighting, heavy drapes, expensive and solid furniture and what is this? Whitely starched linen on the tables?

They looked at me askance as I was wearing my only outfit of patched up old walkinig boot with a couple of bags strapped round my waist and my sun visor on my head.

Desayunos, por favor, I said with insistence. Well, no, I didn´t really raise my voice in the prescribed manner when one is "abroad", but I did find later that I had left one of my ear plugs in and so I MIGHT have been a decibel or two above my usual range.

I was careful to choose a table not too far away from the spread of hot and cold meats, cubes of this and round balls of that (no, I don´t know what they were), fresh fruit piled up artfully on platters, savoury pastries, sweet pastries, good smelling bread rolls, etc.

Ah, running out of time and so you will have to wait for the description of breakfast until another time!
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