Bande à Joint Adhésive - Advice Please

[nomoss]

I am using Bande à joint adhésive from Brico Depot for the joints in my plasterboard walls.

It is a self adhesive glass fibre open mesh tape, and I find it easier to use than the paper tape, it doesn't need a preliminary coat of enduit, and air bubbles do not get trapped under it.

I would like to use it for the ceiling joints, but the instructions say "Ne pas appliquer sur les plafonds"

Can anyone tell me why it should not be used for ceilings, please?

 

[sid]

This has been asked before, but I can't find the thread just now. Is it because of the weight perhaps? I've never used the self-ahesive mesh-type, I used the paper tape which has worked fine on ceilings and walls. I believe only the paper tape is approved under the "normes" but I could be wrong!

EDIT found it: http://www.completefrance.com/cs/forums/2292861/ShowPost.aspx

 

[Quillan]

Well it's what I used on my kitchen ceiling and I have no problem with it. I like it because it stick's although a 'professional' will always use the paper tape stuff I am told.

[nomoss]

Thank you Sid and Quillan - absolute Princes both of you!

I have read the posts you linked to from last year, now much reassured.

I think the advice not to use for ceilings is maybe relevant for making joints without bevelled edged boards, where the extra thickness of this tape would make it difficult to cover it. Or it's just received myth.

I bought the (expensive) ceiling board with 4 edges bevelled, and already made nice looking joints on the short ends with the scrim tape.

I have also found that there is much less shrinkage of the Enduit à séchage pour joints if I mix it very stiff and keep it a day or more in a closed container (I´m using a 12 litre paint bucket). Previously, mixing as per instructions, it was a bit runny, and I had to make at least 3 passes to get a reasonable finish.

I'm an engineer, not a plasterer, and it shows [:)]

[Quillan]

I watched something on YouTube about putting up a false ceiling because my kitchen ceiling is block then plastered and I wanted to put in spotlights so I had to drop the height and put up plaster board. Anyway, on the film the guy said to do at least two pass's sanding in between which is what  did. If your using the paper tap I think you do three, first application, then the tape and another application, sand and then a third. Like you I am no builder so I do quite a bit of research first. I also used the feathered board, I didn't know there was anything other than that but obviously I am wrong. I can't see mine coming down mid, what with all the screws I put in. The board had marks for the screws printed on it so that's where I screwed it. I also used metal track and found you need to start from the sides (where it's more ridged and use the longer screws. If you don't the track twists and you end up in a right old mess. Not something I want to do again so good luck.

[John]

On one trip to France I did not get round filling the joints, but I applied the mesh jointing tape and then brused over the tape with a thinned out coat of pva. Returned 6 weeks later and all the tape was still stuck like s**t to blanket on the plasterboard. Its now been over 3 years and its still on the ceiling and shows now signs of falling or cracking.

Hope this is of some use.

Regards

John

[sid]

I only found out after I'd finished that there was such a thing as plasterboard with all 4 edges chamfered! Would have been easier for my ceilings.[Www]

I bought a plasterboard lift for £115 while on a visit to UK with the intention of selling it after I'd finished; still got it. Can't bear to part with it... well, you never know when it might come in handy!! [blink]

[nomoss]

I demolished the existing horrible white-painted lambris false ceilings throughout the house. They were too low, especially after I insulated the floors, which added 6cm to them.

Above those were original lath and plaster ceilings at 3 metres from the original floors, so I demolished those as well, so that I can easily put 25cm of ouaté de cellulose insulation on top of the new suspended ceilings.

I used metal track - Fourrure F47 - hung from the floor joists on Suspentes 40cm, and put Rail 48 all round the room, to give a finished ceiling height of 2m60. The track sits on this rail on 2 sides and the boards are screwed onto it on the other 2.

My builder loaned me his leve-plaque, which made offering it up a doddle. Now all I have to do is plaster a helluva lot of joints [:)]

Pic shows the ex-kitchen, the walls definitely needed covering!

[IMG]http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab131/nomoss/P4140004.jpg[/IMG]

 

[sid]

Lambris, don't you just love it! We've got rid of all of ours now apart from the utility room where the ceiling lambris is now painted white (it'll be gone soon).

Did you use a laser level to fix your "suspentes"? I found it made it so easy.

The wallpaper looks très jolie!  [:D]

[Théière]

[quote user="sid"]

I bought a plasterboard lift for £115 while on a visit to UK with the intention of selling it after I'd finished; still got it. Can't bear to part with it... well, you never know when it might come in handy!! [blink]

[/quote]

Hhmmm and not too far away either [;-)]

[John]

Guys

Would be interested in where you got the four tapered edge board from. I will be needing some soon for a largish ceiling in the lounge. I normally use Leroy Merlin when I am down.

Regards

John

[nomoss]

Sid. I used a laser level (borrowed from my builder) to position the rail around the perimeter, then a tight string stretched between screws temporarily fixed into opposite rails to position the fourrure.

Incidentally, I found an error in the projected level line of about 2cm from one end of a 4m wall to the other. This can easily be checked by marking the level of the beam at the RH end then swinging it round so that the LH end of the beam is on the same place. To eliminate the error I swung the level around to mark a series of points in the straight ahead position.

