BIG MAC Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Anyone know of good links showing how to use these in a retaining wall? Thanks in anticipation... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 One on top of the other works quite well [;-)] Seriously though there would normally be re inforcing vertically through the blocks every 1m-1.5m is what suits the blocks and the load. They also wire in horizontal re bar to vertical reinforcing. The chainage blocks can be use to finish the wall and tie it all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyh4 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 ...and I know you meant it but did not actually say so, once the rebar is in place, fill the voids with concrete. You will need a relatively sloppy mix to flow down to the bottom of the wall, and if the wall is very high you may need to do it in sections - lay 5 high, reinforce, 90% fill with concrete, lay the next 5 layers of blocks etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lehaut Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 and lay it on a good deep foundation with steel rods vertically posed in it to tie into the first layer of hollow block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mint Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Mac, is it a garden retaining wall and not one for a house?If for the garden, it's a good idea to stagger the wall (ie put kinks in it) in fairly short sections. It will be less likely to fall down, will look more attractive and you can put plants or pots of flowers in the resulting niches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 [quote user="mint"]Mac, is it a garden retaining wall and not one for a house?If for the garden, it's a good idea to stagger the wall (ie put kinks in it) in fairly short sections. It will be less likely to fall down, will look more attractive and you can put plants or pots of flowers in the resulting niches.[/quote]Ya kinky humbug [:)] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 A mate of mine had the belt and braces approach and he put butresses into the garden side as well as the rebars. The proof of the worth of that is that a retaining wall, hollow block, at the bottom of our road is on the point of being shoved out after very wet and very dry weather. It's going to cost a fortune to repair/replace it. It's about 8 foot high and 30 or more yards long, metric yards of course?Don't forget to put in loads of drainage holes too!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daft Doctor Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 The builder of our house tried to specify reinforced hollow block walls for our basement, 50% of which is completely underground. It didn't take much Googling to find out this was a very bad idea. We opted to pay extra for béton banché, solid reinforced concrete cast on site. It is not only much stronger, but more moisture resistant, partly as it is more dense than the blocks, but also since the waterproof latex coatings are easier to apply correctly.It wouldn't be so important for a garden retaining wall of course, but if significant weight and/or moisture is being retained, I'd consider the cast option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mint Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 [quote user="Jonzjob"]A mate of mine had the belt and braces approach and he put butresses into the garden side as well as the rebars. The proof of the worth of that is that a retaining wall, hollow block, at the bottom of our road is on the point of being shoved out after very wet and very dry weather. It's going to cost a fortune to repair/replace it. It's about 8 foot high and 30 or more yards long, metric yards of course?Don't forget to put in loads of drainage holes too!![/quote]Jonz, that was my point which Teapot made such naughty fun of: that you need some sort of stabilising on a wall, especially if it's a high one.I wouldn't go as far as putting in buttresses. As I have explained, short lengths of wall and then regular "staggering" (ie change of direction) will make for an attractive and stable wall.Otherwise, it would have to be very substantial footings or those T-shaped concrete sections and pour lots of concrete into the angle of the T where it lies on the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 The wall is actiually inside a hangar I have excavated a hole to permit a stair to be put in to access our Cave from within the hangar. The retaining wall will hold back the hangar floor remainder and provide a level for a new hangar floor slab to be cast soon. on two sides of of 'the retaining box' I intend to go up about another ten feet to put in a mezzanine. The walls from top to bottom will be about 15 feet,Thanks for all the advice. I was looking for pics or video showing how one creates corners etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idun Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 All the walls on our land that my OH has built, have been have been filled with what I would say was ferro cement and on very good foundations. Some have been very high and had soil pushed against one side of them and are perfectly fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 I am fairly ok with what's involved in a straight wall it's the tying in of corners etc that I am puzzled by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woolybanana Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 The whole of this thread is ruuuude, so I am reportinf it to me mam! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 Wooly I am thinking would a Wooly offer sufficient insulation if inserted in said wall :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 [quote user="BIG MAC"]I am fairly ok with what's involved in a straight wall it's the tying in of corners etc that I am puzzled by.[/quote]I wondered when we would get the real question. As the normal brick/block bond goes around the corner the re inforcing bars go through the two blocks locking them together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lehaut Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 parpaings-à-bancher are the things you are looking for, not the ones in Théière's picture. Found several good pictures of turning corners if you just google the name; the link is below to one site. Have tried to hypertext it but with out success! https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fblog.aufeminin.com%2Fblog%2Fseeone_251316_5436784%2FAutoconstruction-de-Claire-et-Roland%2FZoom-sur-une-rangee-de-parpaings-a-bancher&ei=dUNwVOTgIIisPfPbgWA&bvm=bv.80185997,d.bGQ&psig=AFQjCNFoLQUJYWPRb9xn1EOjr9b_7cYzqg&ust=1416729842715587 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Lehaut, I wasn't too bothered in the type of block just how they fit together. BTW they have the horizontal rebar laid out incorrectly in your link, they should not run parallel around the corners but the outside one should run to the inside and vice versa where they cross they should be secured to the vertical rebar locking it all together very strongly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Sometimes I see these blocks and they look as though they are bedded in mortar, other times it looks like they are assembled 'dry' (presumably after the first course is bedded level) then the rebar and concrete fill takes the place of mortar? I notice on a wall near us that slate has been put in bed joints to correct any out of level. seem what I want is the half and half blocks whatever they are called. I have some in the hangar which have got differing shapes inside including ones with circles or cylinders to be precise which align (I presume these may be for bringing a service up inside maybe a power supply for a gatepost lamp?) What I am really looking for is a good video link either to a trades guidance video or a talented DIYer. I like to learn by other's mistakes as I have made enough of my own lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 It maybe, as I have seen that the mortar is left out of the perps joints in france, I know not why but the wall will have little strength without the mortar joints. Sorry i didn't think to make a video last walls I built. Ignore the typical rubbish idea on building a swimming pool from last century you'll hopefully get some clues and links to more video's.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sO3RNZ-z5vMThe different shapes are just so french suppliers can make your life a little bit harder by mixing the load they deliver when you have carefully spec'd what you want exactly as you have cast in your rebar! [:@][6] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idun Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Thought about going to somewhere like PointP and saying you are going to start a job and need advice before ordering the moellon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woolybanana Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Great Bobo in a bucket, BM, this wall is taking as much advice as the Wailing Well of Herusalibium. In case you have never heard of this, is is a, probably mythical, well from Greek times. There was so much advice given by wise folk who knew alll about wells that it was never built! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 I know Wooly if only Leggo had rebar this would be no problem at all [Www] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Great leaping Babylonians Wooly - I think I am undone! My cunning plan was that 'surely someone else on here has done the research and will slip me a tasty wee link' ....Nope however I do feel obliged to get off my fat ass and find one myself. If I find a good one I will stick it one here as a tribute to those who sought to assist me in my hour of need. I really must be losing my touch :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 PS I have a well already :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 BM, go back a page, I gave links via youtube, must be something there takes your fancy, there was one with a women using power tools! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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