Ty Korrigan Posted August 14, 2005 Share Posted August 14, 2005 Hello all, I am attracted to this system because of its ease of installation. My question is how much more expensive is it than copper to use. A little lazy of me not to have worked it out for myself I know! Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceni Posted August 15, 2005 Share Posted August 15, 2005 Probably a stupid answer but here goes anyway - go down to yr local supplier with a shopping list and price it all. There are regional variations in prices so the experience of others may not be relevant.Johnnot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Trollope Posted August 15, 2005 Share Posted August 15, 2005 I all depends on how you cost your time. Yes, it is more expensive (probably 3x the price, although straight runs are cheaper, joints are very very expensive compared to copper). BUT, it takes 1/10th of the time to install.I love it (although I tend to use a mix of PER & copper). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ty Korrigan Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 Installed! Fisher price plumbing for ages 10 upwards.I don't care about the price, it great fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garlic Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 I hope this isn't a stupid question but I've been looking at PER plumbing and it looks like I could use it. When we had water put into our house (just cold supply) this is what the plumber used to take the supply to the top of the house. I want to fit a chauffe eau and what I want to know is can PER connect directly to it or does that connection have to be a soldered joint? If I can use PER I reckon I can do it if not then I suppose I need to find a plumber to do that connection...any advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Trollope Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 [quote]I hope this isn't a stupid question but I've been looking at PER plumbing and it looks like I could use it. When we had water put into our house (just cold supply) this is what the plumber used to tak...[/quote]You can connect PER directly to your C-E, using a suitable fitting (probably PER16 to 1/2" Female). Plumb the C-E with 16mm PER, reserve the 12mm stuff for sinks and loos.As Ty K says - dead easy!Who needs a plumber?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyn_Paul Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 For a Central heating system, what would be the longest run you could have in PER? I'm just about to start installing the CH (feels odd sizing rads and inspecting walls to find the best runs when the temperature is in the 30's) but we live in a linear house where the only place to put the boiler is at the far end so from there to the living room (the other end) will be about 30 metres.In the previous systems I've done the boiler has been in the middle of the house and all the runs have been comparatively short, even then they've been in the usual UK mix of 22mm and 15mm.p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suein56 Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 ***Who needs a plumber?! Nick ***Nick I think we do. My husband has been putting together a fitted kitchen in our rented house (maison vide - it really does mean empty) and we have come to a dead halt at the moment. As there is no way to turn off the hot water supply from our chauffe eau we are stymied. Either, it seems to us, we have to drain down the 200L ballon or we have to call in a plumber and let him scratch his head over this. The house is just 10 years old but there are no isolation taps anywhere, not even in the region of the ballon.Does anyone have any helpful thoughts on this problem?Sue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Redman Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 [quote]***Who needs a plumber?! Nick *** Nick I think we do. My husband has been putting together a fitted kitchen in our rented house (maison vide - it really does mean empty) and we have come to a dea...[/quote]First turn off the power to the CdE, run enough hot water out for a shower or washing up. Turn off the mains. The stop cock may even be in the garden or road but road but will be by water meter. Leave a bit of time for the outlet pipes to cool down. You should then be able to disconnect the hot water pipe from the CdE and install a stop cock / valve. The water should not come gushing out because the air cannot enter the cylinder. It may dribble out so have towels and a washing up bowl handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyn_Paul Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 Unless you have a very odd chauffeau, it will be possible to turn off the cold into the beast at the groupe de securitie (that lump of cast stuff attached to the input which comprises the stopcock,the pressure limiter and the overflow) there's normally a blue plastic 1/4-turn tab. Because the hot water feeds from a pipe at the top of the inside of the tank if you cut off the cold going into it, it will only pass a few litres of hot and then stop. If you disconnect the hot pipe it will need stopping up to prevent the air glooping in, and the water glooping out.If you are adding runs to the hot system in solder and copper, I would recommend working backwards towards the 'wet' end of the system, ending up with a compression fitting to join the wet to the dry.paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suein56 Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 Thanks for the replies for our chauffe eau query - I have shown them to my husband who is considering his next move.We were however (slightly) disconcerted by the posts in the next thread - one white CE hanging on the wall - to discover that is exactly what ours does ... it is 'fixed' by the 2 welded brackets to the garage wall - 200L of hot water and no tripod in sight! I am pleased it is in the garage and not upstairs and is the landlord's responsibility but I dread the thought of it parting company with the wall.Sue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macker Posted September 1, 2005 Share Posted September 1, 2005 Back to the original question, I was looking for a connection from copper pipe to PER tubing when I was advised by a bright spark at Mr. B••••lage that it was perfectly fine to use normal brass compression joints (the ones with the rubber washer and grip ring) for PER pipes. BIG mistake - and of course it happened at 4am! The lesson is, PER is fantastic if expensive but only use the correct joints, nothing else will be reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Trollope Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 [quote]Back to the original question, I was looking for a connection from copper pipe to PER tubing when I was advised by a bright spark at Mr. B••••lage that it was perfectly fine to use normal brass compre...[/quote]You can...Except that you must use a sleeve inside the PER tube to support it (and the compression from the joint). A bit of 12/10 mm pipe will do. But you may as well buy the pukka PER fittings (and a very large Allen key) to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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