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Morning ! Will have a full car this summer. (Passat, saloon) 2 adult passengers (not including driver), 1 infant (12kg, 3yrs old), 1 newborn (< 1 yr). Is this OK: Back, side seat, Infant car seat (12kg, 3 yrs old) [I know the airbag issue] Back, middle seat, newborn car seat (

crakpot. what a name. love it. where are you based, for reference please

Thanks Andy. What do you reckon. Extra 30%, 50%?

I would love to have insomnia Leroy merlin and other building sites have generic depth maps. Then you'll increase depth depending on altitude.

OK I found the answer. 67cm

Hello everyone, Is there a way to determine the frost line depth? We're in Bourganeuf. I've contacted the Marie and local estate agents but not hopeful of a reply. Need to bury some pipes in the garden which carry thermal water supply from solar panels. Tubing is insulated but needs to be below frost line. If the frost line isn't known, how deep should I bury it to be sure? 1 metre? 2 metres? Any guidance would be wonderful. thanks / simon

Following from my last post. You could use PVC pipe, instead of chevron cut off, benefiting from reducing cold bridging without extra insulation. This would bring the price down to 0.10 or so.

1 = http://www.bricodepot.fr/toulon/50-appuis-intermediaires/prod11875/ 2 = I've done a quick drawing to explain both my poor ability of drawing + my idea for mid point fixing on stone uneven walls. Image link = http://s15.postimg.org/6h1ttseqx/picture_4.png A = Uneven stone wall B = Expanding foam between wall & wall mounted rail (48mm). Rail is bolted to wall, but backed with expanding foam. C = Screw into chevron cut off (between wall rail and mid rail D). Screw C, is screwing one end of chevron cut off to wall rail. D = 48mm rail E = Screw rail to chevron If the vertical rail is kept installed well, then all the chevron cut offs could be swan at the same length. Whilst wood is less prone to cold bridging than metal, you could still lay some insulation foam inside the wall rail, before screwing the chevron to it. I'm going to run with this as have 100's to put in. Would love some feedback on this.

Thank you again Andy. I will take your advice well. Just regarding the mid points on framework fitting in front of stone wall. Chancer does have a nice idea. The only reason I'd hesitate on it is this. As the rails will be 150mm off a stone wall (will be insulating more), I'd need a rail cut off to brace between the stone wall & rail mid point. Would knocking out a bit of the stone wall, filling with PU spray foam & nudging in the end of a rail cut off (150mm long), screwing the other end to the vertical rail mid point. I just worry the PU spray foam might unstick in the long term from the stone. (I've already bought a few sets of snips, crimpers & some of those drill bits which limit how deep a screw sets into the board).

[quote user="Lehaut"]When we have used this system to fix to concrete floors etc, we have drilled through the "rail" with an sds drill and used the small wall fixings to knock straight through without having to move the rail again, which you would have to do if using traditional rawplugs. You can screw out the fixings if need be. Have used the tiny self tapping screws to fix the uprights, but if I do it again, will buy the crimping tool. Screw are very fiddly imo. Some uprights seem to have more holes than others, need to line them up to string the gain through.[/quote] Unfortunately, I don't have the luxury of smooth flat regular concrete. Beefy stone walls to contend with......

[quote user="Lehaut"]When we have used this system to fix to concrete floors etc, we have drilled through the "rail" with an sds drill and used the small wall fixings to knock straight through without having to move the rail again, which you would have to do if using traditional rawplugs. You can screw out the fixings if need be. Have used the tiny self tapping screws to fix the uprights, but if I do it again, will buy the crimping tool. Screw are very fiddly imo. Some uprights seem to have more holes than others, need to line them up to string the gain through.[/quote] Unfortunately, I don't have the luxury of smooth flat regular concrete. Beefy stone walls to contend with......

[quote user="andyh4"]Simon 1. The answer will depend on the width of your plasterboard - if 60cm you need 60 or 30cm centres, if 120cm you need 60 or 40cm centres. (mine is 90cm wide so different again, but this is not commonly available). The choice of 50 or 70 mm width depends really on height. The higher you need to go, the more you need to think about the 70mm studs rather than nominal 50mm. 2. For a high wall you can do as you suggest, but you must support midwall for a span above around 2m. If it is hard work to fix to the wall, buy a decent but not necessarily expensive SDS hammer drill. I struggled for years with a notional hammer drill that blunted bits and tickled stone and concrete. When I bought a 40€ SDS drill, what a difference. [/quote] Thank you Andy, 1 = Plasterboard width = 1.2m, wall height about 2.2m. What would you suggest please? 70's or 48's, spacing and if double up please? 2 = SDS hammer drill. OK, added to shopping lists. But what kind of drill bits? (drilling into stone blunts drill bits so fast). thanks / simon

For securing at the mid-point, I thought of similar. Knocking a small hole in the stone wall, filling with expanding foam, nudging the end of 150mm rail cut off into it, and screwing it to the vertical rail at its mid point. I just concerned about the foam unsticking from dirty/dusty stone in the long term.

