Dc Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Is it possible to buy plasterboard without bevelled edges as I am going to fill in and insulate between ceiling joists? If not is there something else to use as I intend to metal rail, laine de verre and then cover with plasterboard or something equally cost effective. Any advice greatly appreciated.dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Trollope Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 You can, but why? Unless the gap is exactly straight and a board width, you are going to cut off some or all of the edge. If the bevel remains, it gives you something to fill into, when filling to the beams.. Or you could put it the other way round and joint the edges at rightangles to the beams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dc Posted July 12, 2007 Author Share Posted July 12, 2007 I'm referring to the bevelled edge 6 cms into the placo on both longest sides. Normally they become part of the joints when taping and enduiting. My ceiling joists are about 60 cms apart and 5 metres long and I was hoping to get two strips out of each board to fill 1 gap but don't want to see this bevelling. If I cut it off I won't get 2 strips so am looking for an alternative. Any ideas.dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Redman Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Use it the other way up ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dc Posted July 12, 2007 Author Share Posted July 12, 2007 Genius, why are things so simple? Do you know how it would take paint?dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Redman Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Fine I think. I did a couple of cut sections for wall and realised I could use them on the other sdie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 [quote user="nicktrollope"] You can, but why? Unless the gap is exactly straight and a board width, you are going to cut off some or all of the edge. If the bevel remains, it gives you something to fill into, when filling to the beams.. Or you could put it the other way round and joint the edges at rightangles to the beams. [/quote] hi ok Nicks way is the right way to go ,( it`s the way iv`e done mine here and also back in wales,) if you try and scribe a full length of 2.5 mtr board in one hit you are asking for it to look like a pigs ear , cut the length off the width and saw it with an old wood saw , make sure you saw it face side up ,you will be surprised how easy this is , put in the upright every 1.2 mtrs for the joints . you can see it in this pic i have posted before but still.[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j311/daveolive/27-10-2006131.jpg[/IMG] I have used the metal rail system on this one the rails go on the joists and the uprights are set at 1.2 mtr centres to support the joints ,if you keep the side joints tight you can get away with just filling with plaster and then a second coat of the fine stuff. the tapered parts can be filled as normal, Daveps after[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j311/daveolive/PDR_0058.jpg[/IMG] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powerdesal Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 Dave,Did you sand blast the beams or use paint stripper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 ooops sorry powerdesal 2 differnt rooms Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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