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replacing hammer handles?


chirpy

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 have a heavy hammer ,4-6 lbs. and the wooden handle is cracked.

I was unable to find a wood replacement and had to get a plastic fibreglass one .

does the head slide in use and can nail or a sellf tapping screw be used to stop the slide/

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Synthetic tool handles are normally bonded with proper cryanoacrylate adhesive: e.g. Loctite.

Cheap "Superglue" will let go the bond.

Personally, for safety (since it is truly impossible to replicate industrial bonding conditions) I would carefully drill out the top of the shaft and also bond in a course-threaded HT steel screw with a largish washer, which can contain the upwards momentum of the head if it loosens. You can file the washer to contour.

Also ensure scrupulous cleanliness of both head bore and new shaft using say Acetone: which since France is a sensible place can be readily purchased from most Supermarchés.

Loose hammerheads can be bloody dangerous when one is giving it some welly!

[:-))]

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HI THANKS GLUESTICK,

A GOOD NAME.-THE SHAFT IS TAPERED AND HEAD CANNOT NOW COME OFF ,BUT WHEN I SLIDE IT ON I NEED TO STOP IT SLIDING BACK DOWN TOWARDS MY HANDS WHEN IN USE-I.E.GIVING IT SOME WELLY!

 

Then I was thinking  to put a screw into the shaft at right angles to prevent  sliding and maybe maybe with some adhesive as well-epoxy or cyanoacrylate.[I]

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A wee bit worried about the screw at 90 degs beneath the head; such a lateral hole would weaken the shaft and thereby encourage fracture.

Remembering that on take back and impact, the shaft is suffering a bending moment: with one side of the shaft in heavy compression and the other in shear.

Think golf club heads and carbon shafts.................

Anyone who has had the excitement of a head whizzing past their bonce when swung by a 20 stone prop-forward will empathise with my feelings..................

Perhaps I would make up some small mild steel wedges and place them either side of the shaft (thinned appropiately) underneath and into the head cavity: and held in again with Loctite (e.g.).

 

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hi Gluestick,

I CHECKED HANDLE AND IT IS NOT GRP -SOME KIND OF PLASTIC WITH A  METAL  ROD/CORE AND HOLES 3MM DIAMETER.THESE  ARE NOT RIGHT THROUGH THE METAL,JUST THE PLASTIC.

Name of handle orshould I say handle of the handle-is Revex and label states MCH trimatier masse/merlin.

holes start4 cm from head end and then 18 cm to next one and 32cm to the next ones . 

total length of handle is about 90cm.

TOO WET TODAY TO START SPLITTIG WOOD BUT I WILL BE CAREFULL-TOO OLD TO WISH TO BE INCAPACITATED OR DECAPITATED![:)]

 

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With something like the sound of what you have I would cut a slot in the end of the handle, put the head on and belt either a steel or hard wood wedge into the slot forcing the handle out against the head. Make the wedge, preferably steel, the same size as the length of the slot and I think that you would have to work VERY hard before the head came either off or back down the handle.

If you only worry is that the head could slip back down the handle with heavy use then the heavyer the use the more the centrifugal force there is throwing the head against the top and thus locking it in place?? Think of a pick axe. That's a bruddy long handle with a very heavy and long head that is swung over your own head and not many of them knock any sense into the blokes swinging them [:-))] !

Failing that it is a doddle to make a good lump hammer handle from a piece of ash and then wedge it in place as I have said above.

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