I'm just curious, that's all.

[Teejay]

Recently I have been thinking about the places we have visited over the course of the last year.  Sometimes we take off for a night, maybe two, and generally drive in a south westerly direction.  Sometimes, but not always, we chance upon a place with the title 'one of the most beautiful villages in France' and often they are just that, quite beautiful.

They are also incredibly well preserved.  Perhaps a little too sanitized by their makeover, but without such tender loving care their medieval beauty might have deteriorated beyond repair.

Then I stared to think about what it must be like to live in one of these 'famous' villages or at least to live close by. Do they 'exude a sense of loss' as one travel writer penned whilst describing Cordes-s-ciel?  (can't for the life of me remember where I read this) 

On the other hand, maybe like a favourite painting, they give constant pleasure to the eye.  Or do they irritate profoundly when you can't even replace a simple item from the kitchen because  tourist shops are the only available outlet?

Last but not least, do all those open shutters become permanently closed during the winter months because the owners have gone away?  In other words are they 'ghost towns'?

If any of you live near or in fact have the good fortune to reside in 'one of the most beautiful villages of France' would it be possible to share your views about daily life in these places.  In no way am I critical of these villages, I'm just curious, that's all. Nine times out of ten they are surrounded by stunning countryside and like Turenne, have views to take the breath away.

The south west was frequently our destination as I mentioned before, but any area in France would be of interest. 

J.

 

[letrangere]

"Do they 'exude a sense of loss' as one travel writer penned whilst describing Cordes-s-ciel?  (can't for the life of me remember where I read this) "

Teejay, you read it in the Dorling Kindersley travel guide to France.  And they go on to say that Albert Camus once wrote, "Everything is beautiful there, even regret".  Strange, I feel exactly that way about Paris.

All these plus beaux villages are even more beaux out of season when the often tacky tourist shops have closed and the narrow streets and squares are free of cafe tables and chairs.  I think Cordes is especially lovely when it's rain drenched for the colour of the stone changes.  And the legions of plus beaux villages in Provence should only be visited in mid winter or, at the latest, early spring.  Yes, they are like ghost towns, invariably the only other living creature you meet is an errant cat.  But their beauty is almost painful when your senses aren't distracted by the crowds.

Saw St Emilion back in February on a fabulous clear, crisp winter's morning when this exquisite town - that's normally heaving with visitors - was coated in a heavy layer of sparkling frost.  There wasn't a single soul around.  It was just as I imagine heaven to be.

On a practical note, it possibly isn't easy living these beautiful places.  Like me in Paris having to travel six Metro stops to buy a two pin plug.  Or you struggle home laden with shopping to find tourists sitting on your front steps eating ice cream blocking your entrance.  And, like Paris, few village houses seem to come with adjacent parking.  Still, arguably all the inconveniences are a price worth paying.

Margaret

[Iceni]

We live near St Cere (north 46) seemingly surrounded by "plus beaux" villages. Autoire and Turenne are alive in winter but Collonges la Rouge was "dead" when we visited on wet day in January.

Not sure that I could cope with the influx of tourists in the summer but I don't live in such a village.

John

[Teejay]

[quote]We live near St Cere (north 46) seemingly surrounded by "plus beaux" villages. Autoire and Turenne are alive in winter but Collonges la Rouge was "dead" when we visited on wet day in January. Not sur...[/quote]

We live near St Cere (north 46) seemingly surrounded by "plus beaux" villages.

Yes, indeed, they are very beautiful.  Only last week we were in Loubressac and the view over the Autoire valley is certainly uplifting.  (the cheese is pretty tasty too)

Sometime towards the end of May we visited Rocamadour on the recommendation of some French guests at the B/B where we were all staying.  Fortunately the place was not heaving with people and we spent an enjoyable time soaking up all the splendours of this remarkable place.  The eagles flying over the Chateau were the icing on the cake as far as we were concerned.  We also had our binoculars that day!!  Wonderful sight. 

Apparently Rocamadour is the second most visited site after Mont-St-Michel. 

If I say it very, very quietly Iceni, perhaps no-one will hear that you live in a particularly beautiful corner of France.  Haven't been to St Cere but the landscape in that part of the Lot is wonderful.

J

[Teejay]

[quote]"Do they 'exude a sense of loss' as one travel writer penned whilst describing Cordes-s-ciel? (can't for the life of me remember where I read this) " Teejay, you read it in the Dorling Kindersley t...[/quote]

>Teejay, you read it in the Dorling Kindersley travel guide to France.  And they go on to say that Albert Camus once wrote, "Everything is beautiful there, even regret".  Strange, I feel exactly that way about Paris.<

MWJ probably the quote will show up twice.  Haven't got the hang of it as yet.

