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Ride on Petrol Mowers


Binky
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Some things are only obviously stocked in season - so you may be better off waiting until spring, if you can stand  to. 

Last spring, here was a huge selection available in garden shops, brico 'type' shops, and supermarkets. We bought the best we could afford. Don't forget the earplugs. Ours makes about 100 decibels when its cutting, and that's enough to cause hearing loss.

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Personally I wouldn't buy a ride-on from a Brico place. If you go to a specialist

shop (look up Motoculture de Plaisance in the yellow pages or pagesjaunes.fr)

you may pay a little more but, you can get spare parts and accessories more easily,

servicing is no problem (they usually collect and return), everything is guaranteed,

you get advice about the right mower for you garden and you build up a relationship

so when you come to buy a strimmer, hedge trimmer, quad bike !, discounts and

customer service is better.

Take note of original manufacturer. I bought a no-name rebadged mower made

by Electrolux Home Products USA, which was identical to a friends Husqvarna (except

the bodywork) but a fraction of the price.

As a side issue, I reckon we have spent more money on petrol for the mower this year than on diesel for the car !

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Funny enough I have just bought one but before I did I carried out some research.

 

Background.

 

We had an old ‘Yard King’ which came with the house. This year I bought a new cutting assembly which was consisted of a cutting deck (The bit underneath with the blades, blade bearings etc) for around €500. This was fitted and 2 months later the engine went bang. The engine ‘Briggs and Stratton’ needed a re-bore with honing and an oversize piston and rings. Not to difficult in the UK but try explaining this in French. So to cut a long story short I decided to buy a new mower.

 

The first thing I did was look at my garden which is a combination of large (about 1.5 acres)  open grassed area and the rest is grass growing round trees, vegetable plots and flower beds. I had no problems with my old mover as it was Hyrodrive and would reverse cut just by pressing the peddle.

 

There are three different types, those with gears, those with ‘Hydro’ drive and either with or without a grass collector. There are even some with power takeoffs but I don’t think the likes of us can afford the latter or would have a use for it.

 

Geared mowers (I was lucky to try one belonging to my neighbour) have a set of forward gears and a reverse gear. The throttle is fixed speed and mounted typically on the dashboard. Cutting round trees and things meant constant gear changes and quite honestly a pain in the butt. Open areas (no trees and beds to go round) were no problem for this type of mower.

 

Hydrodrive, which the Yard King was, is a hydraulic drive system which means you set the throttle speed to max and then there is either one peddle to tilt back and forth or two separate peddles, the harder you press the peddle the faster the machine goes. If you are a driver you ‘take’ to this system very quickly and can control the machine with great accuracy which results in not having to go round trees and beds with a strimmer after. You can basically go back and forth round a tree changing the angle a bit at a time and cut up to trunk no problem.

 

Collector. This is a bag that fits on the back to collect the cuttings and it’s use is a matter of personal choice. My new mower has one and it’s also great for collecting leaves which I used to do with a leaf sweeper attached to my old mower. It was big and cumbersome and not very good, worse so on uneven ground. The bag means I can sweep as I mow so if you have a load of trees then this solution might be for you. (Anyone want to buy my old sweeper). I have not found the added length of the collector on the rear any problem, in fact I hardly notice it’s there.

 

Cutting Deck. Some have wheels and others don’t. The wheels are to stop ‘grounding’ and work rather well. My old mower had a ‘floating’ deck with no wheels and often grounded going across uneven ground leaving bald patches, the new one with wheels does not do this.

 

Buying. As somebody said there are companies that sell to DIY shops who in turn re-badge them and they appear much cheaper but they do tend to be bottom end products or obsolete (sorry but it’s true). Engines are important, Honda make the best followed by Briggs and Stratton, don’t entertain anything less. Power of engine is important, we have 2.5 acres and so I went for a 15hp engine. Smaller engines run faster and can burn more petrol and don’t last so long on large areas. When looking lift the ‘hood’ and check the engine it should have the Hp written on it usually in big letters (a mans thing we like to brag about size and power).

 

Size of cut is also important. There are about 5 different sizes of cut, the bigger the area the bigger the cut, the bigger the HP of the engine, don’t buy a big cut (38”) with anything less than a 14HP engine.

 

If you have slopes then ask what angle it can cut at, this is important as you don’t want it to roll over on you. As a general rule the higher you sit the less of an angle it cuts at.

 

If you have the money then go for a big brand, either Yard King or Bora, Take the attitude that they are like anything else, decide on a model the search the internet for the cheapest price and buy from them. Most companies offer an assembly service for those not of a technical mind. I didn’t take up on this but all I had to do was put acid in the battery, fit the seat and steering wheel then assemble the grass collector. Some ship with no oil in the engine, some with but ALWAYS check before you use the mower. It was hard work getting it out of the wooden packing case but I can use the wood to make a super chicken shed.

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If you've more than an acre do think about getting a small diesel tractor instead, with a mowing attachment. It should be quicker, last a lot longer, and you can put a decent-sized trailer, and other attachments, on it.

Like many Brits, it seems, we have a middle-aged Kubota. I'm told the French laugh at them but ours has be fine.

F24.

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It may also be worth mentioning rear or side ejection of grass clippings + the add-on mulcher option.

I've found that on damp grass that a rear ejection system clogs more often than a side ejection system. It's a pain sticking your hand inside a mower (switched off) to extract wet grass. Also some rear ejects do not allow operation of the mower without the grass collector because of the safety microswitch. If you like to live dangerously you can jam a sponge in it.

The mulcher on my mower is just a spring loaded flap to 'contain' the clippings within the deck for an extra whizz round and chop. On damp grass you just end up with clods but on dry grass in the summer you don't need to collect as the clippings just 'disappear'.

BTW - I couldn't live without hydro gear on my 22HP 48" monster :-)

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The last two points are interesting and quite valid. The diesel option is the way to go if you can afford it. These are bigger beasts and this is reflected in the price, they often have a power take off like a real miniature tractor. I would have loved one but the wife wouldn’t swallow the 9,000€, spoils all my fun.

 

I forgot to mention side and rear ejection. The side ejection is where there is often a rubber ‘bit’ sticking out of one side through which the clippings are ejected. This is normally the case with units that have no grass box. They are made of rubber so you can get right up to things and are designed to be flexible although most people drill a hole and thread some string through to lift them out of the way.

 

The rear ejection system is more often employed with grass box’s. The mulching operation is often included and works as already described often taking the form of the plate which you can adjust up and down. The same plate is often used to adjust between wet and dry mowing.

 

I have to say that perhaps it is a manufacturers thing but I mowed about half a acre yesterday of 2 ft high grass with no blockages or problems of any kind with the box on. There is often an interlock so the cutter stops when the bag is emptied or moved even so ALWAYS STOP THE ENGINE BEFORE PUTTING YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER OBJECT DOWN THE EJECTION SHUTE.

 

Talking of interlocks some US mowers have one for reverse i.e. the blades stop rotating then reversing but there is often a switch to disable this if required. It’s stops you mowing the kids apparently….shame.

 

Most mowers have a tow hitch. Personally I have a leaf sweeper (currently for sale, used one season emails direct please) and a trailer which I find very useful for bringing logs up to the house and other general gardening activities.

 

Other options are things like lights, so you can mow in the dark!!!!!!

 

Finally, Ian, 48” and 22hp well that puts me to shame what a big boy you are…mmmmmmmm……..nice. Bet that brings a sparkle to the girls eyes.

 

Have fun.

 

 

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