Ewa Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 We're heading out to Normandy to start separating the first floor into bedrooms/bathrooms and have had the following materials recommended to us:95mm CLS100mm Rockwool batsLaFarge pink boards (the fire check ones)My questions are:1. What is CLS known as in France?2. I know Rockwool is known as either Laine de Roche or even just Rockwool, but is it easy to find and roughly how much should we expect to pay?3. Are the pink LaFarge boards easily available, and what sort of price per board (2440x1220mm) are we looking at?I've gathered a lot of info from reading previous posts, but the products recommended to us by a dry liner we know are the weapons of choice for the time being - don't fancy trying the metal framework system, even after reading the pros and cons.Thanks for all your help in info being passed about on the forum... have learnt a lot, but much more to gather!Ewa27 & Devon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 hi ok question 1 What is CLS known as in France? canadian lumber stock or CLS in France with all the wood we have here never ! your best bet on this is roofing joists called " Chevrons" they are 75x63 . you can pay say €1 to €1.50 a meter depending on promos . I done all my stud work with them cost last year in brico depot was €4.05 for a 4 mtr length.2 100mm Rockwool bats laine de verre is glass wool and panneau de laine de verre are the pannels but only seen them in 45mm ( to fit in the metal studding) they are€1.60 each for a 0.6x1.35m x45mm.3 Are the pink LaFarge boards easily available, and what sort of price per board (2440x1220mm) are we looking at? sorry cannot help you on this one never seen them but never looked for them so cannot say. but std plaster board is 1.2m x 2.5 x 13 this is €6 .5 to € 7.5 a sheet depending again on promo`s best i can do and hope it helps dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Trollope Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Laine de roche - Rockwool is available (in Brittany at least) about 2x the price of fibreglass (which is much more readily available). There are versions (as Dave says) for use vertically, which don't slump.Never seen pink plasterboard - why do you need fire stop board? For a bathroom, most would use green (hydrofuge) board, which is water resistant. To improve fire rating, use metal studding and double up the board. Although I still wonder why you need it in a domestic application.PS. Use metal studding anyway. Sorry Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewa Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 Thanks for your help guys. Re pink plasterboard: we were recommended to use this rather than standard plasterboard as it is more dense, thus giving more soundproofing, but in truth I think we would only use it in the stairwell as a fire stop.Looks like we have to go with the flow and use what is easily available and not get hung up on exact specifications from professionals in the UK!Don't like the idea of all the itchy stuff with fibreglass so will search around for Rockwool or it's equivalent (I gather an option is 100mm Celotex?).Interesting how some products we take for granted that they're universal, such as timber sizes, so I'm grateful for your input Dave & Nick.ThanksEwa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeb Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Yes, the pink plasterboard is available at most builders merchants, we used it in one area of bedroom to cover the old chimney bricks (after we'd rendered them first as they still looked slightly dodgey to me!!). It's expensive though. As Nick suggests, use the green board (hydrofuge) for shower-rooms and tile over. Without wanting to start an arguement, we metal railed throughout - when in Rome etc. It's much quicker than sawing wood, very easy to install (buy the right tools) and we're both very happy with the results. In certain places for accoustic insulation we doubled up.If you're plasterboarding the interior of a south facing roof/wall, use the most expensive foil sandwich insulation that you can afford. It will deflect the heat and keep the room cool in the summer which is really important if you are going to sleep in a converted grenier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewa Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 Thanks for your advice Zeb. I understand about the when in Rome scenario, but my OH (who will be doing the work) has only used the timber version so is understandably reluctant to go in cold again with a new method. Can you combine the two? For example, upstairs we have a bathroom and two bedrooms, one with an ensuite. If we use the timber version for the bedroom with the ensuite, could we use the metal version at the other end of the barn to do the other room? Or would it be inadvisable to mix the two? Just a thought as he's doing it in stages!Re the foil sandwich, not sure if we need to worry about keeping heat out in Normandy, more a case of keeping it in!! Last visit just before the new year we had 18 inches of snow to contend with - fun trying to get over the Pont de Normandie in that with a fully laden car, I can tell you!Ewa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gastines Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Agree with N.T. about the metal stud. Much easier to use/fireproof/rotproof etc and a big bonus is the light