You are right of course.  It is the DK book.

Part of the attraction of these 'special' places is the number of artists who have chosen to work and live in them.

Take St-Cirq-Lapopie for instance,  Andre Breton wrote............'I no longer have the desire to be anywhere else'.   Followed by........'Every morning when I get up, I have the impression of contemplating the very best of art, nature and life'.

OK, these desirable locations are now heavily dependant on tourism with their tacky shops and endless cafes and restaurants.  The property prices too reflect their newfound celebrity status. But somehow, despite all this, not all their charms have been eroded, and that is probably what gave me food for thought.

J

[letrangere]

Teejay, don't get me wrong, I love these villages too, everything about them, even the rip off potteries! Which I'm reminded of just now as I have a St Cirq pot in front of me filled with pencils.  We walk there from a house we often rent.  Should have mentioned Rocadamour when talking about must-see places out of season.  Haven't been there in May but it's lovely in October.  And another gem is Domme around the same time of year when the trees have turned glorious colours and the Dordogne Valley is covered in swirling mist. Oh to be en Perigord now that autumn's here.  M 

[LesLauriers]

>Oh to be en Perigord now that autumn's here<

 

We're in the Périgord vert with far reaching views, overlooking a valley with woods on the other side. With all the other trees in the village in the valley, the 'depth of field' is fantastic and in the autumn the changing colours of all the different types of trees is just stunning. Mingled with the swirling smoke of the autumn bonfires and the mist hanging over the river in the valley in the mornings, it really is quite magical. Autum really is my favourite season!

 

[letrangere]

Your setting sounds fabulous, and I love your dog too!  M

[SaligoBay]

Teejay, you mentioned Rocamadour as being the 2nd-most visited site after Mont St Michel.

Les Baux de Provence claims the same status, 2nd after Mont St Michel!

I wonder how many others say it too? 

[Iceni]

SB - I am sure that you are right as to "who is in 2nd place". Wherever it sits in the rankings Rocamadour is heaving with grockles all summer long. Though when we visited on the Saturday before Christmas, it was closed.

Teejay - thank you for your kind comments about our bit of France. There is an added bonus in that there are few permanent residents (1999 only c 160,000 in the whole Lot). I would recommend a visit to St Cere (quiet now that the festival season is over) + Bretenoux, Turenne, Beaulieu (jam capital of Europe or so they claim) and a whole host of others. We were up on the Causse nr Loubressac in July for the 60th anniversary of an Allied parachute landing. There may not be many houses but there's lots of rocks to hit on the way down.

But enough of this chatter, barn converting calls.

John

[Teejay]

[quote]SB - I am sure that you are right as to "who is in 2nd place". Wherever it sits in the rankings Rocamadour is heaving with grockles all summer long. Though when we visited on the Saturday before Chris...[/quote]

Some people from time to time talk about the food that they miss, curries, baked beans, etc.

Well, it's quite simple for me.   I miss drystone walls and yes, I know it's peculiar, even sheep!!

(please, no jokes associated with le mouton)  

So the Causse  replenishes the bits that are missing, but eventually it's nice to come down and discover the green valleys.

[Jill<br><br>Jill (99)]

[quote]Recently I have been thinking about the places we have visited over the course of the last year. Sometimes we take off for a night, maybe two, and generally drive in a south westerly direction. Some...[/quote]

Not all of these villages are immaculate. I think Segur-Le-Chateau is one and when we were there in August, the salon de the, a hotel restaurant and a few houses appeared to be derelict. Likewise Gerberoy also has a few cobweb coated derelict houses - but they do add to the character! I like it when you see untouched houses. I'd hate to think how much it would cost to renovate some of them! Sometimes you come to villages that are not in the plus beaux list and those are often beautiful too, but in their own way. I liked Severac Le Chateau and St Beauzely and many more besides!

[SaligoBay]

Teejay, you're allowed to miss sheep.   I miss cows.  Only the skinny Camargue things here.   Camped in the Auvergne last year next to a field full of REAL cows, all big-eyed and beautiful.  Eh, it were lovely   

[Teejay]

[quote]Teejay, you're allowed to miss sheep. I miss cows. Only the skinny Camargue things here. Camped in the Auvergne last year next to a field full of REAL cows, all big-eyed and beautiful. Eh, it we...[/quote]

Je vous remercie pour votre comprehension.