Damp problem

[jehe]

We have an ancient millhouse and are looking for the best solution to a couple of damp problems that we have encountered - any advice from fellow sufferers would be very much appreciated.

Firstly,we have original terracotta tiled floors that are really lovely but must have been put down straight onto the earth as, whenever we return to the property after a few days away, there are several damp patches showing up on the tiles.We have been told that to dry them out and then seal them will solve the problem,alternatively we have been told that the only solution is to rip them up and start from scratch with a waterproof membraine.We would love to keep the original floor if at all possible but obviously the damp problem must be solved.

Our second problem involves a back wall that is dug into the bank behind which has a large damp patch always evident.It is not possible to dig away behind the wall for a variety of reasons so we are contemplating waterproofing the inside of the wall and boxing it in with wood paneling.Is this the best way ??

All suggestions greatly appreciated.

[Will]

Frankly, I wouldn't worry about it too much. The majority of French houses have damp patches, it's just that they are built differently from British houses and damp proofing is rare. In many cases (though less likely in a mill) it seems to be condensation rather than damp actually getting through walls, and it disappears when the house is well heated and ventilated. Mill houses, although popular with British buyers, seem to be particularly damp - it goes with the territory.

What you propose for the wall sounds absolutely fine to me. I am no builder, but that is how many French owners would deal with it (doesn't mean to say it is the best solution of course [:)] ).

The floor is a bit more difficult. It's something I have seen in several houses, and is usually cured by laying a new concrete floor, or even just new tiles seems sufficient to stop moisture coming through if the old floor is fairly solid and level. However, as you want to keep your old tiles that won't work. I would suggest trying the drying and sealing treatment in one room, and if that doesn't improve things then you will probably have to consider laying a new floor.

[Lizzie15]

If you lay a new floor (what we did) at least you might be able to keep the existing tiles,sometimes they lift OK,although sometimes not!!.  Our 80 year old UK house is much damper than our 200+ year old French ones!!![^o)]

 

[Dave&Olive]

hi

         you can seal the tiles have a look here....http://www.safeguardeurope.com/applications/rising_damp.php

        dave

[Deimos]

Probably not related to your floor and wall but a mill can

suffer from a lot of “air-borne” damp. 

If I leave the door through to the mill channels (indoors) open for a

few hours whilst working and walking to and fro’ the neighbouring rooms will

feel damp for a few days (e.g. the banisters). 

No visible damp but things are certainly damp (e.g. coats left in the

neighbouring room, etc.).

May be worth seeking advice from a person who is familiar

with such properties as some have told me that a concrete floor with damp proof

membrane in such a property can cause problems in the walls of the room.  Maybe talk to others in your local “Amis des

Moulins …” organisation as I’m sure some others will have experienced the same

problems and found what works (or what does not work).

Ian

[The Builder.]

If you are serious about stopping the damp problem, any builder should tell you to re-lay the floor with a damp-proof membrane.Sealants can be expensive and though they can be effective, they are not longer term solutions.

If the existing tiles are laid on earth, so much the better, they should lift more easily and if re-used and pointed sympathetically you will have the original floor back.

Re-laying a concrete / screed floor is a relatively disruptive but inexpensive job and is guaranteed to work.As far as creating further problems regarding the walls is concerned, by definition watermills will never be the driest places to live and I myself would prefer at least dry floors.Without a damp proof course inserted during wall construction your options are limited.Chemical injection is a possibility but given the age of the property, in this case I think you are better off working with the damp than trying to totally eradicate it. You obviously have damp penetrating from the bank through the wall and here at the very least I would like to see the earth dug away and full tanking (a waterproof membrane) applied.

I appreciate this may not be possible but if you are going to clad the wall, be sure to use a damp-proof membrane as well as any chemical treatment behind any batten / stud work and increase ventilation wherever possible.Double check all guttering and removing overgrown vegetation, ivy, and  trees can have a dramatic effect on some walls.

It is the nature of building that some problems have always been there and are not so cost effective in trying to repair however if the damp is so bad that it will in the long term cause structural problems I would strongly advise you to seek longer term solutions.

Sorry I can't be more helpful without seeing it.

Regards........

[jehe]

Thanks for all those who have offered advice - we now have various options to consider.