Dry lining stone walls?

[crossy67]

We ant to dry line some of the top floor walls in our house.  What do people think of bonding the boards straight onto the inside walls?  These walls are very dry all year round due to a large over hanging roof.  I was going to stud wall them (like Dave has) but bonding is far quicker, will take less space and cost less.  I know doing so directly onto stone/rendered walls might be a problem but these walls are bone dry all year.  What do you think?

[LesFlamands]

If you're using insulation backed boards, in my experience it's hard to get the joints flat so any time saved fixing the boards is lost when jointing the wall.

[crossy67]

I was just going to use either ordinary boards or green vapour boards.  Our house is built from large lime stone blocks and the internal walls are very flat .  I'm not too bothered about insulation as it's in loft space that isn't used during the winter months.

[nomoss]

I found when glueing placo (using MAP), with or without insulation backing, onto walls, that it has to be held firmly against the wall immediately, to keep it flat and ensure a good bond. The styrofoam backed boards tend to bend towards the insulation and come unstuck halfway down unless braced.

I used stout planks braced against the opposite wall, having everything cut to size so that it could be put quickly in place.

Even so, I found that if a board was moved even slightly after initially offering it up, that the bond was broken.

I had at least two boards that came unstuck in the middle. The ends were fixed solidly, so they could not be removed to reglue them. I wasted a lot of time to eventually screw their centres to the wall, then to plaster over the screw heads and washers I used.

In the house we recently bought, 40mm styrofoam insulated boards glued to walls some years ago virtually fell off once a corner was lifted. The cement blobs didn't break, but a thin layer of the foam came loose, as it has practically no mechanical strength. Of course, they may have stayed in place for years longer, but were really just balanced in place.

In view of all the above I now use an armature, with insulation within it for the outside walls, and screw on the placo.

[Chancer]

If there is any damp that permeates the wall and gets trapped behind the placo you will have a disgusting unhealthy mess behind your apparently clean walls, in my property the old plastered finish behind the doublage was thick with black mould and all the polystyrene had decomposed, when I pulled away the plasterboard millions of billes of polystyrene swept across the floor in waves.

Be cautious!

[NuBeginnings]

This is what happens if you fix directly on Tufo this is an internal wall with roots growing up it not good. The wall must be able to breathe [IMG]http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k562/NBeginningsFrance/Milly%20works/IMG_0758.jpg[/IMG]

[crossy67]

Thanks for the replies so far.

They were tree roots weren't they?  I remember from one of your earlier posts.

Like I said, they are loft spaces that are directly under a 1meter roof over hang and are very dry, they are 10 meters up so no rising damp, tree roots and very little if any rain landing on the exterior of the walls.  I suppose I should have asked was do permanently dry stone walls need to breath?

Ta

Ian

[Cendrillon]

I think they do.

[Chippiepat]

just being nosey, why do you want to plasterboard them? could you not just paint them? even cheaper.

[NuBeginnings]

They were roots. Never the less the stone took weeks to dry out as it had not been able to breathe.

[BIG MAC]

Studded membrane and MF Dry lining is my preferred option