Landing Support

[Alex H]

I am constructing a landing from the existing stairs in my house. The landing is supported on one side by a block wall and will be supported the other side by the stairs / stone wall.

[IMG]http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu210/alexh01/House-October.jpg[/IMG]

This being an old house nothing is the right size, so the top of the block is in the wrong place just to rest the joists on.

Due to the requirement not to rebuild the stairs(!) and keep everything level, I believe I have 2 ways of supporting the joists on the wall.

Cut slots in the block, concrete the bottom of the slot to support the joist

or

secure a joist size piece of wood on top of the block and use joist hangars, however. only the top 2 screws of the hangar would be in the wood, the rest would be in the block (not my idea of a good solution)

Is there any other way?

[Gluestick]

Nothing wrong with using Sabots (Literally "Shoes"), firmly fitted into the blockwork: how thick are the blocks and what material are they (What type?).

The main load is being taken in shear: i.e. the down force relies on the sheer tolerance of the fixings.

One issue may well be that the Sabot would be on show: or need additional covering.

If the blockwork is too light, what's on the other side?

You could pierce the blockwork, pass the Bastaing right through and nest them on two vertical wooden pillars, locked into the floor and sitting right up against the wall, on the other side.

A Sapin bastaing (Say 50 X 150M.M.) would easily take a huge load 'cos it's in compression: would just need firm periodic fixing to maintain its vertical position.

[Alex H]

The blockwork is standard 20cm parpaing available from your local Bricomarche :-)

How do you mean "fit the sabots into the blockwork" - i thought they were just screwed to the block?

[BIG MAC]

Or use studded bar and hiti hit to mount a substantial timber 'Plate' to the face of the wall to a depth that suits then sit the joists on top of the plate and abutting the blockwork (You could use an old oak beam if its to be visible)

You could combine this method with your joist hanger idea if you liked as the plate would hide the hangers and you could 'noggin' between the joists to fully conceal - tether and prevent racking.

Alternatively you could use a steel 'Shelf angle fitted to the blockwork with the upper leg of the L concealed by the joist end and the lower lip rebated into the joist to allow plasterboarding and an invisible 'fix' (You would likely need a 2 -1/2" steel to get the bearing)

Basically there's lots you can do..........

[woolybanana]

The cupboard seems about the right height. Why not rest them on top of that and make it a true DIY job?

[powerdesal]

IMHO the compressive strength of a standard blockwork wall is quite adequate to support a joist. I would insert the joist into the blockwork to full thickness and finish around it as required.

[just john]

Rather than just performing a utilitarian job, why not have some limestone corbels and insert them into the wall lower down, then sit some oak joists on top to support the loanding. [:)] 

[Alex H]

[quote user="woolybanana"]The cupboard seems about the right height. Why not rest them on top of that and make it a true DIY job?[/quote]

Ah, but what you don't know is that its sitting on a trolley, so I can move it about whilst building - its about 15cm too short for any construction work :-)

[Alex H]

[quote user="just john "]Rather than just performing a utilitarian job, why not have some limestone corbels and insert them into the wall lower down, then sit some oak joists on top to support the loanding. [:)] [/quote]

Now I like those, but, I think they may be a bit pricey?

[Alex H]

[quote user="powerdesal"]IMHO the compressive strength of a standard blockwork wall is quite adequate to support a joist. I would insert the joist into the blockwork to full thickness and finish around it as required.[/quote]

I think that's probably the way to go, thanks to all for the suggestions :-)

[Gluestick]

[quote user="Tandem_Pilot"]The blockwork is standard 20cm parpaing available from your local Bricomarche :-)

How do you mean "fit the sabots into the blockwork" - i thought they were just screwed to the block?

[/quote]

Bad description on my part: in a rush: as normal!

Need fixing with something rather beefy: some fit on top plus on the face: some fit simply to the face of the wall.

Use frame anchors or similar, if you decide to go this route.

Parpaing tends to be a bit "Crumbly" when drilled: light fixings can loosen over time.

[just john]

[quote user="Tandem_Pilot"]  Now I like those, but, I think they may be a bit pricey? [/quote]

Not necessarily, any limestone blocks can easily be cut to a vaguely interesting shape with a simple rough saw and finished with grinder, rasp and sander, not necessarily ornately carved, bits of stone that could be used are lying in many builders yards, even fake stone corbels are available inexpensively from builders merchants for not a ransom, and as some bloke called Michelangelo said  ''
Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle,
after that he said . . .
The greater danger for most of us lies not in setting our aim too high and falling short;
but in setting our aim too low, and achieving our mark. - Michelangelo