Chris Head Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 In truth the subject of depth gauge settings is really quite complicated and very much down to experience and personal preference.95% of you will be happy that your saw is hacking through wood, and the chains most of you are using will be designed so that they still cut without worrying about depth guages.The depth gauge is situated directly in front of the cutter...[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01176.jpg[/IMG]It dictates the depth that the cutter enters the timber, in short, if it's filed too short the cutters will enter the timber too aggressively, if it's not filed at all the cutter won't enter the timber efficiently and although the chain may be sharp you'll find yourself having to exert pressure on the bar to heave it through the timber.The more the chain is sharpened the lower it's profile becomes and therefore the depth gauge has to be adjusted accordingly to suit the height of the cutter tooth.The subject really is a complex one and you'll just have to experiment. Just to give an example, I have a 45cm bar that I mount on a Husqvarna 3195 xpg, the chain is 3/8 semi-chisel and the depth gauges are roughly 1mm lower than they should be, that makes for a seriously powerful combination, but the same chain mounted in say, a 346xp would probably cause the saw to stall, the 346 wouldn't have the power to pull the chain. Now take into account different chain types, saw power, bar lengths, timber species, types of cut and it's just too complicated to write properly about.Chain TensionA bit simpler to explain.For normal everyday crosscutting you should roughly be able to just about see the bottom of the drive link when you moderately pull the chain in the middle of the bar.[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01179.jpg[/IMG]Don't get hung up about the chain flying off the bar and overtighten it, you'll risk more by overtightening than you will by undertightening.For ripping, there are other factors, condition and wear of the bar are vital, chain tension is more important than for crosscutting, the chain needs to be just a wee bit tighter, about half the drivelink showing when moderate pressure is applied when pulling the chain in the middle of the bar.It's not easy to write about stuff that should really be explained in person. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bud Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 Good useful info there. Thanks for posting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted November 16, 2006 Author Share Posted November 16, 2006 My supplies are firmly in place Robin! I'm nibbling away at some of the local farmers too, there's alot of timber around here but it takes an age to develop good relationships with the locals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre ZFP Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 Brilliant! Thank you!!Now, how about making an instructional video? I'm sure it would be a best seller with all those chain saws (yes even the electric ones) flying out of the DIY stores to people with no clue how to use them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWINKLE Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 Yes an instructional video would be very informative for those interested in chainsaws[Www] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre ZFP Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 [quote user="TWINKLE"]Yes an instructional video would be very informative for those interested in chainsaws[Www][/quote]It's a Boy thing........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted November 16, 2006 Author Share Posted November 16, 2006 Don't mind Twinkle Pierre, she's Welsh....'nuff said! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre ZFP Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Well, I sharpened my chainsaw as instructed above and guess what? It sliced up my logs like the proverbial knife through butter!A very big thank you for that one!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 Glad it worked for you Pierre, practice makes perfect though, once you get used to sharpening it just becomes an automatic thing to do, and you soon get to realise when the chain isn't performing quite how it could be.Keep safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Chris, I was always under the impression that the depth gauge wore down as the cutting was worn. This meant that the sharpening of the cutting edge kept in in synch with the depth gauge. I will have to rethink my thinking (I think?)? What is the best way to align the depth gauge with the cutting adge. As you know it is all flexible. Perhapse the way is to put a straight edge along the top of the straight part of the chain bar and measure the difference between the cut and the gauge?Have you got the chain shaprening kit for your Dremel Chris? I have had a look at it a couple of times, but I go back to my file...I do like mutton!! [6] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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