Ford Anglia Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 Hi all, I've seen this stuff recommended on here for hardwood floors, especially new ones.Is this the stuff: http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=PIT10O145WV04CSTHZOCFFQ?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=danish+oil&x=12&y=12I've looked carefully at it, but it says it's for doors and furniture....... Also, is that a good price? I have NO idea what it would be to buy in France.Also, can you stain the floor before using it? Our French neighbours say we should stain, then use something that seems to translate as "glasslike", but I can't remember the exact word[8-)] Her floors and beams ARE beautiful, though.TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Smith Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 French floor finishes come in two parts, a stain and a vitrifier, a sort of hard varnish layer. Takes several years to dry... Or at least in comparison to Ronseal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford Anglia Posted March 16, 2007 Author Share Posted March 16, 2007 [quote user="Dick Smith"]French floor finishes come in two parts, a stain and a vitrifier, a sort of hard varnish layer. Takes several years to dry... Or at least in comparison to Ronseal.[/quote]My eyebrows have now come back down to earth, after I got to the bit about Ronseal.So you recommend Ronseal, then, Dick?"Vitrifier", that was the word........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 I've used a variety of stuff, but all on softwood flooring so am unsure as to how applicable it would be to hardwood flooring. I've used two types of vitrificateur and an oil. First floor I used a single standard "usage intensive" vitrificateur (good quality V33 one). However,, with dogs it was useless so it was sanded off within a week and I re-did it with a two pot vitrificateur (again, decent brand V33). The two pot stuff is chemically incompatible with the one pot stuff hence having to sand off all the one pot stuff. The two pot vitrificateur is expensive but seems very durable (even with dogs and softwood underneath). Worth the extra in my opinion.I then had another larger area to do and decided to use floor oil. again, I used to top of the range Syntilor brand floor oil (rather than the cheaper "own brands that were also available). Finish looks OK, though not as good as the two pot vitrificateur. I actuallt chose oil this time as it is easier to repair and re-do a patch whereas re-doing a small patch with vitrificateur would show an edge (and with two pot cost a fortune). It is still early days for the oil so cannot say good or not. I've just made a load of dust in the rooms concerned so it will be interesting as to how it cleans-up. The oil was significantly cheaper (ended up costing me 80€ for 60m2 - two coats). The oil also dried pretty quickly. I suppose I like oil I've always felt it is good for the wood. Also, living in a watermill, the humidity is variable (summer to winter) so oil allows for movement without cracking.All of the products I have used (the vitrificateurs and oil) are suitable for both hard and softwood flooring.Hope above helps a bit.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berkey Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 HiWe have a wooden floor in England. When it was first fitted about 6 years ago we used something called Junkers Strong Matt finnish, (I think it comes in silk as well) We sanded the floor down and applied before going to bed and left to dry overnight. The next morning the flloor was dry and we gave it a light sanding and applied another coat that night. I think we gave it 3 coats altogether. The more coats the beter. Eventhough we have a dog the floor still looks like new.We bought the Junkers from HSS when we hired the sander. The phone number for Junkers is 01376 534700.Hope this helpsMark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higgy Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 We hired a big sander brushed and washed several times then gave one good coat of Boiled Linseed Oil when dried a coat of Polyurethane vitrification . It took time but looks very good, the lounge has only had the Linseed Oil and is perfect. We bought the Linseed from a Newcastle specialist and was a reasonable price. All our floors are oak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Smith Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 [quote user="Ford Anglia"][quote user="Dick Smith"]French floor finishes come in two parts, a stain and a vitrifier, a sort of hard varnish layer. Takes several years to dry... Or at least in comparison to Ronseal.[/quote]My eyebrows have now come back down to earth, after I got to the bit about Ronseal.So you recommend Ronseal, then, Dick?"Vitrifier", that was the word...........[/quote]Yup. Why not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted March 16, 2007 Share Posted March 16, 2007 I'm totally bored with Danish oil. Anyone got indepth experience of hardwax oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford Anglia Posted March 17, 2007 Author Share Posted March 17, 2007 [quote user="Chris Head"]I'm totally bored with Danish oil. Anyone got indepth experience of hardwax oil?[/quote]In what way, "bored" Chris? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Head Posted March 17, 2007 Share Posted March 17, 2007 It takes down Oak a shade or two darker than I'd really like. I'm looking for another product that won't darken the timber to the same degree, is easy to apply and has good protective properties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford Anglia Posted March 17, 2007 Author Share Posted March 17, 2007 Ah..............I'm laying chestnut, which is quite pale, and the wife likes it a bit darker..............Chestnut..............but then, the house IS in the pays des feuillardiers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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