Punch
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Posts posted by Punch
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I would not like to block the gap completely as there should always be an air gap of at least 50mm beneath natural slates. The air should be able to enter from the soffit level and exit from the air vents that are higher up the roof, (if you have had them installed).
On renovation works we often cut chicken wire in a roll and wedge it into the gap between the rafters at wall top level. This stops birds and pine martins from entering the roof area whilst still allowing air circulation. If there was a wall plate we normally cut noggins to block the majority of the gap leaving a gap for air flow, which is better and more solid.
For sound insulation, if the roof line is properly insulated this should reduce sound anyway. There is nothing wrong with using foam filler but you will need to block off the top section to stop it blocking off air flow. Filler foam is expensive used this way and you would find it would not look very pretty from outside (looking up under the eaves). There is no danger from it lifting the slates and the system you have (stainless steel crochets on battens) is a very secure fixing system and the most widely used for slate roofing.
regards,
Paul
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[quote]Thanks both of you - we used the diagram on the Leroy Merlin website and it actually works!! (Don't worry Punch, we did employ an electrician for the initial rewire - this was just an extra that neede...[/quote]
As if I would say anything Helen
Glad to see you managed to figure it out. In fact there are a few ways of wiring 2 way switching.
regards,
Paul
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We've just completed a whole upstairs of a house using pine tongue and groove flooring and the client wanted it kept light. The biggest problem is that any stain or mark will be sealed in for good so you have to protect the floor and keep it clean. We lightly sanded it, vaccumed it and wiped it over very lightly with white spirit.
Pine markes very easily so it needs a very hardwearing finish. We used a "vernis vitrificateur" which is a purpose made hard varnish for wooden flooring, available in most outlets. You can either stain the floor to the desired color and then apply a clear vernis, or use a ready tinted vernis vitrificateur.
Paul
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[quote]We bought our van 2 years ago, and it's just had it's first Controle Technique. It passed, but there is apparantly a minor fault which needs to be dealt with concerning the 'ripage'.I've looked in our...[/quote]
I seem to remember from of one of my old van CT's that "ripage" refers to the excessive uneven wear on front tyres due to the tracking being out, so as Will says it is to do with the steering geometry.
Paul
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[quote]You will probably find that most opticians only sell spectacles, contact lenses etc. A few may do sight tests, but this is not normal in France. To get a sight test, you need to see an optométriste, ...[/quote]
This is one of the areas in French healthcare that is way behind the Uk. In the Uk you can have an eye test and get a pair of glasses made in two hours (Vision express) wherby the same process in France would take between two and four weeks!!
Punch
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[quote]I may be a bit adrift here, but wouldn't the EDF test the resistance difference between the supplied neutral and the installation's earth conection? Surely that's what the test is all about. I thin...[/quote]
In a Domestic situation, the EDF have nothing whatsover to do with the earth connection and therefore carry out no tests, unless you engage them privately and pay for an independant test. The responsibility is on the homeowner or their electrician to provide an earth point. The Consuel inspector will carry out the test if a certificate is required.
regards
Punch
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[quote]Hello Paul What is the actual spec for earth resistance? I guess it is 100R @ 1M, but at what "depth" for the test probe? (If the probe is out of the ground, the resistance will be infinite. If you ...[/quote]
Nick, I don't have any calculations for depth in respect of earth resistance, in fact as soil resistance is an variable unknown factor due to the many diffrent soil types, I doubt if it could be calculated.
Howver every earth electrode has a definite electrical resistance to earth.Current flowing from the electrode to the general mass of earth has to traverse concentric layers of soil immediately surrounding the electrode. Since the soil is a relatively poor conductor of electricity and as the cross sectional areas of the layers of soil nearest to the electrode are small, the result is of a "graded" resistance concentrated mainly in the soil surrounding the electrode. In fact the suface of the soil surrounding the electrode can become "live" under fault conditions and this is shown in some agicultural incidents where livestock especially cows have been killed by voltages not much more than 25 volts. 50 volts is supposed to be the limit for humans! This is how the regs arrive at 100 ohms maximum, as this would limit the fault voltage to 50V with a inter differentielle (RCD) of 500 milliamp trip current.
John - Testing the earth rod resistance. Proprietary testers are much easier than the method below which comes from my apprenticeship days ;
An alternating current of a steady value is passed between your earth electrode under test (lets' call it T) and an auxilliary electrode (T1) placed at such a distance from (T) that the resistance areas of the two electrodes do not overlap. I would recommend 6 metres minimum for this. A second auxilliary electrode (T2) which can be a metal spike driven into the ground, is inserted halfway between (T) and (T1), and the voltage drop between (T) and (T2) measured. The resistance of the earth electrodes is then the voltage between (T) and (T2) divided by the current flowing between (T) and (T1), providing THERE IS NO OVERLAP OF THE RESISTANCE.
To check that the value of the earth electodes resistance is a true value,two readings are taken with the second auxilliary electrode (T2) 6m further from, and 6m nearer to (T) respectively.
If the three results are substantially in agreement, the avearge of the three readings is taken as the resitsnce of the earth electode under test (T). If there is no such aggreement then the tests are repeated with the diatnce between (T) and (T1) increased.
The test is made with either with current at normal power frequency, in which case the resistance of the voltmeter used must be high ( in the order of 200 ohms per volt), OR with alternating current from an earth tester which produces ac current via a rectifier, and has a ditrect reading ohmeter (such as a megga). The source of the AC current if using the first method must be isolated from the mains supply by the use of a double wound transformer. And please make sure that the actual elecrode under test is isolated from the rest of the house earthing, by undoing the barrette de mesure.