weight. If you have to transport it and if you have to put a lot of studding up,it is much much easier than timber and it's STRAIGHT, unaffected by heat/damp. For an hour firebreak, board as normal then board again with a different centre for joins. Easier to install trunking for electrics and plumbing also.Regards. B&B St.Malo ourinns.org Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewa Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 But Gastines, I have heard so much about the flimsiness of the studding (albeit before boarding) and what about attaching things to the stud wall after boarding (eg heavy fixings for cabinets or mirrors)? Can the metal version be as 'flexible' in terms of attaching things to it? Ewa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Trollope Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 [quote user="Ewa"]But Gastines, I have heard so much about the flimsiness of the studding (albeit before boarding) and what about attaching things to the stud wall after boarding (eg heavy fixings for cabinets or mirrors)? Can the metal version be as 'flexible' in terms of attaching things to it? Ewa[/quote]I don't want to start this discussion again, but ......!!!Metal is better. There are few circumstances that wood is better. I have hung kitchens, shelves doors TV brackets etc etc on it & it is not flimsy (when finished with the board in place).If you want to (eg.) hang litchen wall cabinets, simply slide a bit of 19x100mm timber (floorboard) horizontally inside the vertical pieces (montant) at the right height. Much easier than trying to find studs or using blind fixings.....Honest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewa Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 Methinks we'll have to seriously consider this option. If there is so much strong feeling about the metal method there must be some good in it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monika Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 What about fixing things after the studwall is up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monika Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Sorry my question was incomplete: you mean, Nick that you can just screw into the plasterboard to hang pictures etc. what about shelves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeb Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Use "Mollies" (that's what they are called on the packet in French bricos). Difficult to describe but you screw them in and they open up behind the plaster. They hold quite a weight as our kitchen wall units/large pictures and mirrors etc are held up with them.Our plumber asked us to reinforce with wood behind the plasterboard to take the weight of the radiators though.If you do go down the metal railing route, buy the special crimper/cutter and screw bit tools. They are quite expensive but makes the task very much quicker - even I can do it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gastines Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 As an add on to advice already given on the benefits of metal studding.You can obviously get different widths and grades but the usual stock is OK for domestic work. One thing I used to do is board all of one side first ,eg. leaving the metal work on one side exposed, then you can put all your trunking in for cables and place the interior room plaster board boxes for your switches/sockets. Double boarding , even on one side if looking for economy, as well as added fire break,also gives amore solid wall and soundproofing. If you are near to St.Malo I have all the gear you can borrow for a few weeks. You will need to get a supply of fastfix screws and jointing tape/cement. You can get a perfect finish for emulsion or wallpaper quite easily.[If you take your time ]P.S. I didn't only deal in Antiques!!Regards. B&B St.Malo. ourinns.org Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewa Posted June 28, 2006 Author Share Posted June 28, 2006 Thank you Gastines - will keep your kind offer in mind. I think he may be persuaded to try what appears to be the preferred option in France! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 ok and hi Nick just a few thoughts since last posting and a few tips I have learnt the hard way since living here and a few pro`s and con`s on wood stud work . ok first you can get more issolation behind the wood studding and still leave and air gap I just cut up the 100mm x1.2 mt wide rolls up with my trusted elecy bread knife into 3 and staple the vapour barrier papper to the wood brilliant for walls . going back to chevrons " roofing joists " they do vary from area to area here in 79 they are like i said 63x75 but 12miles down the road they are 80 x 75, 10 miles up the road 50x75 so beware on that one . you can vapour barrier the whole celling when using wood stud work and cross batternsnow Nick for you I will never use wood again for the attic ceilings it`s so easy with the metal hangers to get it flat if you buy the cheap doors and frames they fit the metal frame work , you will have to make sub door frames for them to fit into.ok the last one if you are using the metal stuff in the kitchen just put sheet plywood behind it in places where the you know the wall cabnets are going to be and pack out the rest of the wall dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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