Oil/grease around my Gaiter

[alittlebitfrench]

I had a quick peep under the car (Saab classic 900) and the there is oil all around the gaiter on one side of the car.

Closer inspection and the gaiter has cracked. This has only happened recently.

OK, no a big problem.

But what I don't understand is why there is oil and grease around it.

Have googled it but to be fair I don't know what to google.

Of course I would ask this question on a motoring forum, but I prefer the advice given here.

So what is with all the grease ? Where does that come from ?

The shocks are Ok !! Fluid levels are ok !!!

[Chancer]

You need to precise what gaiter you are talking about, steering rack, track rod end, CV joint, shock absorber etc etc.

 

All are to keep dust and contaminants out and the lubricant in, grease in all but the latter where it would be oïl but should not be visible.

[alittlebitfrench]

Its the rubber gaiter thing that protects something that connects to the wheel. I guess it is part of the steering. ???? It is just behind the wheel. I am useless when it comes to cars.

I have ordered the part and it was in the steering section of the website.

So there is grease inside it and because it has cracked it has leaked ???

Do I re-grease everything when refitting the new parts ??

What am I suppose to do here ?

Don't say garage. I hate them.

[dave21478]

What did you order?

Have a look on Google images for "track rod end" which is a balljoint that has a small rubber cover. Then check "Steering rack gaiter" which is a much larger bellows to accomodate movement of the steering rod.

Changing either of these will likely require you to separate the track rod end from the hub, which is a single nut and an incredibly tight conical fit....a balljoint splitter is required or if you hold the head of a sledge-hammer against one side of the steering arm as an anvil and smack the other side HARD with a hammer it will likely pop out. With the balljoint split apart, you can refit its rubber shield or if its the steering rack gaiter you can now unscrew the whole balljoint and slide the gaiter onto the rack in place of the old one.

None of it is rocket science, but you need to know what you are doing and have the right equipment. Its messy and replacing the boot on a balljoint is a massive pain in the harris....generally just easier to change the whole part as the joint is likely worn anyway.

Any dismantling here will require the front wheel alignment to be re-set at a garage after it goes back together.

Alternatively, clean the crack on the existing part with a solvent and then super-glue the crack back together. No, really, this will hold for a long time to come.

[alittlebitfrench]

Thanks for the advice...very much appreciated.

I ordered that..

http://www.rbmperformance.com/lng_FR_srub_35_iprod_604_p_1v5-soufflet-de-cremaillere-gauche-ou-droit-pour-saab.html

(I cant make it live...sorry.

It looks right....I have learnt it is the rubber boot for the CV joint.

BUT.....looking through my two books and the hassle involved you are right in saying you may as well replace the whole thing. I have an old boy who does car mechanics on old cars down the road who will do it for me if I order the parts. This is out of my competency.

When you say replace the whole thing....what do I need to replace/ order ?

I may as well replace the bushes as well as they are a bit crunchy.

Also, if I replace one side, do I do the other ?

Its hard work restoring cars. But I enjoy it. I want to make the car brand new so I am happy to do what is necessary.

In the meantime I am going to try and glue the crack back as suggested. Super glue ??? Super glue gel ??? or is there a better product for rubber. Do I inject some grease back ???

[dave21478]

The part you have linked to is a steering rack gaiter.

The CV joint is part of the driveshaft that links gearbox to wheel hub.....very different, and also a messy hassle to replace.

I suggest you get the guy to have a look first so you get the right parts and can order anything else that might be needed at the same time.

The problem is that no matter where you buy these parts from, chances are they are all churned out from Peoples Glorious Rubber Components and Baby Food Manufacturing Facility Number Seven, somewhere in China. There is apparently a global shortage of natural rubber so most things are now a synthetic blend containing little actual rubber and lots of recycled vibrators and other miscellaneous junk. As such its rare for new parts to last more than a few months, maybe a year if you are lucky.

Last year I finished a full bare-shell strip down and restoration of a car. Its old rubber parts were all badly worn so with little choice I replaced everything. Its done a few hundred miles since then and they are all falling to bits and need replaced again.

Try to get a proper Saab part if possible, or repair the old one. Any kind of superglue will do the job, the important part is getting the edges of the split perfectly clean and free from grease.

[alittlebitfrench]

hmmm...

I think this is what I need...made in Sweden...thankfully. LOL

http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?products_id=2094

Not really an expensive part with the gaiter. But that is definitely the gaiter that has split.

The car does make a knocking noise when turning at very slow speed (like in a car park) but not during normal driving conditions. I don't have any other suspension steering problems when driving. The car feels fine to drive.

I might as well replace the CV joint while I am at it..

But your telling me it is a hassle. Expensive hassle ? Looks like a 3 hr job to me for someone that knows what they are doing. My part comes pre packed with grease. That must save time ???

[dave21478]

You will still need to undo the main hub nut, split the bottom balljoint and pull the suspension outwards off the end of the driveshaft. It is much easier to remove the whole shaft from the gearbox (oil will come out when you remove it) and change the CV on the workbench than on the car. You will likely need heavy circlip pliers to remove the old joint.

This guy shows the procedure to remove and replace the whole driveshaft....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jydxpsh13WQ

This is one of those jobs where if you have to ask, you maybe better not, because if you get half-way through and get stuck you need to car picked up and towed to a garage.

[richard51]

And this shows your tip for using glue. (very near your other reference)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLrGNU_t83Y

Very interesting, but beyond my abilities I'm afraid.

[alittlebitfrench]

Yes, I've read that this morning. I am now an expert on driveshatfs. LOL

I did not realise you have to pull the whole thing out. Eek.

Trouble is, sooner or later I am going to have to grow some and sort these things out on my own. The part costs 50 squid but labour.....well they will she see me coming. 500 euros !!! I am not paying 500 euros for a 50 squid part.

There is plenty of info for a saab on the net and I have a book by Bentleys 'the official Saab 900 service manual' which does a step by step guide to the procedure.

I've reached the point in France where I just don't trust anyone with cars. Having said that, I don't trust them to drive them either.

[alittlebitfrench]

@ Dave...or anybody else.

If I clean it up and remove the grease around the crack, can I use transparent 'external' silicon to repair the gaiter on a temporary basis ???

It is only a small crack !!!

That would work no ???

[woolybanana]

What a thread, All Gas and Gaiters with the serious problem of ALBF having cracked rubbers.

[Harnser]

Here you go - a complete step by step guide on how to replace the CV joint gaiter on a Saab 900, including all the tools needed.

http://www.thesaabsite.com/faqs/FAQ--suspension-category--cv-boot-%26-joint-replacement.html?id=1029

[alittlebitfrench]

Thanks Harnser...I missed that article. Very much appreciated.

I am going to mothball the car and put it under a cover for the rest of the winter and pick it up again in the spring.

The joys of car restoration.