aj

Thanks for all your replies, you've been very helpful. I won't fit the membrane, just the insulation board & plasterboard. I'll also check out & improve the flashing around the 3 roof windows.  Regards, aj  

It's rained quite a few times since it leaked and I haven't noticed any more. One leak seemed to be in the vicinity of a Velux and the other leak ran down the inside of the back wall. I checked out both areas but couldn't see any reason why there were leaks. Will it happen again? Who knows? It's a pity I haven't been there for the last few months, I'd certainly know the score then. I'll carry on with the recommendations of membrane, air gap, insulation and plasterboard. aj    

Hello again Big Mac, I've just read your reply, thanks. The areas with the new roof will be lived in. Re: 'I don't think yours will neccesarily need a membrane either if the covering has sufficient laps and is secure'. Are you referring to the pan tile overlap?The pan tiles have stops on the sides, they just overlap and are pushed down to the stops. During very high winds & heavy rain there's been some water leaking in, in different parts of the roof, I don't know how often as I'm only there in the Summer at the moment. Maybe just for that reason it may be beneficial to have a liner. Thanks

Hello all,   There's no apologies needed, all your solutions looked good, and I'm grateful for your help.   I expected a waterproof membrane to be fitted under the tiles, but was told there wasn't one fitted because I didn't ask for one. One of the drawbacks of not being there.   The beams run right to left in line with the front and back walls, the boards run from the top of the roof to the gutters, and the tiles lie on top of the boards. As far as I know there are no tile battens, the top and bottom tiles are bedded in mortar.   After reading all your replies I think I'll fit membrane in the space between the beams and staple it on with a gun then fit chevrons (arris rail?) as Big Mac suggests   Then I'll fit some battens on the beams, leaving enough space for the rigid insulation board (3"?) (foil side up?) and the 20mm air gap, then fit plasterboard.   Does this seem about right?   Thanks again.   Ps. We don’t have lofts or ceilings in the reconditioned rooms.

All very interesting replies, thanks. Can I go back to my original question. I have a new pan tiled roof , the tiles lie on wooden boards and the boards rest on new wooden beams, there's no loft and there wont be a ceiling. Some of the boards have gaps of up to an inch between them exposing the underside of the tiles. Should I fill in the gaps? Can I cover the boards with waterproof membrane? I'm going to fit plasterboard half way down the beams, what should I put in the void? Some say fill it with insulation, some say insulate but leave a gap under the boards.   Thanks

We had the roof replaced a few years ago. Terracotta pan tiles, wooden boards underneath and resting on new wooden beams. We would have liked a 'membrane' sheet under the tiles, but "you don't get what you don't ask for". We're not having a ceiling, just leaving the beams exposed with insulation? and plasterboard. There are gaps of up to an inch between some of the boards. Should I fill the gaps and seal the boards with membrane? Can anyone tell me what I can put under the boards, between the beams, before I plasterboard.   Thank you  

Hello Théière, Thanks for the welcome and the reply. I've read somewhere that the sand, lime & water are mixed differently to a cement mix. Something like; add the sand then the lime to some water and leave it for a while without stirring. Could you elaborate on this if it's correct please? Andrew 

Hello all, Can anybody advise me on the mix ratio for this gun, and how to mix it properly, please? Thanks