Rich1972 Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Hi I've got a rather derelict single-storey old piggery that I'm trying to renovate. The back wall has partially collapsed, a section about 2 metres wide, but I was planning on rebuilding that. Unfortunately I've since discovered that the tiles all along the back wall have cracked/slipped and for the last decade or so rainwater has been pouring through the rubble-core of the stone wall, to the extent that the wall is still standing (apart from the collapsed section) but has literally no earthen/clay mortar in it whatsoever. It's just the outer facing stones with the rubble interior. You can poke a thin stake from one side all the way through to the other. No mud is to be seen binding the stones together. It's all been washed away. Is it possible to inject the wall with mortar rather than totally rebuilding it? Is repointing by hand even an option given how deep the mortar would have to penetrate? Has anyone had a similar experience? A total rebuild is a) beyond my capability and b) beyond my finances. If the entire 10-metre wall needs to be rebuilt then I think I will have to demolish the structure.Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dog Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 [quote user="Rich1972"]Hi I've got a rather derelict single-storey old piggery that I'm trying to renovate. The back wall has partially collapsed, a section about 2 metres wide, but I was planning on rebuilding that. Unfortunately I've since discovered that the tiles all along the back wall have cracked/slipped and for the last decade or so rainwater has been pouring through the rubble-core of the stone wall, to the extent that the wall is still standing (apart from the collapsed section) but has literally no earthen/clay mortar in it whatsoever. It's just the outer facing stones with the rubble interior. You can poke a thin stake from one side all the way through to the other. No mud is to be seen binding the stones together. It's all been washed away. Is it possible to inject the wall with mortar rather than totally rebuilding it? Is repointing by hand even an option given how deep the mortar would have to penetrate? Has anyone had a similar experience? A total rebuild is a) beyond my capability and b) beyond my finances. If the entire 10-metre wall needs to be rebuilt then I think I will have to demolish the structure.Rich[/quote]Yes ram the same in from either side - it will last another 200 years. Try throwing the mortar at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich1972 Posted January 27, 2009 Author Share Posted January 27, 2009 You mean ram in more earth/clay or mix up a lime mortar and ram that in? I'm excited at the prospect of being able to save the wall though [:)] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnOther Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 On smaller scale I've just finished fitting some rustic briquettes around a fireplace and the grouting was done with what was basically a cake icer which allows the grout to be injected deeply into the cavities, something very difficult to achieve with a trowel. A similar approach might be suitable for your wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dog Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 [quote user="ErnieY"]On smaller scale I've just finished fitting some rustic briquettes around a fireplace and the grouting was done with what was basically a cake icer which allows the grout to be injected deeply into the cavities, something very difficult to achieve with a trowel. A similar approach might be suitable for your wall.[/quote] I wish I was there to watch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich1972 Posted January 27, 2009 Author Share Posted January 27, 2009 [quote user="ErnieY"]On smaller scale I've just finished fitting some rustic briquettes around a fireplace and the grouting was done with what was basically a cake icer which allows the grout to be injected deeply into the cavities, something very difficult to achieve with a trowel. A similar approach might be suitable for your wall.[/quote]Was it a standard Leclerc's-style piping bag or a specialist thing you bought from a DIY store? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnOther Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 I haven't seen the 'standard Leclerc's-style piping bag' but what I had was just a plastic bag which came with the tubs of grout. It held about 1kg of grout at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike151 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 i would stabalise it as best i could by throwing lime mortor as far in as i could & pointing up the outside as well, you could then try &remove a few stones further up & using a shute , try & pour mortor in from above.you could try using something like a big dia flexy hose pipe & funnel ie bigger than 30mm & a very sloppy mix. it'l still set ok. [quote user="Rich1972"]Hi I've got a rather derelict single-storey old piggery that I'm trying to renovate. The back wall has partially collapsed, a section about 2 metres wide, but I was planning on rebuilding that. Unfortunately I've since discovered that the tiles all along the back wall have cracked/slipped and for the last decade or so rainwater has been pouring through the rubble-core of the stone wall, to the extent that the wall is still standing (apart from the collapsed section) but has literally no earthen/clay mortar in it whatsoever. It's just the outer facing stones with the rubble interior. You can poke a thin stake from one side all the way through to the other. No mud is to be seen binding the stones together. It's all been washed away. Is it possible to inject the wall with mortar rather than totally rebuilding it? Is repointing by hand even an option given how deep the mortar would have to penetrate? Has anyone had a similar experience? A total rebuild is a) beyond my capability and b) beyond my finances. If the entire 10-metre wall needs to be rebuilt then I think I will have to demolish the structure.Rich[/quote] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 If its any help, I have seen Ernies "icing bag" in Leroy Merlin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 How about 'Lacing some rebar around the link stones on the vertical plane (Some stones every third course or so will be full width if it was a decent wall) then throw well platicised mortar at a few spots to tie it all together once that has gone off start building the outer leaf back and keep packing the inner void with rough mortar. End result will look traditional but will have some internal mechanical support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnOther Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 Whatever you do please please please don't use bog standard grey cement, it looks appalling with traditional stonework and IMO is little short of vandalism [:'(] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 If I was making a rebar matrix I would use a grey cement mortar in the matrix but lime mortar in the pointing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now