Chris Head Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 If I cut gaine or hosepipe and sheath them can I point up over them? The Good Lady is being a bit neurotic about it so I agreed to ask the question before starting. There are no joins, it's a straight run of about 2m.[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01345.jpg[/IMG] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meg Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Do you need to go over them??I think it looks really nice, the copper against the stone, especially if it's nice and straight with no joins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugsy Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Chris, I'm no expert, so this is just an opinion. I would, as M&M have said, leave then exposed. Water pipes do expand and contract so I think if you buried them you will probably have problems. When we bought our house we found all the pipes are exposed, so I polished them. I only did it once and they have now mellowed to quite a nice colour that goes well with our old house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 Hi Chris,Depends on what you are trying to achieve? If your lady wife wants them gone is there a better place to run them?If for some reason you have to run them over stone how about creating a casing scribing the returns back to the stone 9make sure you insulatethe pipes as the wall will just be a heat sink other wise, this way the pipes would be accessible when,or if you need (also a nice way to get sockets on a stone wall if you make the inside twin compartment then tube the cables)I would never bury copper pipe if it does percolate its going to be a real pain to sort out besides which the render would look ugly wouldn't it?A man of your talents coul be making nice Corinthian collumns with decorative capitals, or perhaps some dummy rustic framework? (The Corinthian bit not being serious!)If you like bare pipe why not run it in chromed copper or stainless? on munsen rings and tubeyour electric in similar down to metal clad sockets....thats my plan when dosh alows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyn_Paul Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 [quote user="Chris Head"]If I cut gaine or hosepipe and sheath them can I point up over them? The Good Lady is being a bit neurotic about it so I agreed to ask the question before starting. There are no joins, it's a straight run of about 2m.[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01345.jpg[/IMG][/quote]How exactly do you mean 'point' ? Do you mean bury, or box them in ? it really depends on what temperature variations they will be subject to. Plastic gaines will expand almost as much as the copper, and - having ribs to grip the plaster/mortar - will crack it eventually.p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 [quote user="Chris Head"]If I cut gaine or hosepipe and sheath them can I point up over them? The Good Lady is being a bit neurotic about it so I agreed to ask the question before starting. There are no joins, it's a straight run of about 2m.[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v609/chrishead/DSC01345.jpg[/IMG][/quote]By the way Chris,That organ want a bit of sorting out, or is it a messerschmit exhaust manifold? laughing here....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted January 16, 2007 Author Share Posted January 16, 2007 They can't be moved, they were put there with the intention of hiding them. Boxing in isn't really an option, I'd like to continue the stonework, so they'll effectively be buried P. What about the spongy pipe insulation stuff? I'd like to get stuck in this evening but did promise The Boss that I'd abide by the opinions of those who know better!Can't you change your name BM? I get hungry every time your name pops up[:D] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Redman Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 In an ideal world you should have slid the gaine on before you connected the pipe work ( If I am so clever why am I not rich ?) The spongy pipe insulation stuff should prevent corrosion of the copper pipe. Alternatively replace in PER. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 You say "boxing in" is not a solution. I tend to hide pipes, etc, with "dummy beams" e.g. a large lump of decent wood hollowed out (i.e. U in cross section) to take whatever inside it. Thus the completed thing just looks like a beam resting against the wall.Maybe this is "boxing in" - if so just ignore it.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyn_Paul Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 The foam insulation sleeves will work fine if you can afford the depth. Tape the secctions together to keep the pipes dry. Don't know what lime mortar does to copper but I don't imagine it's any less corrosive to copper than ordinary cement.Good luckp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetwoofus Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 Hiya Cement will eventually eat through the pipes as will lime mortar. you just have to wrap them if cementing over, either in plastic tape or (if the depth is there ) lagging .I dunno about France but here (u.k) you can buy artificial beams ( polystyrene ones) think they have hollow backs . Could be just right ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Redman Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 The beam are available in France and have the marvellous brand name 'Naf' . As a minor down side they are actually more expensive than the real thing in 87. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Plumb Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 The copper will be atacked by the cement and would give you problems accesing the pipe if you needed to at a later date, wrap the pipe with anything allowing the pipe room to expand after covering in morter as if the pipe cant expand from cold to hot around it's width it will add this expantion to it's lengh and could pop the next joint beyond the retriction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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