Poolguy

John Nice job, like the spalted beech and cherry. If you want some black walnut to play with then let me know and I'll bring some down on the next tour. Here is something of mine ... did it in a previous life. [IMG]http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss285/andrewhenderson/Harp4.jpg[/IMG] Andrew

I sugest you choose bioclave and not CCA - the first is yellowish and the second is green and very nasty  

SO Ernie You are are obviously comparing the cost of installing an adequate solar system to the FREE oil fired system, which is FREE to run for ever more.... gee wiz I havn't heard of that one....  please tell me more. Andrew  

Why not put all that complication and expence aside and install Solar instead? Its the same sun for everyone and the price for the energy is the same forever....... nothing! Andrew  

[quote user="buckdendave"] but frequently I have seen attempted explanations of the chemistry behind it and they haven't been right (you aren't one of them).  [/quote] He is talking about me John. Seems that that Dave thinks that I have a bit more schoolin to do to measure up. Andrew  

[quote user="Apero"] [quote user="teapot"]If you let me know how much you would need I can give you a price via PM.[/quote] Hi Teapot, Could you pm me also, require 125kg, do you also sell Zeolite? Interested in comparision. Which one would you recommend please? Apero [/quote]   My learned colleague Teapot would recommend AFM And I would recommend Zeolite Zel- Eau For much the same reasons, similar results (some differences), and much the same ..........! Andrew    

OK Mr Geek I've been busy with the season opening, too busy to do the research necessary to support my assertions contra your tomb on Chloramines formation arising from Ammonia in the Water. But now to Summarise: I contend that Zeolite will scrub ammonia from the water and so provide a benefit of less Chloramines formation – a worthy goal for any pool owner, private or commercial. You dispute that in your lengthy work where copious book study citations provide substance to the chemical reactions involved. My response is from empirical study. I mean that I have been out testing pools for ammonia using the Palintest indophenol method and if it (ammonia) were present in a chlorinated pool for example I would contend that your theory is debunked as, according to you, it should have combined ... in 2 seconds I think you said, and therefore no been detected through this method. Well the news is that I found Ammonia in EVERY POOL THAT I TESTED, even those that had Zeolite and in UV treated pools and so on. So yes it is an issue to be considered and YES I can confidently say (I am satisfied at least) that ZEOLITE DOES REDUCE AMMONIA in chlorinated pools. Because in all the pool I tested that had Zeolite in their filter for a significant time the Ammonia levels were insignificant <0,35mlg/lt There were pools in the sample with sand that went as high as >5,5mlg/lt, and I think that we all agree that is getting serious; Here is the table of results Domestic pools       Commercial pools       Owner Sand ZELEAU Comments Location Sand ZELEAU comments John 11   0,25 In balance Le Brande17 0,45   in balance Andy  66   5,65 green, no chlor Font Municip 85 0,04   Low chlor Muriell  17   0,21 green,CYN too high Bohat Child 56 0,07   fresh water Steve 85   0,33 In balance Bohat Slide 56 1,29   Green Richard 85 4,56   Clear, indoor Bohat Covered 56 5,65   Green Dubois 17   0,29 Clear,         Rod 17   0,13 Clear Resin         James11 3,6   Green Oxymatic             This is not a large sample of pools and so scientific conclusion are not to be drawn till more testing is undertaken, but the trend is clear and further some of the pools in the study were tested with sand filtration and have now changed to Zeolite and so we shall benefit from a comparison before/after.   So to answer your question, my sources are 1. the pools I service, and 2. Palintest testing equipment and technical advise from their chemists.   I am sure that you will have something (or a great deal) to say about this but for the moment I stand by my comments earlier and go further to say that its clear to me that the claims made by the manufactures of Zeolite and the vast body of Doctorial research holds up to practical examination in the field.   In short…… IT WORKS, and Chloramines are reduced, because of less ammonia in Pool water ONLY if you use Zeolite to filter the water.  QED   Andrew

[quote user="osie"]I have been considering changing the sand one day... I looked at the Dryden Aqua site but gave up trying to find - how much it will cost. There was tonnes of stuff but it all seemed very commercial water treatment orientated. [/quote]   Osie   Ive sent you a PM about Zeolite so that you can consider the benefits of all the options to improve your filtration. Andrew    

