chirpy Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 have a heavy hammer ,4-6 lbs. and the wooden handle is cracked.I was unable to find a wood replacement and had to get a plastic fibreglass one .does the head slide in use and can nail or a sellf tapping screw be used to stop the slide/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 Synthetic tool handles are normally bonded with proper cryanoacrylate adhesive: e.g. Loctite.Cheap "Superglue" will let go the bond.Personally, for safety (since it is truly impossible to replicate industrial bonding conditions) I would carefully drill out the top of the shaft and also bond in a course-threaded HT steel screw with a largish washer, which can contain the upwards momentum of the head if it loosens. You can file the washer to contour.Also ensure scrupulous cleanliness of both head bore and new shaft using say Acetone: which since France is a sensible place can be readily purchased from most Supermarchés.Loose hammerheads can be bloody dangerous when one is giving it some welly![:-))] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted April 25, 2009 Author Share Posted April 25, 2009 HI THANKS GLUESTICK,A GOOD NAME.-THE SHAFT IS TAPERED AND HEAD CANNOT NOW COME OFF ,BUT WHEN I SLIDE IT ON I NEED TO STOP IT SLIDING BACK DOWN TOWARDS MY HANDS WHEN IN USE-I.E.GIVING IT SOME WELLY! Then I was thinking to put a screw into the shaft at right angles to prevent sliding and maybe maybe with some adhesive as well-epoxy or cyanoacrylate.[I] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 A wee bit worried about the screw at 90 degs beneath the head; such a lateral hole would weaken the shaft and thereby encourage fracture.Remembering that on take back and impact, the shaft is suffering a bending moment: with one side of the shaft in heavy compression and the other in shear.Think golf club heads and carbon shafts.................Anyone who has had the excitement of a head whizzing past their bonce when swung by a 20 stone prop-forward will empathise with my feelings..................Perhaps I would make up some small mild steel wedges and place them either side of the shaft (thinned appropiately) underneath and into the head cavity: and held in again with Loctite (e.g.). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted April 25, 2009 Author Share Posted April 25, 2009 The shaft has 2 holes drilled through and one will be above and the other below the head-what are these for?thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 Split pins maybe?Golf tees? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 Pins I suppose.Now that would worry me: introducing two lines of possible strain fracture before you have even started! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyn_Paul Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 AB - you're going to have to buy a new hammer or Gluestick will never sleep at night !p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 GP:I Walk around with two bits of shrapnel in my leg from the exploding end of an axle puller!Nuff said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 hi Gluestick,I CHECKED HANDLE AND IT IS NOT GRP -SOME KIND OF PLASTIC WITH A METAL ROD/CORE AND HOLES 3MM DIAMETER.THESE ARE NOT RIGHT THROUGH THE METAL,JUST THE PLASTIC.Name of handle orshould I say handle of the handle-is Revex and label states MCH trimatier masse/merlin.holes start4 cm from head end and then 18 cm to next one and 32cm to the next ones . total length of handle is about 90cm.TOO WET TODAY TO START SPLITTIG WOOD BUT I WILL BE CAREFULL-TOO OLD TO WISH TO BE INCAPACITATED OR DECAPITATED![:)] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 With something like the sound of what you have I would cut a slot in the end of the handle, put the head on and belt either a steel or hard wood wedge into the slot forcing the handle out against the head. Make the wedge, preferably steel, the same size as the length of the slot and I think that you would have to work VERY hard before the head came either off or back down the handle. If you only worry is that the head could slip back down the handle with heavy use then the heavyer the use the more the centrifugal force there is throwing the head against the top and thus locking it in place?? Think of a pick axe. That's a bruddy long handle with a very heavy and long head that is swung over your own head and not many of them knock any sense into the blokes swinging them [:-))] !Failing that it is a doddle to make a good lump hammer handle from a piece of ash and then wedge it in place as I have said above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 The purpose beats me.I would stick to good ol' fashioned hickory! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonzjob Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 That's wot they make golf bat 'andles out of init GS. You know, the ones wot the 'eads fly off in the gentle carresses of rugby players??[8-)] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluestick Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Used to be Jonz: in the days of such luminaries as Bobby Jones!All my panel hammers (which are now circa 45 years old...............) have Hickory Shafts: they were very expensive and still all in excellent nick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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