confused of chalus Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 Is there an easier way of fitting ordinary plasterboard between very old roof beams short of making a template round all the curves and ins and outs for each section, once wooden battens have been fitted to the sides of the beams?? This is obviously very time consuming and I just want to make sure I am not missing a trick!! Thanks for any advice offered Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Âme Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I haven't tried this yet, but it's on my 'to do' list. I am planning to cut each board to rough shape (with straight-ish edges), fit to the batons, then back fill the gaps with plaster. BTW what are you using for insulation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 Cost cutting, I now use the metal railings from stud walls which are a fraction the price of timber battens.They screw just as easilly to the beams...I cut the boards in 120cm widths, nothing longer as its hard to single handedly screw up...Cut fractionally oversized, then offer up and pencil the bits that need shaping...Use a tool, hand held rasper thingy that shaves off the unwanted areas...Then, the worst bit, fill all the lines...I use slightly drier than norm jointing compound.....Labouious, but effective..Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Âme Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 Top tips, thanks Stuart. Do you put the jointing compound into some kind of a "piping bag"? (my baking vocab is better than my diy!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
confused of chalus Posted November 17, 2008 Author Share Posted November 17, 2008 We have used TrispaceHabitat 14 layer foil insulation which seems to go up fairly easily with a staple gun and is not toxic - it was on special offer at our local Moreau's. Good luck when you do it - it's laborious but not impossible!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 I guess speed comes from practice...I put the mix on a mortar board and apply with several sized filling blades.The trouble can arise on larger gaps, the jointing will slowly fall out unless it is quite a stiff mix. And even worse, if you're going for a flat result, you'll have to rub down and second fill everywhere. (Do not joint over untaped joints it will eventually show cracks) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Âme Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 Thanks Confused & Stuart. Plastering is my nemesis. I have come to relax my initial standards in the 'flat result' department!! I went to art college, so have a license to call it creative. [;-)] Perhaps some kind of shuttering would help to hold it in place while it's drying... I might try a ratched gun (like a grease gun) filled with jointing compound, see if I can squirt it in. Though I'll probably spend just as much time filling the gun as if I used trowels! Have you heard of "blowing in treated recycled newspaper" type insulation? It's supposed to be a very effective insulator. I guess you need to close off the gap between the top of the wall and the underside of the tiles with something to keep it in place. I'm asking mainly in case you have, and know of any down sides.You both said 'laborious,' I'm going off this job in spades!! Sounds right tricky, but needs must. And I bet you get great finished result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Posted November 17, 2008 Share Posted November 17, 2008 If you get mice enter the gap behind the boards , they are bad enough with the fiberglass insulation...They'll thank you eternally for shredded paper... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Âme Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Yes, perhaps. The Warmcel blurb says it's rodent, insect & fire resistant but then, it would, wouldn't it?! I've only just got rid of loirs. I'll have to give it more thought but it's amazingly cost effective & seems easy to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
confused of chalus Posted November 18, 2008 Author Share Posted November 18, 2008 Excuse my ignorance stuart - but what exactly do you mean by jointing compound? We were planning to fill with a polycel type filler. Should we be getting more specialist stuff, if so what? The rasp tool seems to be doing the job ok, thank you for the tip. And as for insulation, we went for the thin foil so we could make sure there was an air gap above and below the material - thus improving the insulation. Our French builder thinks we are mad - he wanted to cover the beams with pine cladding with loads of fibreglass behind it and says we wont have enough insulation. We decided to take the risk and go for it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 Enduit a joint...Various sized bags...Mix with water, and when dried, so soft/easy to rub back.WWW.homepratik.fr.It's the specific product for jointing boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerdesal Posted November 18, 2008 Share Posted November 18, 2008 [quote user="confused of chalus"]Excuse my ignorance stuart - but what exactly do you mean by jointing compound? We were planning to fill with a polycel type filler. Should we be getting more specialist stuff, if so what? The rasp tool seems to be doing the job ok, thank you for the tip. And as for insulation, we went for the thin foil so we could make sure there was an air gap above and below the material - thus improving the insulation. Our French builder thinks we are mad - he wanted to cover the beams with pine cladding with loads of fibreglass behind it and says we wont have enough insulation. We decided to take the risk and go for it![/quote] I must admit I cant agree with the builders idea of covering the beams, but why exactly will an air gap above and below the foil improve the insulation? Insulation value between trapped surfaces is related to U value and thickness. I assume that there are existing ceiling boards above the beams and a ventilated roof space (loft) above them, or are you isulating and cladding between the A frame beams, which is of course a totally different scenario, requiring ventilation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
confused of chalus Posted November 18, 2008 Author Share Posted November 18, 2008 Yes Steve we are insulating between the A frame beams under the roof tiles and a plastic membrane so, as you say we need ventilation. Thanks for your comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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