robbie

the transaltion for the French text above reads:- The search for lead drains does not form part of the field of application of the CREP (the report of risk of exposure to lead) Just for those of us who dont understand too much French [;-)]

[quote]normally specified in loft conversions as an escape route. [/quote] an important safety thought if the building is very high

loads of uses for it 1. round pipes going through walls 2. floorboard to walls 3. window and door frame sealing 4. window flower boxes inside the corners (external foam). It stops the water getting into the edges and allows it to flow thru the holes you cut 5. making molds for casting plaster of paris things (not very smooth but the PoP can be finished after and you do need to think carefully what you mold) 6. pointing/sealing hidden brickwork. I used it under some flooding and it stopped next doors chip-fat cooking from coming in 7. filling gaps in walls prior to plastering. must seal and trim properly before plastering etc etc Let your imagine go WILD [8-|]

[quote]My bet is with a kiddy involved they will quickly discover the joy of picking at it in a bubblewrapesque kind of fixation! (I find funny-foam as we call it hard to resist) [/quote] some of us never grow up do we [blink] Now where is that can of mine [:D] Glad it worked out in the end [:D]

[quote]must have another glass of red wine....[/quote] or perhaps not [:D] Sorry I dont know about the rods but I am sure someone on here will

[quote]As for the 90 degrees - I don't know either - I saw the comments about that but the installer is the local professional so he should know[/quote] I was led to believe that horizontal flues were fine if the outlet from the burner was on the back and not the top......

I would go for lifting it and then resting it on a smaller/narrower piece of treated wood. That will then give you more of a gap to use the foam from the tin. The power of the foam should (I think) help support the weight of the shed too when it has cured so will be as good as putting it on a solid floor direct. It will allow you to get a better thickness of foam in the area and hence a better seal. I dont know how wide the base of the shed is, but if the new piece of wood was of the right size, it may allow a bead of foam on BOTH inside AND outside the shed with a nice double seal. A bit more messing around bt might be worth thinking about There's yet another way of doing it [:D]

[quote]and then does a 90 degree bend into the chimney[/quote] I was advised not to have 90 degree bends in the flue and try to keep it to max of 22.5, 45 as an absolute max...... now I am confused. Maybe this is part of the issue, if the flue did not go horizontal, then the tarry goo would trickle into the burner and be reburnt..... or do I have it all wrong [8-)]

I am surprised about the bad feedback, I too thought that they were a good company. I wonder if your bad experience is a 'one off' or if there are others out therewith similar problems. I dont mean to belittle your proeblem, it sounds quite serious and totally wrong on someones part, but if they sell lots of items and have little/few problems then they are 'generally' good I guess. I hope it gets resolved soon for you

probably not.... especially if it one of those things that would affect the sale....

Has anyone had any experience of this particular furniture store?? They are opening a store near us in the UK very soon. I am after information about their service and product quality in particular.

Our next door neighbour (he runs a wood for heating business) charges for 3 x 1mtr cubes of wood approx 135 Euros and will cut to whatever length you need so I guess around 40-50 Euros seems about right. I did hear it was more expensive in the Massive Central areas (La Souterraine, Bourganeuf), the person telling me couldnt give me any reason for it though.

[quote]I don't think I'd fancy leaning out of a fourth-floor window and trying to wrestle with a heavy and unwieldy shutter![/quote] Ours are are not massive and also fitted inside the framework so would be removable from inside the property, hence the question to check if it is possible in this instance. I would not suggest for one minute to lean out of the window unsafely and risk falling over.......

can they not be removed from inside the property??

If this is for the actual fireback, there are special paint in the UK which you can buy (not sure about france) which are fire resistant and made for the job. We installed a new fireback some years ago in our other house and it arrived in plain firebrick colour. We sprayed it black with the special paint for a few quid and it looked a treat. If this is for the surround, then I would think the above comments by Ab are very relevant

try this, it is in French though [url]http://www.brico.be/wabs/fiches/pdf/fr/3-4.pdf[/url]

Thanks for that [:)]

This has made me think now, our new house looks like it has granite around the edges. I wonder if it is real or just a front??

[quote]Heard anything about the forthcoming stipulation when one is selling a property, La G? Apparently, a vendor will have to provide certificates of conformity in the same way one does already for lead and asbestos and of course, termites in the more Southerly climes. [/quote] this is also the case for LPG now since Nov 1st. If the LPG has ANY fixed pipework then it must have a test/certificate to verify it. We signed over our house early Nov and the vendor knew nothing about it, it was brought up by the Notaire. We decided at the signing that the vendor would come and remove it from the house after the sale as I only needed a LPG bottle which could be moved around while we renovate. Bottles which are on a totally flexible pipe are not included apparently and it is only when the house is to be sold it needs the test/conformity as does the lead/asbestos

is the '230mm' flue size from anything substantial or just a personal thought?? It does seem rather large when burners can have them less than that and work fine. Or am I getting confused somewhere [8-)]

[quote]it would allow the cavity between liner and chimney to fill with smoke.[/quote] it is the cavity which I wonder about and if there is anything I can do. I suppose I could seal the liner at the bottom, but what with and would the liner be adequate for an open fire as it will be a more reduced area than the old chimney, but then as you say, if it is sealed at the top then the only working area anyway is going to be the liner....... I do think it will probably be fine whether I seal at the bottom or not. If there is any leak of smoke from the old chimney, we would soon see/smell it I suppose...

[quote]The invoice was for 400€[/quote] was it the same guy who installed the new boiler by any chance who also cleaned the tank?? It does seem a bit steep. What would the cost of a new tank have been??

I have used ours on an english extension lead which is rated at 13A. The extn lead does have a french plug on it so will this be fine [8-)] I am guessing the issue here is the low rating of the adaptor that fits into the wall, probably only 3A or 5A

[quote]The previous owners of our property either didn't have a wood burner or, more likely took it with them, so I had the same problem. I just had the chimney swept, put a few logs down, and away it went.[/quote] did yours have a flue liner in the chimney too?? Our does and I am wondering if this needs to be sealed around its outside so the smoke goes up the liner only or if it is fine to leave it so smoke goes either through the flue and/or outside the flue liner.

yeeh I know that but they do look good [:)]