oldgit72 Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 I am debating whether to renovate or replace some old oak floorboards. I've already burnt out 1 angle grinder with wire brush attachment getting a few boards down to what I consider an acceptable standard so I am now questioning whether to continue. I could probably sell on the reclaimed floorboards and get new but thinner oak for less than 40euros m2 I've got about 35m2 to do. Has anyone used chestnut - it's cheaper than Oak and apparantly looks as good. Anybody had a similar dilemma? What did you do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Go and hire a floor board sander! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Or if really cruddy lift them, de nail them then run them through a planer thicknesser or....turn them over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgit72 Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 Yes the other sides are better the only issue is that where they sat on the beams has left a pair of dark lines.Mrs oldgit thinks this will add character but i'm not sure. If I re-lay them, would it be ok to put insulation and plasterboard directly underneath, ie between the floorboards and the beams or would the weight damage the plasterboard? It would be much easier than scribing and cutting plasterboard to fit between the beams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Platerboard is not designed to be load bearing so it will damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgit72 Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 [quote user="teapot"]Platerboard is not designed to be load bearing so it will damage.[/quote]Yes but if the load is spread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poolguy Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 How wide are the boards and what's their condition?I'm in the market for some reclaimed oak flooring.. about 35m2 as it happens.Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgit72 Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 They vary from 15cm to around 30cm wide. As for condition, undersides are pretty good but the uppers have been bashed about and are ingrained with dirt,lime and a variety of other unknown substances - hence the original posting. Some of the t/g are also broken but could be planed down to provide a flush join. As yet, i'm not sure if I would want to sell as , as they say, they don't make them like that any more - new ones in oak are 22-24mm thick, these are around 35. If I do decide to replace them i'll let you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 [quote user="oldgit72"][quote user="teapot"]Platerboard is not designed to be load bearing so it will damage.[/quote] Yes but if the load is spread?[/quote]It will damage slightly slower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Why use plasterboard? if you use ply then the laps can be on top of the joists and insulation concealed. You can paint ply with acrylic paint and it will look like plasterboard.The boards once turned could be sanded and stained this should get rid of the stripes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Cos that's what ceilings are made of.......Big Mac your answer should have been "dont use plasterboard it's not load bearing"Dis-satisfied with my answer I see the same thing is on another thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgit72 Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 I would need plywood in 3.5m lengths ( the room is 7m wide with a central supporting beam supporting joists at 60cm centres)though so as to avoid joints where the ends of two boards meet. With plasterborad, I could conceal the joints with a skim coat, not sure how I could do this with plywood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgit72 Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 [quote user="teapot"]Cos that's what ceilings are made of.......Big Mac your answer should have been "dont use plasterboard it's not load bearing"Dis-satisfied with my answer I see the same thing is on another thread. [/quote]Just trying to get as many opinions as I can and as someone else seems to have tried what I am thinking of I thought i'd ask the question. No offence meant and thanks for your replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 2400mm x 1200mm are both divisible by 600mm so with a little trimming can't you hide the joints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 My ceilings are pencil bead board. Plasterboard is load bearing it simply won't take much of a load however was extensively used as an isolation medium in floating floors between flats in the uk. laid straight to the original floor then chipboard above. So its horses for courses. 600 centres are fine. If you are handy with a router you could machine the ply to make it appear like planks this would help disguise the joints. I have done similar in the past to create door facings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJT Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Our ceiling between the beams in our living room is ply. It apparently has been there for many years and the paint on the joins has peeled away. I have thought about using plain lining paper on it and then emulsion but don't know if that would work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 [quote user="BIG MAC"]My ceilings are pencil bead board. Plasterboard is load bearing it simply won't take much of a load however was extensively used as an isolation medium in floating floors between flats in the uk. laid straight to the original floor then chipboard above. So its horses for courses. 600 centres are fine. If you are handy with a router you could machine the ply to make it appear like planks this would help disguise the joints. I have done similar in the past to create door facings.[/quote]Different system, used in a non load bearing way.http://manual.knaufdrywall.co.uk/themanual/cgi-bin/viewaspdf.cgi?script=system_intro&system_id=s17&pagetype=pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Frayed knot.......Plasterboard has been used in floor make ups long before the current proprietary systems came about (Wonder where they got the idea)A floating floor must still have dead and imposed loads factored into its design, ergo load bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Théière Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 That may be True Big Mac, I have just come off the phone from technical services at Knauf drywall and their plaster board is not a load bearing product and should not be used accross joists.What you may be sugesting is where the entire sheet is supported across a flat concrete floor and then the floating floor on top, which is different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG MAC Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 I am not suggesting anything.I am stating that in the application I have specified the board is laid to an existing floor and another floor laid to it. This tends to be in a suspended timber configuration between occupied levels and the chamber joists carry a floor - plasterboard - floor sandwich. The question of fixing plasterboard to the chamber joists was not discussed as I believe the point loading may compromise the integrity of the board, although in many circumstances it may be fine for quite a while this is in extremis and I wouldn't anticipate any manufacturer would formally sanction it.It's a bit like one shouldn't use PVA before tiling boards or should use special primers prior to painting them a DIYer and their money can be easily parted.I made the point that in the configuration I discussed regardeless of what Messrs Knauf may or may not say the plasterboard sandwich is exposed to loads and is therefore load bearing and until the release of the long awaited hovverfloorboard I shall stand by that comment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgit72 Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 I decided to lift the 8 worst boards and replace them with some better ones I found in my barn and clean the rest with soda crystals. I found elsewhere on the net that apparantly this is used by some furniture restorers as a quick way of getting oak back to it's original colour. Well it's certainly done that and the boards are now back to a honey brown colour albeit with some marks where the years of wear have taken their toll. As for plasterboard, I have decided to use 'doublage' 10mm gypsum+40mm polystyrene fixed to the undersides of the boards which will involve some scribing but hey ho you can't have everything.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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