Everything posted by Gluestick
Yes, I do remember using it, Steve, when I was at Management School (as we called it then: Business School which sounds posher came later!) in the 70s.
As well as the Joe Bailey Action Maze, Transactional Analysis, bridge and tower building with Lego and all the other then buzzy stuff! Plus all the "Power" books, such as Zen on the Art of Motorcycling.
Can't remember much about the techniques, now, however, which just shows how important we all thought it was ! (Not!).
No one here involved (past life or now) with ICT? (And there we go once more! Information and Communcations Technology).
Earlier this week, I was having an econference with India. I typed in "ASP", which led to considerable confusion. One of the other guys assumed (always dangerous!) that I meant Active Server Pages (A Microsoft dbase product used at the back-end of webservers for websites) but I actually meant Application Service Provider, which is something totally different!
The only area which I have found enjoys almost as many acronyms as ICT is education.
In various roles, I've needed either an Acronym:English - English:Acronym dictionary or a full-time translator! Didn't have either, sadly and just had to guess as we went along.
Almost as bad are PC English and local authorities and regional government........................................
This is a loaded question!
It really depends which authority you believe.
In theory, any substantial new wiring (apart from having to conform to the latest regulations), requires certification from one of the approved inspecting agents licensed by Comité National pour la Sécurité des Usagers de l’Electricité (Consuel).
Why? Insurance acceptance and future sale. Apparently, it is becoming more common for purchasers to demand assurance in this area.
One core aspect is the integrity of the earth connection. The equipment to test this, is very accurate, specialised and expensive. A standard multimeter won't do. And the only person who can test and agree with the integrity of an earth connection is a representative of Consuel.
Obviously, if you have the right kit (or know someone who has), you can pre-test the earth, prior to the official inspection.
Additionally, you could have another problem: all properly licensed, insured and approved artisans, possess what can be called Vocational Qualification. It is fundamentally illegal to work, for money, in France without such approval. Thus even a UK qualified electrician's work, in France can be deemed unacceptable! Even where the regulations have been scrupulously adhered to, in full.
By having the work inspected and certified by Consuel, you have coppered your bet.
Anyway, I did start off by saying "Apparently"! These are my conclusions, as I am shortly to completely re-wire an old installation, where I already have a new digital Compteure, have had an increase in power, and therefore don't need a primary connection to the incoming supply, as it's already there.
(I shall now standby, for the torrent of further and conflicting information![;-)] But hey![:D] That's how we all learn stuff on this site!)
Couldn't agree more, Tres!
The lounge is 7.6M X 4.6M. At present, whilst we do have electric "Central Heating" as well as the wood burner, the electric heating is very poor and very expensive![:@]
So, the next job this year, is oil-fired Chauffage Centrale.
The poele is great for siting round and watching the flames with a glass of red stuff: but it does mean one end of the room becomes stiffling: and the other is still chilly.
Also have a Deville diesel heater: messy and expensive. Can eat up to ten litres a day (ouch![:(]) in really cold weather. Central heating will be cheaper and much better at evenly distributing the heat all around the house (which is 27 M long).
And then for the Greniere..............................
Come on, Steve: you ought to know by now.
Women are great at multi-tasking.
Aim a 4 X 4 on the school run; do their makeup; chat on their mobile; shout at the kids; change a CD; readjust the rear view mirror to do their eyeshadow; terrorise other drivers.
And all with only one pair of hands!
Pretty impressive stuff, I'd say![;-)]
(Gluestick now hides behind his wife!).
As they might say, Alane, "Surely do!"
Originally, after much research, I contacted a chap named Doug Elbon at a company named Brown & Wiser Inc. (The distributors for APC) [email protected]
Doug kindly checked the stock of American Yard Products parts (and my specific part) and put me onto Stuart Owens [email protected] one of their retail dealers.
Stuart had the part and most kindly created one dedicated page on their web site for me! In order that I could place a secure order (SSL site; no problem with using a credit card).
It was sent via DHL. Delivered very promptly thereafter!
Their complete details are:
I was literally amazed (though on reflection not so, having spent some time in the USA) at the service and speed of responses. Too used to laisez faire England, I suppose![blink]
Hope this helps.
P.S. Thank goodness for PC file architecture and Outlook and archiving emails etc.
P.P.S. Total cost (including shipping) was $184.70, which at that time was £105.00!