Hello everyone, Hoping for some guidance on: 1 >>>>>>>>>>>> For building a partition wall with metal studs, what's the suggested method, A to E... A = 48mm studs, doubled back to back on 600mm centres B = A, but on 400mm centres C = 70mm single studs, 600mm centres D = C, but on 400mm centres E = C, but doubled back to back I've seen so many variations I don't know what to go for. 2 >>>>>>>>>>>>> Plaster boarding a stone wall. Easiest/quickest way to fix mid point of 48mm metal stud to the stone wall? (will have a 150mm gap for insulation). Bearing in mind stone wall is uneven and a drilling nightmare + have a huge amount of these studs to put in. I thought of mounting a 48mm rail horizontally at the mid point, to which the verticals could be screwed to more easily. many thanks / simon

This is a little off topic, however I totally agree with you. In fact, safety will be a massive priority. (there are no electrics involved), mainly framing, boarding, insulating & tiling. Thank you for your concern.

I would like to avoid this post turning into visa issue. As said, automatic 90 day visas & they've been here already. The general consensus is that this wouldn't be an issue. Father & brother in law working with me on a building site for upto 90 days (entraide familiale). I like wilko's perspective "just go for it mate" - I will now, knowing if the gendarms turn up I wont be handed a fine. A check with the Marie will be icing on the cake. Understand the accident issue & will arrange insurance from origin country. To be honest, an accident will only happen in a cold day in hell - both of them are builders in an environment where health & safety is bit like being in cirque du soleil. Thanks to everyone's input.

The country they come from has automatic entitlement to 90 days. They do not need to apply for a visa. I.e. a UK resident has automatic 6 month entitlement to Hong Kong without applying for a visa. The visa aside, it's no problem they work with me?

http://download.cnet.com/Kitchen-Designs-for-Everyone/3000-2130_4-10201463.html or pay someone to draw for you - no more than 100e should be fine.

Automatic 90 visa entitlement will be their condition, and 90 days is fine. The accident insurance is a very good point. I figure to have the most dangerous work already done before they arrive. So in principle, this should be no great problem?

Hi everyone, I would like my father & brother in law to come over to france, stay with us (for 3 months) and help me on my building project (they are from south america). The building project is a house, not intended for re-sale, in a small village. There will be no exchange of money, no contract, and with their passports we can prove their family relation to us. Would this be a problem? If not a problem, I would be interested in declaring this to the Marie and local gendarmerie out of respect. thanks / simon

Lots of ways actually: - parcelsplease.com smaller, some size restrictions but very good prices - anyvan.com, shiply.com - post a bid for people already driving that way who can add your stuff on - blablacar.com - or other other sharing websites. bit of a risk. Basically, people already going your way might be persuaded to add on some of your stuff into their journey. :-)

This is the heart of my curiosity. If you asked for wood which has not been dried, would it be cheaper than bought seasoned. Appreciate you don't know this, but perhaps someone else knows...

Hi everyone, I would like to confirm my understanding of of wood for heating. I believe wood bought out of season is cheaper than wood which has been seasoned. If yes, how much is wood out of season? Also, where is the typical place you can buy wood out of season? (I'm in 23). I ask because if it is much cheaper I would like to invest in a out of (out of season) wood. many thanks / simon

glass wool or mineral is the cheapest kind (as so many sq m needed). This will be for 2nd renovation, I regret not having having "super" insulated the first project. I also believe insulation should be cheaper by being able to bulk buy individually factory direct or as a group purchase. So far the ideas are: - Contacted all URSA factories in Europe (spain, france, poland, UK) to see if they accept bulk enquiries - Quotes coming from China. - The building merchants in UK don't offer that great prices. - Sponsored insulation prices from uk in 2011 and 2012 will not happen again (wickes confirmed by email enquiry). This would be about 60% a full truck load. thanks / simon

Hi all, I'd like to buy 1000 to 2000 sq metres of insulation. I figure on this quantity can buy from a factory at lower pricing. Does any one have any tips on who to contact? (doing the usual, googling factories in Europe).. thanks / simon