Redcap Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 Bonsoir Tout le monde! Well, it's been a long time since I've posted on LF! We've been here a year now, I have looked in now and then, but to be honest we have been so busy, I really didn't think it would be such hard work! And we're not renovating!! By the way, title should read screed not sceed!! I'm having problems with a terrace above garage, the garage was built by previous owner, attached to rear of house. The terrace had been concreted over, but sadly the owner died and it's been left to deteriorate for almost 10 years. I want to tile the terrace, but it needs some sort of screed first to level out all the 'pock-marked holes'. I know there is a product called Enduit Sol Auto-Lissant (self smoothing), this is very expensive (like self-levelling), and is really only for up to 10mm. I need to bring the floor up to the level of the front terrace in order to tile all around, this will be a depth of about 25-30mm (1" - 1 1/4").My question is, can I lay a concrete screed at this thickness? The floor is solid, unlike one at ground level on a rubble/ballast/sand base, and is only for foot traffic. All my DIY books mention are concrete bases for path, drives etc with at least 4" thickness. Any advice as usual, greatfully received.Regards,Bob (22) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave&Olive Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 hi what i would do prob wrong again but 1-1/4 thick would ..you are going to tile on top of it..would bang a mix of 2 sharp sand 1 cement and 4 fine gravel mix on it sod the screed thats for experts .. dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted October 31, 2005 Author Share Posted October 31, 2005 Thanks for the advice dave, I posted this on a number of forums, very little response, must say I'm surprised considering the number of people here with building skills. Same on the www.pavingexpert.com forum, I did expect some good advice there but not a bean!! actually that is a fantastic site, don't know if it's been reccommended on LF well worth a look if you are renovating, or not. Regards,Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bannon Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Dave is right, don't bother with the compound. I used it once and made an expensive hash of it.Use a damp screed mix of sharp sand/cement at a ratio of 3:1. Tamp it down well to your levelled battens and around inch and a half thick. Should do the job. Might be worth priming the existing floor first with a mix of cement grout and a bonding agent as well.Leave it to cure for at least a week before you walk on it!Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 I (or rather my builders) used a self levelling compound when I was renovating my (then) house in the UK. After 13 years the compound had started to bubble (e.g. 6inch diam “bubbles”) and crack in places. This was not a problem as it was only being used to level and not block damp and was under a carpet. I could only see the bubbles/cracks in a cupboard. Cracks were probably bubbles that had something put on them and thus broke the compound. The bubbling did not start of at least 7 years after the stuff was laid.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 Thanks for the advice! Whether it will get done now before winter, what with all the rain is anybody's guess, so I've been busy sealing the worst of it to protect the concrete re-enforced beams underneath.Regards,Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bejay Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Just a bit of emphasis really. Whem Bannon says a damp mix he really does mean just barely damp.Secondly I think you will find that it absolutely essential that you use some suitable bonding agent on the concrete or scarify the surface with an angle grinder or even do both. Otherwise your screed just will not stick.bj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mysfloss Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 sikalatex as a bonding agent (for instance )comes in 2ltrs and 5 ltrs cans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poppy Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Is it possible to use a damp screed mix on floor insulation or does it not stick.Jan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 Hi again,We are intending to use a bonding agent, it is available in france, you can get stuff to add to the mix to improve adhesion, and also for priming/sealing. The present concrete base is very rough! I don't think we'll have any problems with it sticking, once, as advised we use a good bonding agent.So we are looking at a 'damp' mix as opposed to a nice slurry? Again, thanks for all the advice.Regards,Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bannon Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Damp as bejay said. I run it through the mixer until it stays together when you squeeze it into a lump. Bit like a snowball! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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