Not at all.
Old equipment can be replaced on a like-for-like basis.
The new regulations demand far higher attention to safety and balanced distrbution of loads.
It would be impossible, as already stated, to gain certification for a new installation if one used single pole MCBs.
However, a majority of existing, old, French wiring is potentially dangerous: and most old rural residential properties have simply added bits to what was effectively lighting wiring, as time marched on. Indeed, most of the oldsters in our village still call it the Lumiere, rather than electricity!
OK,Chris, please let me know and I'll respond.
Stihl is one of the best: all made these days by Electrolux, as are most garden products, as I found out when I tried, vainly, to buy a new cutting deck housing for my Rallye ride-on mower, made originally by AYP in the USA, sold retail new in France. In the end, I imported the spare part from a very helpful US dealer and actually had the bit, before Electrolux bothered to answr my query to their Technical Service and Spares division: after I had, with great difficulty, tracked 'em down![Www]
Personally, I am so dubious about chainsaws, my new thermique, remains in its box: still have circa 30 trees to prune and lop this Autumn, so I'll have to pluck up courage: once I've bought my chainmail suit![blink]
Chris: here is a small module for motor control. Limited to 1,500 Watts, though.
Also, not suitable for inductive loads, so it's back to the question of what sort of motor is used in your saw?
Cost is less than £14.00 +VAT.
At the risk of being told off by the Mods, [;-)] I'll continue on cars, for a bit.
I hav always loved the Dino 246. I used to drive one quite a bit in the early 70s. In fact, probably hold the record for the highest illegal speed within the local 30 MPH limit! Has to be in perpetuity, now, as speed bumps installed up the hill! Yes, it was up the hill!
Used to prefer the Dino to a 911: much more drivable car and super-responsive handling.
Used to drive a Lambo Espada quite a bit in that era: fantastic fun, but not as nimble as the Dino.
These days, I'm very respectable and slow (ish!).
Apparently, it's now impossible to source panels for the Probe? Ford have stopped supporting body spares? Chatting this AM early, to chum who has an Audi Quattro rally car; body bits for this are now all but dried up.Apparently, rear skirt panel is circa £800+ if you can find one! he doesn't drive on the public roads too much now.
Ian: They have come on quite a bit, now.
As you comment, what is called, "Soft Start" is pretty effective; and as you say, most corded power tools have effective speed controllers these days.
The old circuits were simple Thyristor circuits: and pretty useless, too![+o(]
[quote user="Chris Head"]
Thankyou both for your replies, I've just about worked out which end of the chainsaw I can hold and which does the cutting, I've been told not to touch the thing that whizzes around or I could be in trouble. I really just want to know if my suggestion will wreck the motor or not?
Very droll, Chris, very droll. I had worked out that you recognise the nasty sharp bits: looked at your site, after reading your other thread on poison emails. Very impressive (the site, not the email!). Sculpture is great!
Hard to really answer your question: it would all depend on what type of motor the chainsaw uses.
I would think that the design requirements are for even torque, delivered from the get go: torque needed, rather than power, to overcome the initial guide friction: and even more for the cut to be started. And that's the core benefit of electric motors; as against internal combustion engines: both the torque and power curves of electric motors are flat, once the reach their design rotational speed.
What concerns me, is that as the speed is reduced (by imposing a different set of electrical parameters on the motor, from its design performance), the RPM will drop (obviously) and thus the power output will also drop: but worse, depending on the type of motor, the torque could drop, accentuating the freeze effect I mentioned earlier.
Most semi-industrial motors of this type, are designed to deliver the required power at the set constant speed and torque; with significant starting torque in order to overcome inertia - which includes the inherent friction and accelerating the mass of the moving parts. Now, the starting method is all important here: several different types of starting, for A.C. Induction motors.
Now, the last thing to do with a chainsaw (as I understand it), is to leave it in a cut, turn it off and then restart, without firstly removing the blade from the cut? However, that is almost what you would be doing with a speed controller: stalling the motor in the middle of a cut: and then restarting; even as Nick points out, at a high rate of stall per second.
In order to control speed (and thus power) and most essentially torque, you would need a pretty effective circuit: MOSFET based + micro-processor, ideally. One is detailed below. Even with this approach, momentarily, the current drawn by the motor, through the effective stalls, will leap up through the roof, as it recovers, thus you would need a pretty beefy circuit. (All A.C. motors draw their maxium current when starting from stationary.)
