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Gas hob burners won't stay alight


Lindnarden
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We had  a similar problem with a new cooker, if it is from a large gas tank outside (not bottled) where it comes in at the back of the oven there should be a cream plastic thing covering a valve on this there should be the capacity, I didn't realise they come in different sizes, the smallest being about 1.2 kilos (gas per hour)  the next being around 4 and the largest being around 6 we changed ours to the middle size and it worked fine, the other thing to check is that it has the right type of nozzles on the burners as they differ for gas de ville or bottled
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If the other burners are OK, and these light when pressure is maintained on the control then it is unlikely that there is anything wrong with the gas supply.

The probable cause is failure of thermocouples to the flame failure safety devices.

Are there two small spikes or similar next to each burner? One will be the spark gap for ignition and the second would be a thermocouple which when hot generates a small electrical current which is fed back to the control knob and holds open a solenoid valve in the gas supply to that burner.  When you hold the knob in the solenoid is overridden and gas flows. The thermocouple heats and the valve is held open. The flame goes out and the thermocouple cools and the valve closes.

 

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Yes, it is a large buried gas tank in the garden. The weird thing is that I pumped the gas control knob up and down on one of the malfunctioning burners (whilst lit) for no apparent reason and it seems to have done the trick for that one - the other one remains buggered and I assume it is the mystical thermocouple to which people have referred. Is this an easy thing to change oneself or am I likely to blow the house up.

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It does sound as though the safety device is playing up.........however there are several different types available and on a hob I think it is unlikely to be a thermocouple type. It is more probable that it is a flame rectification safety device.

This is a bit more complex in that the electrode that delivers the spark to ignite the burner also detects when the burner is lit, it is important to ensure that the tip of the electrode is is touching the flame when the burner is lit.

DO NOT try to bend the electrode towards the burner if it is not in the flame, many of these electrodes have a ceramic sleeve which if cracked will render it useless.

 

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Its worth checking the valve thing as the symptoms are exactly the same as we had so possibly it could be the same problem , we spent alot of time looking at the cooker and trying different things but as soon as the valve thing on the wall was changed it worked and had nothing to do with the safety device so it could in my humble opinion it could be worth investigating.
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It would only be a problem with the DDS ( the valve by the cooker) if as you light the burners the flame on the lit burners reduces

Normally if the DDS is undersized it automatically shuts down on reduced pressure and you have no gas at all until you reset it

You only need the 4kg rated DDS for a large appliance, around 15Kw, for a normal cooker a 1.3kg DDS is correct

If it is the same burners that consistently are a problem then it is most likely a problem with the safety protection device on the burner

You would need a specialist to repair the appliance

Le Plombier

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[quote user="Lindnarden"]Yes, it is a large buried gas tank in the garden. The weird thing is that I pumped the gas control knob up and down on one of the malfunctioning burners (whilst lit) for no apparent reason and it seems to have done the trick for that one - the other one remains buggered and I assume it is the mystical thermocouple to which people have referred. Is this an easy thing to change oneself or am I likely to blow the house up.
[/quote]

I had the same problem with two  burners on a new hob and like you by experimenting I found the above trick which worked for a while and then needed repeating. I finally solved the problem par hazard by removing the knob and retightening the retaining nut a tad, I still have no idea what it did other than there was a thermocouple termination held by the same nut.

Flushed with success I tried the same on the other recalcitrant burner and it fixed that one permanently as well.

Worth a punt I say!

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We had a similar problem with our new hob and asked our plumber about it when he just popped in for something else.After much debate between us all we went back to the instructions and found on ours there is a screw beside each burner and this adjusts the flow for individual burner heads.

Did not have correct size screwdriver though (very small philips head),so will have to wait till next visit to try this out.

May be of some help?

Best of luck,

Johnnyboy

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