Gyn_Paul Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 Calling on the vast repository of knowlege and experience of other Bricoleurs...What does everyone find is the easiest way to extend placco rails for a wall which is higher than 2400mm ?Do you just slot another piece of vertical rail into the top of thefirst one, snipping a bit off the wrap-around edges to make it fit, ordo you screw a top horizontal rail on and then another 'bottom' rail ontop of that, and then more side pieces? (This is largely diagonal loftwork, so none of the extension pieces is wide enough to need a centresupport)Either way it looks like a pain in the goal (fr). I would haveframed it in wood but had the metal rail lying around lookingreproachfully at me; wish I hadn't started now !p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceni Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 We fitted a horizontal top rail, then onto that a horizontal bottom rail + verticals. Hasn't fallen down yet.Johnnot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deimos Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 Don't know what I'm allowed to post any more (so I hope this wont get me banned).You can get montants up to 3m long. Plasterboard 3m as well. It's heavy (the 3m plasterboard that is) but I managed to make a room from the stuff. I would not like to be joining montants as they are bendy enough already. When I did a load recently I doubled-up the montants (back to backed them) to help make the wall a bit more ridgid.Much better to do this (provided it is high enough) as all the plasterboard I've seen does not have tapered ends (just sides), this they don't fill well and you will probably end-up with a line showing (or a small crack or something non-fatal but non-ideal).Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chancer Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 I use 2 methods, the first is to use an 18" section of rail R48 (what you use on the floor and ceiling) to overlap the butt joint between the montants, I then use my crimp tool (essential for placo in my mind) to rivet the assembly together.The result is reasonably rigid but where it is an issue I do something similar to Deimos' method, I prepare two assemblies as above, fix them to each other back to back but with one butt joint near the top the other at the bottom.I find 3m plasterboard too difficult to source and manouevre (and to expensive) so just accept the extra horizontal joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyn_Paul Posted April 10, 2007 Author Share Posted April 10, 2007 [quote user="J.R."]I use 2 methods, the first is to use an18" section of rail R48 (what you use on the floor andceiling) to overlap the butt joint between the montants, I then use mycrimp tool (essential for placo in my mind) to rivet the assemblytogether.The result is reasonably rigid but where it is an issue I dosomething similar to Deimos' method, I prepare two assemblies asabove, fix them to each other back to back but with one butt jointnear the top the other at the bottom.I find 3m plasterboard too difficult to source and manouevre (and to expensive) so just accept the extra horizontal joints.[/quote]I agree with you, J.R., about how essential a crimp tool is: I'veturned the air black and blue while trying to screw the V's to the H'swith 1) just a black placo screw; 2) starter hole punched into the V;3) pre-drilled pilot hole' 4) all the above with a wooden backingblock I was moaning about how vile the stuff was to a friend who lent me hiscrimping tool (just to shut me up probably); Such Bliss !! That and the clutch-thingy that stops you driving the screw into theplasterboard too far are the two vital things you need to do any placowork, I reckon.p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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