CeeJay Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 I have bought two new internal doors, complete with frames as you do here, however when I ripped out the old frame I found a discrepancy in the width. The new frame is 7cms narrower than the opening. I am not sure what would be the best method of tackling this. The easiest, for me, would seem to be to fix another piece of wood either side of the opening at about 3cms and then fix the frame to this. I have thought about using foam but this would mean I have to fix the frame first and that is the difficulty whilst trying to keep the frame square. I would appreciate any suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chancer Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Everyone will probably tut tut but pro gun grade foam will be more than man enough for the job, I made an error then compounded it (long story) on my first floor windows, they are now firmly held in with 5 cm of foam all around and no fixings, they are solid as a rock, you do need to ensure that no foam is left exposed to the sunlight though, shouldnt cause you a problem internally.What I now do with all windows and doors is to prop/wedge/whatever the whole assembly including transit packers into the opening making sure that it is level and plumb and then off we go with the moussse, with doors I do use fixings afterwards as ceinture et bretelles but it has the advantage of not distorting the frame once the foam has hardened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty Sam Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Put the door/frame in required position and pack out with timber offcuts between frame and wall. Make permanent fixing through the frame and packing pieces into the wall.Fill the gap with expanding foam. Once dry, cut away excess foam and apply decorative trim around frame which with a bit of luck will cover and hide the foamed gap completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 'Folding wedges' ie. shallow angle timber wedges pushed gently in from each side till they 'lock together' Do this round the frame behind hinge locations and in the horizotal opposite between frame and walls. drill and fatsen through to create a mechanical fixing which pulls up on the wedges.Gun in with gun grade foam then cut of the excess once cured (inc excess 'wedge') plaster and architrave as necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pachapapa Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 What I do is to drill 10mm holes in the frame uprights stick 10 cm lengths of reinforcing bar with a dab of resin and catalyst on the end, same in the wall with stone or parpaings, shutter the sides and xfill with a strong mortar.Cheaper than foam![:)] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeeJay Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Thanks for all the replies chaps.I went down the route of packing pieces and expanding foam..........what a mess, the foam refused to stick to the wall even though I had sprayed it with water, and finished up on the floor, so wearing the gloves they supply I had to scoop it up and wodge it in by hand!! I now have to buy some more foam to foam on top of foam!A carpenter I ain't, especially after my wife suggested next time get some one in, still, I have learnt lessons for when I do the next one!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chancer Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I bet a pound to a piece of **** that you were using an aerosol can of foam.Dont waste your money, invest in a pro gun and buy the cartridges (they work out slightly cheaper by volume) and you will have ultimate control and you too can be surnommé La Roi de la mousse like me!Plus you always have to throw the aerosol cans away as they never work the second time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeeJay Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 Yes, absolutely right Chancer, and to cap it all I inspected it this morning and it had not hardened, it was like marshmallow!!!! Spent today ripping it all out and trying to pack with offcuts to screw plasterboard to. This is an obviously ongoing saga and nightmare for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeeJay Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Well, I have fixed that door ok and quite pleased, it actually opens and closes like it says on the tin!!However I have now started to fix the second door and have banged out the old frame ready for the new one, but found that the wall, attached thereto is built of very thin red brick type things with the holes facing the opening. I have to make a fixing for the frame but not sure how I should fill in the holes in order for me to screw the frame to, any suggestions please. The old frame was not fixed to the door wall part as it continued up to the ceiling and presumably fixed further up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellybelly Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Hi CeeJay,Sorry i'm no use to you in your quest to fit your other door, but having read the thread I just couldn't help but laugh.I had the same experience with the aerosol foam when trying to "block" in some old beams, I ended up with it all over the gloves, all over my cloths, in my hair on the floor, etc etc !!!!!!I have a picture of you in my head now pulling out your hair........best of luck with the other door, I'm sure someone will be along to best advise.Giggle Giggle......Mel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 [quote user="CeeJay"]Well, I have fixed that door ok and quite pleased, it actually opens and closes like it says on the tin!!However I have now started to fix the second door and have banged out the old frame ready for the new one, but found that the wall, attached thereto is built of very thin red brick type things with the holes facing the opening. I have to make a fixing for the frame but not sure how I should fill in the holes in order for me to screw the frame to, any suggestions please. The old frame was not fixed to the door wall part as it continued up to the ceiling and presumably fixed further up.[/quote]nudge nudge same issue, comments appreciated.. these bricks look very flimsy, and fragile, and may be flimsier still when they are cut again to take some electrical wiring as well as new door frames , but assume the french have lived with them and use them, so its just technique.. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Gun grade foam is also delivered 'denser' and will best 'connect' to friable terra cotta brick. If you mask the new frame with 2 inch masking tape likewise the nearest 'clean' edges of the wall ...clean up is a whole lot simpler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 [quote user="BIG MAC"]Gun grade foam is also delivered 'denser' and will best 'connect' to friable terra cotta brick. If you mask the new frame with 2 inch masking tape likewise the nearest 'clean' edges of the wall ...clean up is a whole lot simpler. [/quote] foam solution for all [:)] thnks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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