Frank Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Hi everyone, hope someone can help. Having read the previous thread on chlorine questions, I am wondering if the mention of water temperature affecting the chlore could be my problem. I will explain! I usually 'actively winterise' the pool but due to unforseen circumstances, I was unable to do so this winter. So the long and short is when I took the cover off at the beginning of Feb, it was a very lovely shade of green (1st time for algae in our pool!) I went to the pool shop and they gave me a product (clairtop) to put in to kill off the alage. I was also advised to remove a third of the water and replace with fresh water if the cya was high. They also said the product would mask any readings for approx 2wks but to commence normal treatments after four days. So this is what I did, put in the product, waited a couple of days then vaccumed and backwashed like a mad woman possessed for a week or more! The pump was running continuosly for well over a week. After few days I changed a thrid of the water as the cya was high, started with the multi function galets and also changed the sand as that was due anyway. The Ph remained at 7.4 throughout the whole process. After 2wks had passed, there was still no reading for chlore, the cya had come down to within normal parameters and the ph remained the same. After a few more days of no chlore reading but all others seemed to be fine, I chucked in some chlore choc, still no reading. I then changed the galets to chlore disinfection thinking that maybe with all the water changes and refills from backwashing etc could be the reason for very little chlorine. I then got a chlorine reading of a heady 0.1!! This has remained the same for the last 10days. The Ph went up over the weekend from 7.4 to 7.5 then 7.6 yesterday, so I have reduced that back down to 7.4. I have an electronic tester for chlorine and PH but using strips for CYA, the pool is 75m3 and today the results are ph 7.4 chlorine 0.1 and the cya and alkalinity are well within the normal parameters on the strips (in fact the cya is getting better with each refill!)So my question is, could it be the water temperature that is too low at 12degs that is affecting the chlorine release? I don't want to go putting in more chlore choc etc if there isn't a problem or if there is, what next! Any advice would be greatfully received, many thanks in advance.Jetlagps sorry to drone on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Ok, so you have/had a high CYA level, simply draining and replacing a 1/3rd of the water won't automatically cure the problems. I have often had to drain 2/3rd to 3/4 of the water and replace to get the CYA level to where it should be but that is because I can measure it reasonably accurately, dip strips can't. I have measured pools using the disappearing dot turbidity test , whilst testing using dip strips, the real reading was 180-200ppm CYA the strips showed 30-50ppm. My only advice is to get the proper test kit.If you have anywhere near a high CYA level and you use galets or choc products you simple push the CYA level even higher making your job even harder. Buying expensive Clairtop (hydrogen peroxide) won't make it right but will increase the shop's profit margin. Hydrogen peroxide (hair bleach) is a more powerful oxidiser than chlorine but a worse disinfectant so no real use in this situation. What you need is chlorine bleach and the best way to get this cheaply is from a Brico in a 20 litre biddon. Chlorine bleach will be your choc and contains no CYA so won't make the level go even higher. Shocking a pool is not the addition of a product called choc, it is a process. You need to add enough chlorine to raise the free chlorine level to around 10ppm. if your CYA is around 50ppm then this free chlorine figure should be closer to 20ppm. You need to make regular additions to the pool to maintain this level for as long as is required as it gets used up killing algae but around 24-48 hours I would hope would do it but no guarantee. The pool will turn cloudy blue grey when you have killed the algae and then with the filter running 24/7 the pool will clear. Your hydrogen peroxide (claretop) will burn out some of your chlorine so you have that battle to win also thanks to the pool shop.The only real test is when your chlorine level is maintained without dropping over night by more than 0.5ppmDon't waste any more time and money talking to the idiots in the pool shop unless you have a bottomless wallet! and the patience of a saint. No pool has ever taken me longer than a few days to get back into perfect condition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Agreed with Theiere - we opened a pool on Wednesday morning, (owners fitting a heater next week and need it running) When the cover came off it was green with algae strings floating from the edges. In went the Javel, within an hour or so, it had started to change colour. Went back yesterday for 1st vacuum, left looking clear and clean, one more vac and it will be ready to use.Save money - dont go to the pool shop!Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Many thanks Theiere and Steve. The pool is now crystal clear and went through the stage of turning a bluey grey after a day or so, its just the chlorine level seems very very low. Do I add javel ,,if so how much would say for 75m3 (never used javel before) or shall I leave it for another week? It has been sitting at 0.1 since around last weds. Also, where can I get a proper tester for the cya please, many thanks in advanceJetlag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Jetlag, don't leave it or you'll be back where you started, The brico javel is 9.6% sodium hypochlorite (roughly 10%) so the maths is easy. A 75 m3 pool needs 750ml to raise the chlorine level by 1ppm so to apply a choc dose increase that by 10x (10ppm) to 7.5 litres. When you hold the chlorine level overnight (test at dusk and again in the morning before full sun) then you are done chocing. Your pH will rise during this but don't worry as it will fall most of the way back when the chlorine level falls back to normal (around 2.5ppm chlorine if you have 50ppm CYA). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 Many thanks Theiere, Will go to brico depot tomorrow with hubby and do it this weekend!Jetlag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilko Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Have just found this thread. Opened the pool up and lovely green colour. I estimate it's around 100 m cu, so logically should add 10 litres of 9.6% Javel, have done this over a period of 3/4 days. It has changed color and improved but still not there. Is this because I didn't add the 10 litres of Javel in one go and if so what should I do now. Be grateful for any help as first clients of season arriving this week.Thanks Wilko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilko Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Théière ..........I receved an email from you today but without a message,could you post on here SVP.RegardsWilko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Sorry Wilko, I can only post from my mobile phone as even the email I sent you had no message attached. They will just have to get their pile of shit website sorted out. Keep your chlorine level up constantly and you'll get there.I will be on Total France forum until they sort this mess out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilko Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Thanks a lot TheiereRgds Wilko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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