Jump to content

Opel Fruit<P><BR>Opel Fruit, Dept. 53<P>

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


Everything posted by Opel Fruit<P><BR>Opel Fruit, Dept. 53<P>

  1. Try this to see who might get access to your PC http://www.grc.com/default.htm Click "Shields Up" then "Proceed" Click "All Service Ports" Frighten yourself with port 443
  2. The cable gland is taped to the burner cable inside the boiler. You take the top cover off (2 screws) and undo the control panel. The burner wire can be routed left or right and the gland is in a little bag. If only the destructions told one.... Next time I'm near Limoges.... cheers.
  3. Unless you have a scanner or printer that are especially trick, they are deemed almost consumable. When you can buy an Epson printer and scanner package for 30 Euros, no spares will exist.
  4. Good to hear, well done! How long did it take you to find the cable gland for the burner cable??
  5. Use a seperate 6A disjuncteur on your tableau. This should be downstream of a Type AC Diff Interrupter, although a Type A will be OK. The cabling can be 1.5mm CSA or greater. (In theory, since the combined power of the pump and boiler is only around 250W, you could use a 2A DJ, but both components are capacitor start, so you would get continual trips.)  Also remember that the earth in the power wiring to the boiler is not sufficient to act as an earth bond for the pipework.
  6. We get this up to about 2 feet up on the inside of some walls, from time to time. We have tried various humidité/saltpetre sealing products from Rubson and Sika with very limited success. The Thompson stuff ain't effective either, though to be fair, it isn't for fluffy walls or odd stains! It seems there is little that can be done, short of re-treating and hoping. It would be a shame to Placo over it. To the best of our knowledge, there are no damp problems (rising or penetrating) and as far as we can tell, no history of this. Having said that, we cannot verify for the 400 years of the walls' life! It may be worth trying the products mentioned above, they are not difficult or obnoxious to use, but like anything you apply with a brush or roller in France, they are f.expensive. And, if you DO find a "solution", DO let us know.
  7. Can't comment on the cheap GdS. The ones we use are NF qualified, and are not particularly cheap. They are generally made by "Watts", for interest. Happy dripping.  
  8. The GdS is set at 7 bar. As the C-E heats, the GdS is designed to drip off pressure to accommodate the expansion of heating water. And only then. They have a finite life of some 3-5 years. 3 bar is the relief pressure on a sealed central heating system. This should never drip. Neither should the valve be used to drain water - it will often malfunction afterwards and drip. A 4.5 bar mains supply pressure is normal.   
  9. Darn - everything but the location! Could have even thrown in two bilingual daughters aged 8 and 9.
  10. Not on the Wireless Network we have. The PCs are about 10m apart, but if you close the two doors directly between them, the signal disappears!! And then the penny dropped. Lead paint!
  11. www.viamichelin.com www.streetmap.com www.mapquest.com www.mappy.com to name a few
  12. This very recent one takes the biscuit for utter tripe language.... Dear,        Am Mr  Marcos Anthoney i have been trying to locate at least one owner of a nice villa or Apartment thati can rent any way I am emailing you to request further information on your property as featured on the property owners.I am Marcos Anthoney  from Brooklyn N y but we stays in here in the Great Britain for our business to be in progress.The dates I am interested in are  and there will be  people in our party.Please could you email me with your availability around this time along with any further information.And to let you understand that i will be in need of the property for the date below. March 1st 2006 checking in March  31st 2008 Chacking out: Or Rather March 1st 2006 Checinking in: April 31st 2006 Cheking out: And so on....
  13. I can't understand your hesitation in taking these. Perfect grammar. No hint of Pidgen at all. Spot-on web address, real phone number. Totally plausible. Why would anyone pass these over??  
  14. Fortunately, someone else pays the bill. Have to say, for the 2 years we've had it, it has been 100% reliable. La Mairie uses it too, via a Livebox! I don't think the other 2 operators (Cegetel and Alice) offer a better deal here at the moment...they're all the same price...??????
  15. Never done that, and as far as I can glean, it shouldn't be done. It appears that flues cannot share a chimney, and I believe this is to do with the draw of the fire affecting the boiler fuming. I expect you wouldn't aim to have the boiler and the fire "on" at the same time, but it seems a no-no. Sorry I cannot be definitive. Some chimneys have more than one actual flue inside - perhaps this is a possibility?
  16. If you have a "normal" apex roof, the top of the flue must extend at least 0.4m above the ridge. It should (the top of the flue) also be 8m from the ridge of an adjacent building. To avoid having lots of flue showing, it is better to have the flue exit as near to the ridge as possible. This also avoids having to guy the flue. If it is a flat roof (unlikely), the top of the flue should be 1.2m above the roof. If the roof is a pent roof, the top of the flue should be 1.2m above the lowest part of the roof, assuming the roof is inclined at less than 15 degrees. Taking the flue through the wall and up is quite possible, but you must consult the boiler manufacturer for guidance, as each boiler has its own limitations in this respect. There are often limits on horizontal lengths, and the number of turns. You will also need to allow a slight incline away from the boiler in the horizontal. Also note that flues are quite noisy, even the lagged ones. You may wish to avoid having the flue too close to living areas. In summary, a long straight flue going straight out of the roof is the most convenient, one suspects! 
  17. right over my head all that.... Who's Alex? Who's OP? I seem to have landed in an alternative form of reality. You previously quoted "my home in the UK". Your IP address reveals all.
  18. I'm sure your puerile comment will endear you to the other 53 encumbants here. If you don't understand the question, try re-reading until you do. Oh, and stay in Britain!  
  19. Everflux is a standard Flux. Very mild. Powerflux is the aggressive one.... MDR! You are good for a laugh..... You don't actually live in France... I detect.
  20. We use GEB or CASTOLIN EUTECTIC flux, available here in bulk. 7 of use get through around 1kg per week. They are both also water-soluble. Fry's and others aren't available readily in France. Merchants tend to stock large quantities of small ranges. Interestingly, La-Co jointing compound is sold here, and is, like most American products, extremely effective. Scrupulous cleanliness = Happy bunnies
{template="widgetContainer" group="global" app="core" params="'footer', 'horizontal'"https://www.frenchentree.com/}
  • Create New...