John I was going to let someone else have a go for a bit but nobody has 'thrown the hat' so it have a go. The Norm as far as I am concerned for earthing the pool water relates to Salt electrolysers where significant current in charged into the water, hence the need to earth it with a metallic probe in pipe work. Projectors are usually stepped down to 24v and very well insulated meaning that they are for all purposes harmless, so an immersion earth is perhaps useful but not essential. Other electrical devises such as the pump and what have you should not have an influence under normal circumstances.   Andrew

  As yet unconfirmed reports that the Minister for Ecology will again impose restrictions on filling swimming pools, private and public this Summer due to fears of a drought.    Le Ministère de l'écologie et du développement durable, par un décret du 31 mars 2009, vient de décider d'interdire tout remplissage de piscine cet été, aussi bien pour les bassins enterrés que pour les bassins hors sol et ce jusqu'au 1er octobre 2009 en prévision d'une sécheresse exceptionnelle...   This happened in 2006 when right across France, anyone found with a hose pipe in their pool was landed a significant fine. Water reserves went down to dangerously low levels and so it has become clear that this situation is anticipated more and more here in France. It means that Pools both above ground, in ground, private and commercial cannot be filled, topped up, gardens cannot be watered, cars not washed this summer.   During 2006  and since I have habitually advised, all pool owners that rainwater storage is the only safe way of ensuring your pool can operate successfully come what may. So those who have responded and have significant storage needn’t worry, but those who did not believe the message may again find that their pool usage this summer will be limited by dwindling levels   As I said this report is not confirmed, the source is reliable but until I read the Decré then it’s still just a rumour. I’ll post what I have when I get it. If you want advise on how to get equipped to cope with this then PM me.   Andrew

You would normally open a pool when the warer temp reaches 10°C for it is at that point that Algea can beginto grow and so you should start your filtration and sanitisation regime. This is a good time however to change the sand in the filter to Zeolite so that the season can run smoothly with exceptionally clear water and so much less useage of chlorine. Andrew  

Yes John   I'm sending you an email.   Andrew  

There are two distinct type of liner freize. There is the Printed band which is indeed, a piece of armoured liner which can be stuck on. The other type which is the subject of Northenders question is a row of ceramic tiles which fit into a holder which is suspended over the edge of the pool rim and fixed into the liners grip rail. But there is no affect to the liner itself, and it will not pull the liner off the grip rail.   If you need more information then contact me.   Andrew    

Yes you are right. Most of the Pitch pine was an import from trading ships that went from France/UK Ireland to the Americas loaded with all the trappings of the modern world and returning with Sugar cane, furs and Timber. The reason it was used in Warf construction is the sane reason its great for floors. Im on the look out for more, if anyone has any wide boards like that.   Andrew      

No not Oak of Chestnut.... definately Pitch Pine Its classed as a softwood but its anything but soft scoring 0.52 - 0.6 on the timber harness indexcomparet to Oak which scores 0.55 - 0.72  (both scores depend on the origin). Pitch pine has been atraditional choice for the best quality floors because it is very stable and it is very hard. You will be able to feel the wieght of the timber if you can get a piece up. When you cut it you get an absolutly wonderful sweet turpentine smell, its marvellous and unmistakable. I can recognise it as I've milled thousands of board feet in my days and I've got it in my house which I cut from Beams recovered from Belfast Warf - 7m long and 28cm wide, it has to be Pitch pine as nothing else can do that and stay down without moving. When the neighbors saw it going in they all scoffed that it would cup and distort, but it hasn't moved more than a millimeter (hasn't dried much either) in 2 years. [IMG]http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss285/andrewhenderson/PitchFloorSm/[IMG] Hope that you get the finish you want but don't be afraid to sand it as it will take all you can send and more... the finish will be a picture 5punch all the nails before hand of course). Send me the pics after as I cannot get enough of that sort of thing.   Andrew

Ahhh Yes..... Pitch Pine.... only the very best. And 30+cm wide too ...nice. Superb! Andrew (for me its got to be tung oil!)

