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When our pool was installed we were told to run the pump, which circulates water through the automatic ph adjuster as well as the filter, for half the number of hours per day as the ambient temperature (i.e. 20 degrees - 10 hours). I have been happily doing this but on just re-opening the pool this year asked myself why? I don't have anything in writing to refer to so can anyone confirm the above - or otherwise please?

Thanks,

Graham

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[quote]I have been working from the air temperature. This is why I would like to find the definitive answer as it does seem quite a long time to run the pump each day. Just to be clear, we don't use chlorine...[/quote]

Hi,yes we use that rule of thumb too, that is what our pool installer told us. We have one saline pool and one chlorine pool and the instructions are the same for both!

 

 

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We have salt pool and you need to run filtration when temp. of water  is ;

up to 10.Centigrade                 2 hours 

10-15                                     5

15-24                                      12

24-27                                       14

27-30                                        20

from 30                                  continuously.

in spring and autumn you can filter longer to remove pollen and leaves.

if you save on electric by reducing times then you will pay more for chemicals to keep pool clean.

the time of filtration is shared out over 24 hours

I wrote last year on problem of algae which occurred by not runnig my filtration with almost disastrous results as i have well water only to top up 10x4.5 metre pool.You need to look at past mail if of interest.

water at moment 6 but in febuary cold spell iced up on surface as i had stopped pump .it is important in winter to circulate in these conditions to prevent freeze -up of equipment as i do not use plastic bottles on pool surface etc. during winterisation.do not normally get as cold a spell for as long in 87 region.

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Or alternatively you could install an automatic Chlorinator which will monitor, and maintain the Ph and the Chlorine levels at optimum all the time 24/7/365 with out you having to any of this work. No testing everytime you want a swim, and you no longer have to visit the pump house more often than anywhere else in the house. Its all done for you. Your only job is to check that the pale of chlorine and acid can still offer product, if not change it (maybe once a month - more in summer).

There is an equivenlent devise soon to be release for salt pools (its a bit more complicated but the same principle).

If you need more information then send me a PM and I'll be happy to spill the beans.

I'm guessing that when you buy a pool you don't want a parttime job to go with it, nes pas

Andrew

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Maybe i did not make 100% CLEAR -BUT MY POOL HAS AUTOMATIC CHLORINATER BUT YOU NEED TO SET THE CIRCULATION TIMES ON THE TIMER .

ALSO THE CHLORINATOR IS NOT SWICHED ON DURING WINTER AS ALGAE WILL NOT FORM BELOW 10 CENTIGADE WATER TEMPERATURE.

also original quetion mentioned ph .this is not normally adjusted automatically -you have to check water say every 2 weeks and add acid or alkali to maintain ph above neutral.i.e.ph 7

the chlorine level also needs checking so you can increase chlorination and finally for a salt pool the salinity checked as when low you will have insufficient salt in water to give required chlorine to prevent algae formation.

in this case you add bags of salt calculated to give salinity level for your volume of water.

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Sorry Ab didn't mean to get you in a mood.

I was really pointing out to all those in this thread and those just reading that there is such a thing as a devise which automatically maintains Chlorine AND ph (acid). Nothing to do.

I also want to point out to those in this thread and those reading that there is such a thing as an Automatic salinator. Nothing to do. I have information on both.

In both cases the machine controls the pump for as long as it thinks is needed. You don't need any of this calcualtion, or testing malarky any longer. Well you could still do it if you wanted if only to prove if the machine is calibrated precisely, but its no longer a daily event.

Hope I'm still not preaching to the converted. Maybe there's someone who still needs to know of these things.

Andrew

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 NO OFFENCE  AND THANKS FOR YOUR INTERESTING INFO.Not in a mood Hendo but trying to give some of my limited experience to others as we generally buy items and do not received promised back-up and information once you have paid your money.

You said it is possible to have automatic ph adjuster. How does this work as i assume you must have acid

and alkali ready to pump into the pool connected to the pump etc.

what cost are they?

like many in France i have bought a pool which is more expensive than a car but at least it does not rust and depreciate as fast.

I SUPPOSE ITS LIKE SKI HOLS. FOR RETIRED PARENTS---SKI=SPEND KIDS INHERITANCE.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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"I was really pointing out to all those in this thread and those just reading that there is such a thing as a devise which automatically maintains Chlorine AND ph (acid). Nothing to do.

I also want to point out to those in this thread and those reading that there is such a thing as an Automatic salinator. Nothing to do. I have information on both.

In both cases the machine controls the pump for as long as it thinks is needed. You don't need any of this calcualtion, or testing malarky any longer. Well you could still do it if you wanted if only to prove if the machine is calibrated precisely, but its no longer a daily event."

We have a system that automatically maintians ph - used in conjunction with UV treatment ( chemical free). However - since the sensors for ph are sited between the pump and the filter, you must first of all run the pump before the "automatic" treatment comes into effect. - i.e unless the pump is running the sytem doesn't work.

Unless I have seriously misunderstood then for a system to work as Hendo describes the sensors would have to be sited in the pool itself (and to be properly effective you would need mutiple sensors in the pool)

The bottom line is that , none of the expensive "automatic" treatments that I researched will answer Graham's original question - i.e how long do I run the pump.

rgds

Hagar

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