Plasterboard between wonky beams

[Dave]

Hi all,

we are trying to come up with an idea as to how we can measure the plasterboard before cutting it to fit between some wonky beams in what is destined to be our new kitchen, we have screwed some timber along the beams to fit the plasterboard to....have both thought of some ways of measuring/marking the board but now would like to know if anyone out there has done this before and what you actually did ....please! we don't expect to get a perfect fit but would like to make the effort....

best regards

Dave

[Ian Hoare<br>All the best<br>Ian<br>La Souvigne Corrèze<br>http:www.souvigne.com]

Hi

Really, really boring, but what I've seen done (I chickened out, myself), is to fix some taut string from end to end in the middle to use as a datum, then measure from string to the beam every 5 cms or so, and report that onto a datum line drawn down the plaster board.

A better way, IMO - which is far easier, is to fix proper supports (metal ceiling "rails") cross wise every 60 cms to which you'll later screw the plasterboards as usual, and which you ensure are coplanar and level (Lafarge etc sell the rails and support system). The faces of these "rails" will be level with the strips you've already fixed. This will mean the plaster board is properly supported at the centre.

THEN you tie/fix your string down the centre as before, and measure as before, but this time, you plan to put each section of board up in two halves, with the straight edges in the middle. (You'll need to work out how to do this as you'll be mirroring). You can then cut one board, offer it up and trim as you need to, and repeat with the other. This should give a far better match of your contours. Then finally, you use fibreglass mesh and fill as usual down the joint in the middle.

It's horribly slow though. That's why I chickened out!

[Anton Redman]

If the tops of the beams are level the cheats way is to lift the floor upstairs put the plasterboard on top of the beams and relay the floor on top of the plasterboard. I have never found beams good enough to try the idea in France

For our walls the tops of our uprights sheets where they joined a a beam varied in an interesting curve and moved by about 15 cms across 1.2 metres. I first positioned the sheets vertically with the lower edge cut to match the floor ( which naturally also was not level ) . I then trimmed the top edge about 5 cms too long ( jig saw or stanley knife depending on how much it curved. I then trimmed the edge against the wood using a pull saw. These are chrome or stainless steel and cut when you are pulling them towards you. Alternatively there is a blade which fits a stanley knife handle.

For the ceiling I just used a plywood set square and measured every 5, 10 or 20 cms and then cut the boards on the floor. I found working in 1.2 metres lengths rather than 2.4 was easier for measuring and  cutting. I used thick plywood strips say 10 cms wide to stop the joints flexing

 

[Dave]

Thanks guys, for the prompt replies but my wife and I decided to go with a similar suggestion, we measured along the beams and made marks every 20cms then i stood on the ladders and measured between the beams at these points while my long suffering wife transferred the shouted measurements to the piece of board, decide to go for 120 mm across the board, easier to handle. we have covered about 1 third of the ceiling now, after 3 hours..not bad we thought and the filling left to do along the edges doesn't look to too bad.

thanks again

Dave