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Conversion of byre and shed into living accommodation


BIG MAC

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We recently have decided on a change of tack re our restoration works and plan to convert our out buildings into habitable accommodation and living in it while we restore the (Currently habitable) main house

This will allow us the flexibility to do things at our speed and gun up floors etc to allow underfloor heating to go in and proper insulation DPMs etc.

The question foremost in my mind is are there any regs against converting buildings of this kind when.

a) They are adjoined and present a flank wall to a lane.

b) We are about 100 meters from the church albeit the buildings concerned are not visible from it

c) We Occupy a corner at the intersection of two lanes and our house and Hangar forms one leg of an L Shape with the outbuildings forming the other they are adjoined in the corner by a garage so therefore all buildings attached (For now) If you imagine therefore there is a small front forecourt around which the buildings are arranged with the LH flank wall of the house on one lane a garage in the 'Inside' corner then outbuildings forming the RH leg with their RH flank wall on the other lane with the road intersection diagonally opposite the garage accross the forecourt.

Am I in a better position Permis-wise if the buildings remain attached for now because in the fullness of time I want to remove the garage to allow us to form a lane into the back garden and have two 'Separate' properties.

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I had heard that the authorities were getting stricter about allowing conversions, i.e. if it wasn't joined to an existing house, it was more difficult to get permission, so I would keep quiet about your plan to separate them for the time being[Www]

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Thanks I had heard the same thing which is why I am putting feelers out.

For those that are interested our structural engineers have calculated that the slab to form roof terrace will require to be 250mm (10" in imperial)  thick with two layers of 12mm mesh and existing floor can be used as a shutter with simple centre span acrow supports  till slab is cured

 

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Large raincoat

(b) could well be your biggest problem

Crazy notion time - why not visit your local DDE with your sketches and ideas ? If the staff there are anything like this area they will be delighted to help and advise.

John

 

 

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Bearing in mind Block and beam beams are 150mm to 225 mm then require to be  grouted / screeded and that they wont give the spread of bearing  without casting a ring beam first  the cast in situ is actually a good idea.

Raincoat analogy I am unsure what is meant, the slab should  have sufficient integrity to withstand a bomb blast let alone a wee bit of rain. If the suggestion is that the slab may fail mid pour that is why we had the existing floor assessed by a structural engineer. The edge of the slab where visible once shutters are removed will recieve slices of stone to match the existing prior to the parapet being built incorporating it and will also for the window and door lintels but being faced with oak so will look traditional and be very strong all we need is a concrete supplier with a pump and some fan dabby dozee shuttering / support 

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Just a little aside BM, when my block and beam was done they jacked it up banana style, higher in the middle (quite a bit of flex in the unlinked beams) to tension it while the screed (with mesh, wired into the steel reinforcement of the beams) went off, their comment was that (hollow) block and beam was a lighter structure than a cast slab and the whole lot is under 220mm
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Dunno why at the beams had to be jacked, they are crowned in anycase and are designed to bear their own weight plus blocks/screed dead load and imposed loading. If beams needed jacking it sounds as though they were undersized.

150mm beams can be grouted and you will end up with 160mm make up overall ....there or thereabout but need to install padstones / shelf angles / ring beam etc when working to rubble walls.

Cast in situ gives a tidier edge as it doesn't give the problem of  levelling padstones and concealing them or casting a ringbeam then concealing it. Also presents a smooth underside and is easier to weather into the building as its cast to a dpm / dpc then bituthened on top prior to Parapet being built and the slab being tiled ( We will probably establish the falls in the tiling as its not a huge span)

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