Salt pool going green

[Domp80]

Hi all

We have a saline pool which had been stable for the last 6 months or so. However we noticed some growth on the bottom and so added a few bags of salt and some algae treatment chemical. We have now managed to clean the bottom of the pool but know things aren't right.

PH tends to be around 7.4 but doing the chorine test tells us that it is way too low.

We have a bio-pool duo system pictured here at the bottom http://www.piscinepassion.fr/acc_traitement.htm with the electrolyse value on the highest option (100). I am fast running out of ideas - could it be some kind of electrode problem ?

 

 

 

[Suze01]

How old is the salt system? I've read that the cells only have a lifespan of a few years depending on water conditions. It could be that the cell is at the end of its life and so is not producing much chlorine. Do you run it all year round?

[chirpy]

Have you checked chlorine level?

Does chlorinater show bubbles i.e. is producing chlorine when you switch on.

What is temp. of pool and which area are you in -it seems strange if it is going green unless water above 10centigrade or did you winterise pool last autumn with a material to suppress growth in winter time.

My pool once went green as it was not ciculated enough and chlorine level was too low.

If you choc. dose pool and keep circulating water for 3 days it should start to clear.-you can buy these products.

Did you clean chlorinater cell of deposits before winterisation?

A FULLER REPORT OF MY PROBLEM WAS POSTED LAST MAY OR JUNE.

LET ME KNOW HOW IT TURNS OUT.

[Suze01]

[quote user="Ab"]

Have you checked chlorine level?

Does chlorinater show bubbles i.e. is producing chlorine when you switch on.

[/quote]

The original poster did mention that he'd checked the chlorine levels and they were 'way too low'.

The cell should not have any air in it (according to the instruction on my unit any way - but I suppose different models... [;-)] ), so there shouldn't be 'bubbles' coming off it.  What you should see is slightly 'milky' looking water flowing off it - that is the chlorinated water.

[Mr Coeur de Lion]

Had the same problem in my saltwater pool in Oz. Tried everything until finally we put a new cartridge filter in. Then perfect. How olds your filter?

[Domp80]

Hmm -not sure how old the cell is - only moved in last summer. I have tried cleaning it today with "chlorihydrique" acid and can confirm that it did look pretty crusted up. I will check the chlorine level again tomorrow to see if theres any improvement.

Fingers crossed !

 

[Poolguy]

Hi

Salt systems have nearly the same reactions an problems irrespective of the

Brands. Some however are more 'basic' than others and can therefore be more temperamental.

You problem sounds to me as though you electrodes are not producing. Now this

may be because of a number of reasons. You say that you have checked the salt

levels and I presume that you maintained the recommended level as per the instruction,

which should be between 3500 ppm and 6000ppm, with the average around 4000ppm.

If the Systems is still not producing enough chlorine then there could be two

possibilities.

Either the cells are calcified or damaged. Calcification is a normal part of

the operation the same as the lime scale in your electric jug or washing

machine. Some Electrolysers have a reverse polarity function, which effectively

'cleans' the calcium deposit of the electrodes. This should be easy enough to

fix and I read that you have immersed the electrodes into Hydrochloric acid,

which should bring them up like new. However, if there has been a long history

of neglect with respect to the maintenance of good salt levels then its

possible that the precious metal has 'pitted' or eroded of the titanium plate.

This will mean that there is a much reduced surface area conducting the electricity.

To verify if your cell is operating normally or damaged is relatively simple.

Having cleaned it in acid, you now should put the cell into a bucket full of

(salty) pool water taking care not to immerse the two terminals and then turn

the electricity on. If your electrodes are in good condition then the water in

the bucket should FIZZZ madly, bubbling and giving a great performance. If it doesn’t

or the performance is lack lustre then it is sure that you electrodes are shot

and for you there's nothing for it but a trip to the pool shop to buy a new set

of electrodes.

I must here again emphasise as I have done on many occasions. A salt system is

NOT an automatic system or anything like it. You MUST test your salt levels and

keep them up to the recommendations. You MUST test your pH and keep it within

the band of 7.2 to 7.6. If you do not then you system will fail and your pool

water will be prone to algae and other chemical balance problems. So from these

points of view its important to have a good understanding of the performance

and the normal operating conditions of the parametric system you have chosen

and maintain regularly to keep it there.

Hope that this has been helpful.

Andrew

[Domp80]

[:D]Thanks everyone.

A couple of doses of hydrochloric acid did the trick

[Graham & Brenda]

What is the best way to check the correct salt levels please? I have a salt pool which has run perfectly for 2 years without regular checking - just adding some extra bags of salt at the beginning of the season. I would be reassured though if I could take out the guesswork and ensure I'm running it properly. Thanks,

 

 

[Suze01]

I use dip-sticks bought from a pool shop.

[chirpy]

Anyone know what Newcil measures in ppm?

Second question-are all salt tablets compatible with Clearwater chlorinateri.e.  -is Aquaswim stabilised salt replaceable with any salt(sodium chloride) tablets as former are 19.88euro for 25 kilos.