peter gers 32

what are you beaming? what depth have you  got whats the ground like is it clay? has the house got foundations you need at least nine inches below the beam on most accasions so poss alot of digging out you should install a insulation between the block and finished screed so this also increase floor height it is not cheaper than conventual concrete floor but far quicker and gives you a lot more versitility if you need any info pleaese shout

you could build the pier any size you would like if you build it 1 and half birick fill the centre up with either the muck you are using or a lea mix 6 and 1 ballast cement  but for stability you are building of a solid floor drill 2  16mm holes in floor buy a resin anchor come in a mastic tube from builders merchant about 4 pounds resin some 12 mm reforcing bars (steel rods )in to floor you will not bkick them over drill in floor about  five to six inches go any deeper and it will just go through floor oversite if you wanted to be right flash you could use metal threaded bar and then keep bolting to gether till got to ceiling and fix to ceiling but you head plate of your stud arch will support the top if you fix the arch plate to the ceiling and build the last coarses around it dont forget keep measuring your brick work gauge as you go up as you will lend up with a thick joint against ceiling or a little cut hope it might help pete

yes as usaul the women are right i am a carpeneter but mainly carry out one of houses and exstensions in uk we just bought two barns in gers in august and started to renovate them for a second home i like to move but her indoors will not yet because of schools ( going dont say it shes a fool) still if you need any advice give me a shout  and any body else ,with out this forum i be struggling pete

double batten would be on top of roof rafters that would be the super nine or king span then timber battens running down the pitch of the roof then your roof felt and then the tile batten running the usaul way this would give you sufficient air flow up and over the roof reducing condensation and future rot your suggestion in my opinion will be the cheapest. insulation (rock wool) pushed up between the rafters then batten to support the plasterboard is the old way and can be sufficient foil back plaster brd is good it will act as a vapour barrier donot pack the insulation to tight it could restrict air flow wich will cause condensation and long term rot white fungire is the first sighns of this if you can keep a gap between the felt and the insulation the better hope it might help pete 

unfortunatly you get what we pay for super nine in my opinion is great this is the layers of foil tridome in carcosonne it was only 140 euro 20m2 but you have to double batten and use the tin foil tape on joints not using this voids garantee and its performance are you detached because any insulation on top of the rafters will bring your pitch line higher celotex or kingspan would the option then but back to the point fibreglass / rockwool would be the cheapest option between rafters    

as a builder in uk i would not use anything but breathable felt its more exspensive but gives longer life than bitumen felts it save a time instead of venting at eaves level you usauly only double batten in uk  with a smooth tile like slate or stone it also depends if the roof area (loft)is a room and the type of insulation in the voids hope this is ok this is only in britain but tyvec felt have a great tech dept wich is free

help [*-)] we are planning to take our classic car to france but the number plate is worth more money than the veichle.so our thoughts are sell the plate and get a new one in france. is this possible?  or does this become coarse when you regerster a veichle?  or do we apply for a plate ? any links or post would be gratefull