I've air dried and kiln tried over 250tonne of oak  (in a former life)   Every board had a coat of melted candle wax on the end and the first 50mm Its a must to prevent end shakes Andrew

I tried to up load a pic but it didn't work....   Don't know how to do it exaclty, if anyone has an idea and could let me know.   Andrew

[quote user="Dinks"]So, I have Googled until I am blue in the face and no combination of search words has brought up a result which will assist in our endeavours to restore/renovate/protect the beautiful old original hardwood (chestnut I think) floorboards (1" or so in thickness and of varying widths) in our 200-300 yr old mountain farmhouse (pics available). Some of the boards on the first floor appear to be particularly friable and need lots of TLC (wood hardener?). The worst thing is that the previous (British) owners of the house made a bit of a patchwork of the bedroom area, painting a square here white, staining a section there with merisier lasure and leaving other whole swathes of boards untreated! So, if you have restored similar original flooring over here, can you give me your best advice please for a sympathetic restoration?! Covering the whole lot with parquet is not an option ;-) [/quote]   Sand the whole back to raw wood and burnish with Tung oil. Burnish every year afterwards to restore the patina Andrew http://my.fotopic.net/photo/0010985167/

Tim   Why don't you contact me, maybe I can help Andrew

I do not see any problem so long as the socket is fit for outdoor use, has an adequate earth and you have th correct differential disjunctor on the circuit. Naturally all of this would be the work of a qualified and registered electrician so naturally he would comply with the regs. Andrew  

Or you could employ an electrostatic leak detector....! Now that really would earn you a bill....  but it would certainly find the leak.   Andrew  

[quote user="steve"]you have a leak Steve [/quote]........ in the skimmer!! Where do we send the bill? (sic!) Andrew

I wanted to offer some advise to Potential Gite owners concerning swimming pools to be used as part of the rented facilities. Not sure if its been mentioned before, but these pools are classed as 'public' for the purposes of the Health Department DDASS and as such must be operated within the guidelines set out in their norms. Although it happens to mostly larger enterprises, the DDASS have the right and should in fact visit every Pool so defined and conduct a water analysis one a monthly basis to ensure that it is safe for the Public to swim in. The test is looking at 26 different parameters, most of which is beyond the capabilities of most Gite owners to test for and control themselves. The consequences are quite grave if any Public pool fails the test (is outside the parameters), for the Officer has the right to insist that the pool be closed for public use, drained or in serious cases, the proprietor might be fined (along with the previous). So if you decide to get a pool as one of the facilities you offer, then you need to acquaint yourself with the norms, and ensure that the pool is equipped to comply with the norms. This equipment is not the same as would be supplied by most Swimming pool installation companies as it is necessarily much higher and a lot have no idea what it entails but will insist that its nothing special – that’s wrong. It specifically excludes for example salt chlorination systems, as there is no norm for that even though I know of proprietors who continue to operate these systems and inspectors who do not insist that they be upgraded... this is France after all. So the message I can offer, is that you need to be not only informed about the requirements concerning public pools but also be prepared to invest more into the water quality than you might otherwise have spent... as well as things like Showers and footbaths etc. Another issue that seems to be very frequent is that the pool should be heated, as no one will really enjoy a dip in April with a pool temps at 10°C unless they have serious personal issues. In the main, pools need to be above 22°C up to 28°C for the time of your booking season. To achieve this is not as simple as you might think and relies on a combination of excellent insulation and continuous input of a large amount of energy, either solar, electric or another source. If anyone needs more information on this regards, please contact me.   Andrew

[quote user="BIG MAC"] Poolguy tried mailing you via your site last week but the mail kept bouncing. Very quick questions and almost on topic so if I may? 200 year old stone building cave going to be sitting rYes Definately a goeroom floors arranged over 6 different levels (Not 6 storey it's the usual neigbouring buildings floor levels different but knocked though into one) South Normandy / North Loire 180sqm hab surface for now more later. Roofs facing  N S E W I am about to start replacing tiled on earth floors and need a thin as possible floor make up to try to retain headroom (Particularly in doorways Sept Dwafs spring to mind) Is it a goer do you think on the evac tube method and underfloor or radiant panel backed up with solid fuel and running to thermal store? I was thinking solar / electric for water heating for simplicities sake. I am moving the family over next spring to live and need an economic and sensible system solar is not my strong suit albeit a chum is Worcester Bosch trained I think local knowledge is likely invaluable from a Regs Point of view.   [/quote]   Yes Definately a goer I've sent you an email, if you cannot get hold of me perhaps send a PM with your phone number and I'll call. Andrew