Gardener Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 I am trying to attach base kitchen units to wall which has approx 1 cm plasterboard and fibre insulation behind. The screws that are supposed to do the job aren't doing it as well as Id have hoped. I have used ones with a plastic rawplug that should open out and the other type are metal chevilles à expansion. Still a bit too much movement for my liking, anything I better I can use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Redman Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 I normally secure a wooden battern with screws to hold it is place then glue it before finally attaching the cabinet to the wood.Also if you can find the rails behind the plaster board and use longer plaster board screws to screw into them you will have a better fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quillan Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Funny enough I will be doing this is a couple of days and in a few weeks will have to attache a kitchen wall unit as well. I always measure it all up and then put wood on the inside, screwed or nailed to the uprights before I put the plasterboard up. I then screw through the plasterboard in to the wood behind and its normally a solid as a rock. Some claim you can screw it directly in to the plasterboard but I am afraid I don't trust it done that way even with those special screw fitting you get that screw in to the plasterboard and then the fixing screw screws in to that. OK for hanging a picture or painting but anything heavy seems to wobble or pull out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chancer Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Drill dead centre of the montants if you have them and use the metal chevilles d'expansion, however it sounds like you wall is doublage which is very difficult to get a good fixing into and only being 10mm low quality plasterboard has nowhere near the strentgth of BA13.I always used to hang wall cupboards on a long metal rail of the same profile as the little brackets that come with them, and use loads of plasterbaord fixings like Q has described, they were always rock solid and my kitchen here has them plus a load of appliances in wicker baskets above the wall cupboards adding to the weight without a,y problem yet.However.............................I did the same at my ex's house without realising that it was doublage and the whole lot came crashing down when she put all her toot in the wall cupboards, I ended up having to fix a great sheet of ply through the placo into the wall behind and then hang the cupboards on that.Methinks if you have wall cupboards to fix your problems have not yet started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gardener Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 When the insulation and plasterboarding was done, sadly we hadn't given any thought to the fitting of kitchen. We aren't having wall cupboards so that won't be a concern. I can locate the vertical metal rails behind the units so I'll try and move the brackets into position there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Zoff Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Presumably it will all be hidden by the unit so if the rail idea doesn't work out, you could just slice through the plasterboard, slot in a batten and then screw into that. Provided you use a wide enough batten, the cut ends of the plasterboard can also be tacked to that before screwing up the unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fisherman Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 I have fitted the units in our kitchen with frame fixings. You can buy quite long ones (100 - 120mm) so they will go well into the wall structure behind the plaster board. Less messing around than using batterns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gardener Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 Just had a thought , would toggles work better? I haven't noticed any in France but I haven't looked for them either. I think the screw would be slimmer, but would the toggle provide better anchorage than anything I have used so far? If not I will try out the suggestions mentioned as far as possible.Though the problem with using longer screws is the 10 cm of fibre insulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyh4 Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 http://www.castorama.fr/store/rechercher/chevilles%20plaque%20de%20platre?osearchmode=reg I have used the Molly type shown at the top. Be careful not to drill too big a hole for them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quillan Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 [quote user="andyh4"]http://www.castorama.fr/store/rechercher/chevilles%20plaque%20de%20platre?osearchmode=reg I have used the Molly type shown at the top. Be careful not to drill too big a hole for them[/quote]Actually I was looking through the Bricodepot catalogue in bed last night (I know its sad but Mrs Q is away) and I saw this which reminded me. I have one of these tools and some of the fixings and probably out of all the devices for attaching things to plasterboard this has to be the best system. As you say don't make the hole too big, needs to be a snug fit. I have never put a lot of weight on these but I did uses them to mount the rails for those shelf systems where you slot the arms in the rail and lay your shelf on top and never had a problem.To the OP, if your anything like me when it goes wrong it really goes worng and I would have quite big holes where I wanted to mount whatever on the wall. No good filling hoping to get another fix, it just does not work. To that end and as AR suggested, if the wall is badly damaged I would cut a section out replace it with fresh board and if your doing that then you might just as well fit a wooden batten behind it. By the way I always fit 6" wide just in case I am a bit off with my measurements plus there is more surface area in contact which makes it structurally stronger.I know what its like but then it's the type of mistake you only make once, good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gardener Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 Thanks fr all the advice. The castorama mollys are the type I have used but I don't think they opened up quite as they should, may be I made the hole too big? These are what I have used in the UK and they worked ok but it was on a different type of plasterboard can someone shorten the link please (Photo) I am going out to look at white goods this afternoon and think on the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quillan Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Nop they are not what we are talking about.They are called a "chevilles plaque de plâtre" (click on it to see the photo). You use a tool when you insert them which you squeze and they compress the fitting bringing it up flush and spred at the back of the plaster board.The tool is called a "Pince de pose pour toutes chevilles métalliques" (click on it to see the photo).The next link shows what happens, how they 'spred' although it does not show using the pliers.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-BLACK-DECKER-M4-X-46MM-CAVITY-WALL-FIXINGS-PLASTERBOARD-ANCHORS-PLUGS-/370547828381?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D370528091133%252B370528091133%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D3469338554375043796 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyv Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 The pliers make it a lot easier and safer, but, strictly, you don't need them. The chevilles have a little barb which stops it rotating, and you can use the screw to compress it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gardener Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 The pliers worked a treat,and I used larger chevilles with a smaller hole and all done. Thanks Quillan and all for your splendid explanations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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