The level had to be returned for recalibration, I have not used it since, so I don't know how well it was corrected. I suspect many levels used may have errors, and that few users check them.

John. I got the plaster board here http://www.mara-materiaux.com/isolant_-_cloison/plaques_platre/plaque-platre-sp13-speciale-plafond-p-8279.html . It's a bit dearer than standard board, but easier to finish.

Thanks again to all for your help.

[Chancer]

Some comments on your posting and photo Nomoss, looks like a very similar situation to the rooms I have done and those remaining with a 3.5m height.

It doesnt look like you actually needed to remove your existing latte et plâtre ceiling, their looks to be enough height for the insulation even below the new deeper bastaing, the sections of ceiling I have pulled down have been incredibly messy and just served to reduce the acoustic and thermal insulation. Perhaps there was a saving on the suspents vs pitons de renovation, tiges filletées, cavaliers etc.

I slide all my insulation above the fourrures before lifting the boards, you dont appear to have done so, may I ask how you put up the insulation, I am not sure that mine is the best method, it worked with insulation with a pare vapeur but was bloomin hard for one person, I am not convinced it will work with the B&Q glass wool that I have now.

I didnt use any rails at all around the perimeter instead relying on the wall boards and studding to keep it from drooping, 4 years on and it still looks OK, no sagging or cracking, I felt that the R48's were just too large and expensive when a simple anglez corner trim like the ceiling fitters use in the UK would suffice, I have since found corniers CR5 (I think) which I will use the next time.

For levelling suspents I use a piece of string pulled between my chalk lines I then engage the notches in the suspentes to the string and nail or screw them in position.

I too borrow un leve panneau pro like yours, a brilliant piece of kit distinguished from the DIY ones by the platforms that you stand on whereby you can fix all the screws without stepping down.

 

[nomoss]

[quote user="Chancer"]

Some comments on your posting and photo Nomoss, looks like a very similar situation to the rooms I have done and those remaining with a 3.5m height.

It doesnt look like you actually needed to remove your existing latte et plâtre ceiling, We are going to blow in 25 cm of loose outé de cellulose insulation The old ceiling had already mostly fallen in the kitchen and been replaced with a heavy tile ceiling hanging on wires from nails. Didn't half make a crash when I cut the last wires!

their looks to be enough height for the insulation even below the new deeper bastaing added to support the dalle for the new chimney. The old chimney and range took up the whole end of the room , the sections of ceiling I have pulled down have been incredibly messy Yup and just served to reduce the acoustic and thermal insulation. Perhaps there was a saving on the suspents vs pitons de renovation, tiges filletées, cavaliers etc.

I slide all my insulation above the fourrures before lifting the boards, you dont appear to have done so, may I ask how you put up the insulation, I decided to use blown in insulation to completely fill the space and avoid air bridges. I am not sure that mine is the best method, it worked with insulation with a pare vapeur but was bloomin hard for one person, I am not convinced it will work with the B&Q glass wool that I have now.

I didnt use any rails at all around the perimeter instead relying on the wall boards and studding to keep it from drooping, I considered the extra load of the insulation 4 years on and it still looks OK, no sagging or cracking, I felt that the R48's were just too large and expensive Just couldn't find anything else here at the time when a simple anglez corner trim like the ceiling fitters use in the UK would suffice, I have since found corniers CR5 (I think) which I will use the next time.

For levelling suspents I use a piece of string pulled between my chalk lines I then engage the notches in the suspentes to the string and nail or screw them in position.

I too borrow un leve panneau pro like yours, a brilliant piece of kit distinguished from the DIY ones by the platforms that you stand on whereby you can fix all the screws without stepping down. Yes, I have given my builder a fair amount of work (including 3 new roofs), so he is pretty good about lending both material and advice.

 

[/quote]

[sid]

Nomoss, I have the same relationship with our builder; he will lend me stuff without my having to ask, extra long ladders, scaffolding etc, and he's given me loads of indispensible tips and advice.

I always like to buy new tools and I justify them by explaining to the "tresorière, chez nous" how impossible the task would be without it! I bought a Bosch PCL20 laser level like this http://www.bosch-pt.co.uk/boptocs2-uk/DIY/Tools/GB/en/hw/Cross+%26+Line+Laser+Levels/95298/PCL+20/21170/3165140471619/index.htm   and was lucky enough to find it on the French Ebay for 90€. It has a tripod plus a very useful bracket which you can fix to the wall and then align the bottom tip of each suspente with the beam. It's self-levelling and has a fairly wide beam. Certainly good enough for home use and I've used it for verticals since then (door frames, wall montants etc). I checked it before I started work and it keeps good accuracy. I previously had a cheap spirit-level type, the one with a laser emitter in the end, but found that when you swivelled it round and then came back to the starting point it was about 2" out !!

I measured and cut my insulation rolls (fibreglass) to width and dragged it up into the roof space before cutting the wrapper. It cuts quite easily with a 20" wood saw, and then used an old carving knife to trim to length. This was the messiest job and my wrists were itching for ages afterwards, the fibres get in everywhere!!