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EU Move to force a change away from halogen lights


Frederick
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[quote user="Jonzjob"]As I said Mint, you can change them, but you will also need a led transformer as leds run on DC current and halogen run on both AC & DC. Halogen lights usually have an AC transformer hence the need to change it.

I fitted 2 of THESE  and something very similar to THIS and they work a treat. All you need to connect them is some chocolat block connectors and, if you aren't sure about the change, an electriction [kiss]
[/quote]

Sorry but that is dangerous information based on an assumption that all are the same and they are not. The Electrolux cooker hoods use different types of halogen lamps. Some take 60W (equivalent) candle bulbs others take short tubular ones, some take the tiny two wire plug in 12V and some take 240V halogen spots and others 12V halogen spots. This is why we really need to know model number.

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Jonz and Q, how kind and helpful you both are.  Apologies, I can't do any links but here is the model:

Electrolux EFA50700W

Thanks in anticipation. 

I've not had a great chance sourcing hoods suitable for islands but is NOT stainless and fitted with LEDs!

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This is the (candle) bulb used in your cooker hood

http://shop.electrolux.co.uk/product/4055178703/Cooker+Hood+Lamp

A typical replacement lamp of the same 'power output' would be

http://bulbs2go.co.uk/crompton-4w-led-candle-opal-daylight-wattage-equivalent-25w-lcses4dl.html

Simply unscrew one and replace with the other.

The only thing I would say is that these style of LED bulbs have a piece of 'card' sitting vertically inside them with LEDS attached to both sides where as the existing lamp is translucent inside. This means when you screw the LED lamp in it will depend on the angle of the card to the 'lens' of the cooker hood as to how much light you will get. Basically you could end up, in the worse case, with half the light. My personal recomendation and seeing that the hood will be under warranty and that we are only talking 28W each I wouldn't change them. I am sure somebody will come along and say 'rubbish' but if it ain't broke and it's under warranty why fix it?

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[quote user="Quillan"]

This is the (candle) bulb used in your cooker hood

http://shop.electrolux.co.uk/product/4055178703/Cooker+Hood+Lamp

A typical replacement lamp of the same 'power output' would be

http://bulbs2go.co.uk/crompton-4w-led-candle-opal-daylight-wattage-equivalent-25w-lcses4dl.html

Simply unscrew one and replace with the other.

The only thing I would say is that these style of LED bulbs have a piece of 'card' sitting vertically inside them with LEDS attached to both sides where as the existing lamp is translucent inside. This means when you screw the LED lamp in it will depend on the angle of the card to the 'lens' of the cooker hood as to how much light you will get. Basically you could end up, in the worse case, with half the light. My personal recomendation and seeing that the hood will be under warranty and that we are only talking 28W each I wouldn't change them. I am sure somebody will come along and say 'rubbish' but if it ain't broke and it's under warranty why fix it?

[/quote]

Card? it's not card it's part of the chip's heat sink, aluminium. I would change them, the lamp wouldn't invalidate a warranty because it's not a warranty part, it's a replaceable part and whilst using a 360 degree lamp that you don't really want and you only want the light to shine down on to the hob other lamps are available. All depending on what's fitted really, discuss after purchase.

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Mint is not technically minded in case you had not noticed so I try and keep things simple so as not to confuse her. Considering she is going to have LEDs for everything else and the heat given off from the hob, warranty etc. I stick with what I said, not to change these bulbs.
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I have read that halogen lamps on hobs can make the cooking area very hot.  My main concern, however, is that I will be buying a hob and be forever stuck with halogen.

Now that I know that the lights can be changed, I will likely as not use the original halogen lamps until they conk out and then change to LEDs.  Therefore, both your advice, Q and Teapot, is very relevant to me.

Going to order the hood today, hooray!  I have organised the transporter so I hope that all systems go[:D]

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[quote user="mint"]I have read that halogen lamps on hobs can make the cooking area very hot.  [/quote]

I have had them in both my cooker hoods and I can honestly say I have never noticed so it can't be that much. If the hood is vented to the exterior, which is best to get ride of smells, then the heat will 'convect' to the outside anyway.

PS. I noticed looking at the parts list that the filters are the same as the Brico Depot ones. Perhaps finally somebody has come with an idea of standardising them all or Brico Depot brand hoods are made by Philips (which I doubt).

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Its the use of standard parts that allows interchangeable filters in this case. People report on forums about domestic appliances being better than some other make, same with lawnmowers etc etc when in reality they come out of the same factory but with different labels. Handy in some cases like near universal hood filters but it also means lack of innovation and poorer performing products. When companies design they do it with catalogues of parts they require which are bought in from actual manufacturing companies elsewhere and often not related to the assembly company. It's just the way it's done now.
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I have eye level microwave ovens in the space where a cooker Hood would sit, it leaves the hob in shade so I used to have twin halogen batten type fittings, the light was OK but they used a lot of electric and did get very hot, but then they are above a hob so why should that matter?

In my case it was when I mopped up any splashes with a damp cloth that the glass over the lamps would crack leaving the very very hot halogen bulb exposed, they would also blow failrly regularly like all halogen lamps.

I replaced then with some very slick silver floursecent battens bought from Lidl, they can be swivelled to give the perfect angle over the hob or surrounding work areas, I now have great LED eclairage in the kitchen but still had a shadwo over the hob even though a microwave sticks out less than a cooker Hood, I used a lightmeter and found that with the flourescent turned on the light level was even higher than elsewhere in the kitchen which is now very well lit.

I am still a fan of the traditional flourescent tubes, its just the compact flouresecent bulbs that are rubbish.

How do the LED replacement tubes compare to the flourescent ones?

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If your talking bulbs and not tubes then after 'striking' they take longer to come to full brightness where as LED's are either off or on. Tubes get brighter but because of the size and shape you don't notice so much. Hence the joke about peeing on your foot when you visit the toilet in the night if you have fluorescent bulbs.
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[quote user="Chancer"]

How do the LED replacement tubes compare to the flourescent ones?

[/quote]

That's a good question, there are lots of similar ones around but on one development I visit they are still getting through LED tubes at a surprising rate. Not sure if they have a guarantee on them as it's early days for me on that development but the light output is poor by my reckoning.

I have a Lidl one 1200mm and that's quite good but I have details and I am waiting for info from a new company which makes outstanding tubes, really outstanding so wait a while.

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[quote user="mint"]Jonz and Q, how kind and helpful you both are.  Apologies, I can't do any links but here is the model:

Electrolux EFA50700W

Thanks in anticipation. 

I've not had a great chance sourcing hoods suitable for islands but is NOT stainless and fitted with LEDs!

[/quote]

Well, I bought the hood AFTER querying it with the wood-be installer (I say "would-be" because I think I have found someone else today to do the job with a lot less fuss) and he assured me it would be fine.

So, Q and Jonz, could I please prevail upon you to take another look at the hood.  It now appears that the round tubey thing is quite short and so would be quite high up so much so that I wouldn't be able to reach the controls!

Now the man who came today said that he might be able to do something with the controls so that I could switch the thing off and on from a switch on the wall;  Otherwise, this will be yet another thing that I will have to get out my trusty kick-step in order to switch it on (although I think that it will switch itself off after a while)!

Any ideas anyone, svp?

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