Lamp Dimmer? Not sure: these cannot be used for capacitive start motors, for example. Most dimmers have different circuits for incandescent loads and fluorescent/quartz/halogen, whilst some, now can be used for both.
More web refs.
Ford Probes? Well, I suppose someone has to! <Grin!>.[:)]
Like the pic of the Ferrari Dino 246GT, though! And right colour, too.
Had a problem a few years back: broke down on the pererifique in Caen: bolt broke on alternator adjustment. Managed to find a small garage. Guy couldn't do enough. Transpired he was the top restorer of old US cars (50s-70s) in France! Workshop was full of 'em!
For non-fiction, try Patricia Atkinson's book, "The Ripening Sun". A wonderful true story of how a very brave and incredibly determined English lady relocates to the Bergerac area and after considerable struggle, heartbreak, tragedy, wins through and is now an acknowledged wine expert and sole proprietor of an award winning vineyard.
The book encapsulates the vision that perhaps many brits have of France: fantastic neighbours: a commune where everyone knows everyone else, the land, growing and good food are the most important criteria in life.
Generally, AC Electric Motor Speed Controls use SCRs (Silicon Controlled Rectifiers) or Thyristers.
In practice, most speed controls cause the motor to accelerate and de-accelerate through the phase, so they effectively, "jerk".
Personally, I would think this would very dangerous with a chainsaw! It could be liable to stick: and then suddenly kick in. With the expected results.................................................kick-back and no head, for example!
The big problem could also be torque: as the motor jerks, the torque would be variable and liable to make you lose grip, as the teeth cut and then suddenly froze and then suddenly cut, once more. Exciting.
Never heard wood sculpture described as a dangerous sport before. You might start a new craze.
However, if you are determined to carve a new sculpture using you as the raw material, here is some information:
Perhaps a petrol chainsaw and judicious use of the throttle might be a safer route to success!
To answer the question, literally...........................[;-)]
Pork Pie Tester.
Jaguar Suspension Tester.
Civil Servant Tester!
Over-sized Traffic Bollard.
Patience Tester. (The Electorate's!).
A New Labour reprise for Sir David Lightbaum!
Yes, Angela. I do know that different Communes seem to interpret the new regulations in different ways, but I was convinced that any *New* installation, as you put it, would have to be passed by the relevant Conseil and meet the tough new regime. After all, it was a European Diktat, not a French initiative.
I'm saving my pennies for ours at the moment![:(]
Web Reference re people from abroad. Not a newspaper! Dept. of Health.
Ho ho! Glad it's not only me!
At present, in the UK, my business lines are besieged with spotty little Muppets and Muppettes trying to sell me competitive business telephone service. After a few minutes of their diatribe (all moronic, of course, and read, badly, from their VDU) I say, "Well, I have to inform you that we are the Fraud Squad and are investigating this company for telephone fraud!"
"Hello? Hello? Hello?"
Just a few more crumbs of information already gleaned by myself.
I had two separate quotes: they were both in the region of € 11.500,00. Both used "Top Dollar" materials.
I was advised that nearly all French oil boilers use the Lamborghini "guts", thus the expensive Chappi boiler I was quoted for was only a standard Lamborghini, with a different case and covered with electronics which go wrong! In the end, I costed all the materials at circa € 4.700,00. Bear in mind that the TVA was 19.6% for me: and only 5% for the plombieres, as the house is old. Which makes their quote even more expensive.
Brico Depot are undoubtedly the cheapest for materials.
Still trying to source a definitive statement from various Government websites, TU.
Initiative commenced 2003: modified 2004 in principle. I will keep on searching when I have spare time.
It seems far from clear what actually can transpire when ExPats return after more than six months (and in some cases three months) time abroad. Can even be taken as necessary for >nine months fresh residence to qualify!
Make me wish I had decided on law instead!
Rarely read newspapers, TU and the Daily Wail (or Daily Wannabee Middle England Female) is the last thing I would wrap my dirty shoes in!
Statement came from Government: the claim was that migrants were costing the UK government far too much![:-))] and in future, despite how many years of payments in NIC, after six months absence, visiting/returning ExPats would have to pay!
Busy at present (Thermal Fuses: you don't want to know!) will try and track down statement and source when I have a mo.