How is your plasterboard between your exposed beams?

[WJT]

No Chancer, don't worry it isn't my husband. I wish it was because I could give him a much harder time than someone I have already given some money. Around here anyway probably easier to change husbands than artisans as well.[:D]

Chris, thank you for the advice. I think I understand and I will certainly suggest to him what you have said as well. He has promised me that he will make the placo level between the beams however he said that the ceiling must be lower therefore much of the beam would be covered, otherwise it is a bigger job and will cost more. I will know more when he is ready to start preparing it. But now I think he even admits that it isn't normal to have unlevel placo.[:)]

[Araucaria]

We couldn't get the whole of our ceiling level, for a very definite reason. The rest of the new plasterboard ceiling is fastened to the wooden supports for the new and nicely level floor above, which are only slightly irregular in places where different width/depth planks were used - but only a couple of centimeters different. I put a small triangular fillet in those places to avoid breaking the plasterboard.

But above this bit (the last three spaces between the beams on the right) there is a concrete hearth slab, cast between and over the beams, for a woodburner fire on the floor above. The slab is seven or eight centimeters lower than the rest of the ceiling. So it has to be a feature unfortunately, as I couldn't see any practical way of getting it all level. If we'd gone down to the level of the concrete on the rest of the ceiling, some of the beams wouldn't have shown at all.

[IMG]http://i585.photobucket.com/albums/ss293/Vanman15/foyer.jpg[/IMG]

There are other pictures of this ceiling (all our own work, we can't afford the artisans) on my blog: and specifically at

http://denchilds.blogspot.com/2009_11_01_archive.html

I imagine eventually we won't notice it all. And after all, visitors don't spend much time looking at this bit of the ceiling (while the bit above the bed actually is level).

[BIG MAC]

I am guessing the circular saw advocates have already considered their 'easy option' being blinded, deafened and generally horrible with an aching back sore arms and in fear of imminent death with a wildly spinning blade in a confined space abve their head.

My way requires 1 No crowbar remove plank install folding wedges and fix batten at the height you like not the height you are forced to accept by gash work.

You can now use the circular saw to cut the planks down into battens for subsequent joists. Do the same on the other side of the joist and carry on till all are done. You will be able to make the folding wedges out of the off cuts. and could if you wanted actually refit a few of the planks but cut to the 'Right' depth.

No addittional materials will be needed just better use of what you already have.

On the other hand send me a video of what overhead circular sawing looks like........

Bon Chance!

[powerdesal]

Sod the video, tell me how your arms etc feel after 1/2 hour, after you have recovered the use of said arms. [:P]

[nounours]

Some knowledgeable people on this thread so can I add a question?.  I have just had a new roof installed made of oak in the traditional style of A frames. The space between the boards needs filling in the same way as WJT needed to do on her room to maintain the exposed beams except this is a 6 metre high roof.  What is the recommended method of boarding between roof beams?

 

I have used plasterboard with pre-fitted foam insulation for the interior walls but is this the best for a roof?  Is there a thinner insulating option? 

 

If plasterboard is the best covering with an insulator between that and the roof boards, what is the recommended method of fixing, battens to the insides of the beams, any type of wood, sizes, screwed, nailed?  etc etc  Thanks in advance

[BIG MAC]

The easy cheat is to insulate and board out on metal framing then install dummy oak facings into the inside of the oak trusses so that it appears that the board only abutts them but in fact passes behind and is fully insulated.

If the trusses are too substantial then metal framing to the underside of the Chevrons (Rafters) using the proprietary jacks to get the rails level and to creat the air space required. You can fasten MF to the side of the trusses to allow edge fixing (Let insulation pass behind if you can)

Worthwhile wrapping the trussin paper before fixing the rails this way once the insulation and boards are up and filler work done you can paint right up to the paper then cut uff with a craft knife.

[nounours]

Thanks Big Mac, but I'm not sure I understand you. We have had a new roof installed made up of 6 oak A frames, with chestnut boards nailed on top for slate fixing.  I want  to fill the space between the trusses with plasterboard with some form of insulation behind the plasterboard, leaving the best part of the beams exposed.  Are you saying there is need for an air space between the insulation and the boards? 

 If I understand you, you are saying use metal framework, (as you would a stud wall?) and fix the plasterboard to that after filling the gap with insulation, if I have got that bit correctly, why do I need to fake anythings?

[BIG MAC]

It depends upon your dimensions and how fussed you are about having a cold spot where the oak frame is (If insufficient room to insulate behind albeit the foil faced bubble wrap does at a push in this type of area. If the roof is new and the walls are straight then in theory you could fasten roofing rails direct to the Chevrons (The roofing rails are a thinner girth than  wall framing. Accepted wisdom however sees the use of proprietary 'Jacks' fastened to the sides of the chevrons and carrying the rails (This allows some adjustment)  The insulation rolls out  between the back of the rails and chevrons leaving a gap to the underside of your sarking boards for air to pass by (Important for the longevity of the structure).

When boarding is affixed then you will notice that the bottom chord -  truss collars will appear more substantial than the top chords as they are now partially masked therefore the dimensional balance is lost. If this bothers you then you can 'Plant' timber to the inside to create the impression of equal chords. You don't need to 'Fake' anything I simply provided a couple of solutions to what you wish to do.

Of course had you asked earlier I could also have said counterbatten the outside of the roof and insulate there then you could enjoy the 'Bare but insulated' look!

Cheers

[nounours]

Thanks again for your help and patience, its much clearer now.[:D]

[BIG MAC]

I am not sure I am physically capable of being clear .....I often look at my posts and think....'could have been put simpler' ;-)

Bon chance

[WJT]

Can you believe after all this time it is just now starting to happen! I had an atrisan completely let me down with other things that needed doing beforehand.[:(]

 I must say though I have changed my mind since this was posted and want to have as much of the beam showing as possible so don't mind an uneven ceiling with very uneven beams. I have since gone to an old pub that didn't have dead even plasterboard, probably the old lathe and plaster ceilings and I like it. Fingers crossed mine will look OK.

[broy]

So four pages of pointless posts.

[WJT]

Oh dear, I guess yes.[:$] [:D]

It just didn't sound right to me so I thought I would ask how others felt. I know nothing about plasterboard or beams! I must admit, I was half way hoping that someone would come on and tell me how this is so wrong. But, it would have to be quick! [:)]

[WJT]

[quote user="Linda P"]I'd be interested to see how you get over this- we've just uncovered a ceiling exactly the same they could be photos from my kitchen... perhaps the same artisan did the work!!! Linda[/quote]

Since no one else has responded, LindaP would be very interested to know how you got on.  Surely your work couldn't be as slow as mine![:)]