Chris Head Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 Ok perhaps a bit boring but it's important to know.There are two starting procedures, cold start and warm start.Chainsaws have differing start/stop and choke setups. The picture shows Husqvarna and Stihl saws and how they differ.[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01191.jpg[/IMG]The Husqvarna (on the left) has a seperate start/stop and choke control (the blue bit). The Stihl has the choke and start/stop on the same switch.On the Husqvarna, pulling the choke control all the way out is 'full choke' used for cold start, you also have to turn the saw on with the red on/off switch, on the Stihl pushing the choke control all the way to the bottom (you also have to depress the throtlle a little to allow it to go to full choke) also turns the saw to the on position.Cold StartTo start the saw from cold, apply full choke, put the saw on the ground, place the toe of your right foot through the back handle and your left hand on the top handle with the chain brake OFF! [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01196.jpg[/IMG]Pull the starter cord until the saw fires...it will fire up and then stop. Slide the choke control to the next position which is 'half choke' or 'fast idle'. Pull the saw over again until it fires up, at this point the engine and chain will be 'racing' on half idle, just 'blip' the throttle and it will go to idle speed, immediately apply the chain brake without changing your position. You're now in control of the saw.Let the saw tick over for a few moments to warm up and start with light cutting for a minute or two before you fully load the engine.Starting a chainsaw from cold either without the brake on or not being in full control of the machine is dangerous. Get used to following this routine.Warm StartThe chain brake should already be applied having finished cutting.Obviously the saw has already been used and is warm, so there's no need to use the choke.With the chain brake ON, switch the saw on, turn it on it's side and grip the rear handle between your legs and hold the saw on the side handle and pull it over, it should start immediately, if not go back to the cold start procedure.[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01197.jpg[/IMG]Applying Chain Brake.This is fundamental self preservation, just as putting a seat belt on is, it's so simple to do and should be an automatic part of your safety routine.The correct way to apply the brake is to simply 'snap' or nudge it on with the back of the left wrist whilst still holding the saw.[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01199.jpg[/IMG]And to take the brake off, with the thumb still hooked around the top handle use your fingers to pull the brake off.[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01200.jpg[/IMG]Both methods mean that you're in total control of the saw.Unless the chain is cutting, the brake must ALWAYS be on. Don't be tempted to walk around with the chain off. Once you get used to the routine it'll just be a non thinking action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford Anglia Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 What I'd like to know is WHY the little handle at the back only has space to put a small foot in a trainer in it, not a large one in a chainsaw boot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 TRAINER? Where's ye boots Ford Anglia? I'm in size 10's and can still hold the beasties down!This is just one of a 'Pun' type series of stickies about chainsaws, their use and maintenance. Hopefully it'll save someone from shoving a chain into themselves. Any questions are welcome. If anyone wants to come and spend some time when I'm felling or crosscutting, no probs and no charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Missy Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 Chris, you could make a good side line at making workshop safety manuals over the internet! Might pay for the amps..... [Www] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 Also on the stihl for winter use below 10 centigrade there is a small piece of plastic under the filter cover whichyou can put in a vertical position.I suppose this redduces amount of cold air . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassis Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 Good, clear instructions and photos, Chris. Nice one. [:)]How about 'sharpening a chainsaw blade' for the next one? You posted this for me before (thanks again) and it was very useful. With photos it would be even better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted November 21, 2006 Author Share Posted November 21, 2006 Well seing as it's you Cass....Ok!By the way, knives have blades....chainsaws have guide bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassis Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 And propellors have blades as well. [:D]Okay, I give in, what do you call the chain with the teeth on it that you have to sharpen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted November 21, 2006 Author Share Posted November 21, 2006 The chain & the cutters me ole' sausage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassis Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 Thank you - I only come on here to learn something each day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford Anglia Posted November 21, 2006 Share Posted November 21, 2006 [quote user="Chris Head"]TRAINER? Where's ye boots Ford Anglia? I'm in size 10's and can still hold the beasties down![/quote]I'm a size 9, but the toe of my boot hardly fits in the little handle of my Stihl, whereas a trainer will fit perfectly.Almost as if the manufacturers WANT you to try it with just a trainer..........[blink]How about a set of shots on how to service one? I spend ages with mine in bits, cleaning wood dust out of little holes to make sure it oils properly. Half the holes I so painstakingly clean out are probably blind, but since I dion't know that, clean 'em I must[Www] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted November 21, 2006 Author Share Posted November 21, 2006 I know what you mean FA, you could perhaps put a flat stick through the rear handle and stand on that as close to the handle as poss?Sure, happy to post about servicing some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Chris, there is no such thing as too much safety with a chain saw as far as I am concerned. If they can make short work of a hard bit of wood then flesh and bone are 'easy meat' for them. So thank you for your info. My new Sthil saw is a joy to use after the old one (20 years old). I still work in wonder of it.I have used a chain saw casually for a lot of years and they scare the proverbial out of me, but it don't half keep your concentration in the right place!Please keep the safety coming ther are a lot of us out here who need reminding.As you probably know, I use a biggish band saw a lot. That will cut matchsticks all day long. It will also cut 8 inch thick blocks of oak just as easily. That too needs the same respect, but at least it is a bit quieter and it don't kick, but I respect that just as much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoverfrog Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 Chris said to mention in open forum the following suggestion:"It might be an idea to get say, two or three of you together and spend two or three days going through through it all. I'm pretty sure I could line up some trees to be taken down. I could also introduce you to a few basic carving projects, it would give you a whole new perspective in your garden!"I'm signing up now (bagsy me first!) - and the OH is interested too!We can suppy trees as well - we have a small patch of woodland earmarked for heating wood that we will have to deal with soon!Anyone else interested??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted November 23, 2006 Author Share Posted November 23, 2006 Happy to do it HF. I think three is max. Full safety gear obligatory own saws preferable. There's no charge although if anyone needs to stay over contribution to food and wine appreciated (Sarah's a terrific cook!). It could be alot of fun as well!I'd suggest next spring after the weather has broken but if you need a crash course sooner HF give me a shout, I don't think you're too far away from me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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