Phew, now I'm off to get some real "Tea"
Punch
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[quote]Good on you Miki. I was wondering how there could be more than one supreme being anyway.Interestingly for Forum Admin/tech - it doesn't work in Safari. You just point the cursor at it and wait with a ...[/quote]
On Safari Dick ? Blimey you do get around. It only seems like last week you were traversing la Mayenne and exploring Roman fortresses and now you're somewhere with the Rhinos and tigers!
Now lets see if I'm a supreme being, (that's wingdings for Supreme Being) which is the only real reason for this post
Punch
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[quote]Like many properties in France ours has an earth stake somewhere, I have not found it yet, and an earth link on two insulators near the back door. Using a Megger and or a multimeter is there any bette...[/quote]
I would try to beg, steal or borrow (now there's a cue for a song!) a proper earth resistance tester otherwise you will never get a true reading. If you are having a Consuel inspection then it is important that the reading is below 100 ohms as you seem to know already? Depending on the soil conditions, results can vary from day to day due to dry ground etc, so 100 ohms is the absolute maximum you should allow.
Punch
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[quote]We seem to pay €13.07 abonnement a month, our heures creuses are 22.30 to 6.30, 9kW, code 026. The bills never seem too high (though it's hard to tell as we are only around for a week or so in any one...[/quote]
Yes, as Miki says you have a good tariff, but unless you make good use of your heures creuse at nightime, the extra standing charge can sometimes outweigh the HC advantage.
We are on 12KW three phase and are lucky enough to be able to have 2 out of of our 8 "heures creuses" during daytime, between 12.00 and 14.00, which is fab for the W/M, dishwasher, chauffe eau top up, and in winter occasional tumbler drier useage. Living with my three girls (four with Tilly!), it is a reasonable tarif for us, although still expensive compared to the UK.
By far the best tariff, is EJP. Although no longer available (replaced by Tempo), those who still have it are allowed to continue with it. I have several customers who still make use of it's advantageous rates.
Punch
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[quote]We have just returned from our house in Mayenne Department, a friend informed us that planning rules have changed and that you can now only convert barns that have chimneys in them. Has anyone else he...[/quote]
test post
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[quote]Can I request the addition of a 'Mark as Read' button somewhere (or is there one that I can't see at the moment)? Although many topics are of interest, there are some which are of no interest to me a...[/quote]
In fact I have found that I don't need the "mark as read" button. If on returning to the forum each time, you click on "recent topics" (next to the control panel) , and then choose the first option "posts since my last visit", all the new posts since your last visit will be displayed.
I still can't figure out why all my postings are highlighted like this!
Regards,
Paul
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[quote]After resisting electricity for 10 years we finally have the EDF coming out next wednesday to do an etude. I had to cross their palms with nearly 800 euros before they would get out from behind their...[/quote]
The Consuel will always require a completed or very nearly completed electrical installation before they will issue a certificate,otherwise everone would just install one socket and light and then call them in.
The actual certificate asks for specific information such as the value of earth electrode resistance and numbers of outlets per circuit, etc;, and also details of heating if it is electric. The process for a Consuel inspection can be a bit long winded if you are not used to it or have never applied. When we carry out renovations works the normal thing to do is get the EDF to install a tempoary supply, valid for up to a year, but you will have to supply a special box with all the correct gubbins inside. This bow usually goes adjacent to the nearest EDF pole and not in the house itself.
best regards,
Paul
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Hi Punch here,
Congragulations to forum admin for a great new forum!
A quick question please; In the old forum I used to click on "mark all" before leaving, and then on returning click on "read new" to read any new messages. The latter feature seems to be missing (or I haven't yet found out how to do it).
Perhaps a how to guide with FAQ for the forum useage would be a good idea?
Kind regards,
Paul.
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>Anyone interested in a towavan box
>trailer? Its big and in
>good condition, about luton size,
>I know of one in
>UK and if anyone is
>interested after I have used
>it may bring it over
>with some of my own
>furniture.
>
>S
Message in your inbox.
Best Regards,
Paul -
LAST EDITED ON 15-Aug-04 AT 11:24 AM (BST)
We've decided to up sticks and visit Paris for a few days. I've always found visiting Paris in August is wonderful as it is relatively quiet on the roads and there are fewer Parisians. The last time we went we found the queues in the rain at the Louvre were too long so didn't manage to get in, so this time it is on our wish list.
So bearing in mind that this time I'm taking my two young daughters (10 & 8), what are your recommendations to see and do?
Best regards,
Paul -
LAST EDITED ON 14-Aug-04 AT 01:57 PM (BST)
>How do you say in French
>that you are 'looking forward'
>to going to the cinema,
>out for a meal etc.
>
The phrase would be "attendre avec impatience" which gives phrases like, " j'attends avec impatience le plaisir de vous voir" (I'm looking forward to seeing you). Or "Nous y pensons avec impatience depuis des semaines" (W'eve been looking forward to it for weeks).
Best Regards,
Paul -
What concerns me more is the apparent lack of detail on his estimate. He should have shown precisely the m2 and detailed what he is using. Plaster is not excessively priced unless he is using a ready bagged specialist product, so it seems the bulk of the money is his labour. It is hard to judge by your description alone, but maybe he is supplying a new base support structure of lattes? You need to get him back to expalin the job in more detail and ask him how long it will take. this will give you a better idea of how he reached this price.
Best Regards,
Paul -
LAST EDITED ON 06-Aug-04 AT 07:56 PM (BST)
LAST EDITED ON 06-Aug-04 AT 07:54PM (BST)
>We have 3 vanity units fitted
>in our house, 2 in
>bathrooms and one in a
>bedroom. Each unit is
>connected to the hot and
>cold water supplies and is
>fitted with lighting and a
>switched socket - not a
>shaver type socket - wired
>directly to the mains. I
>would have thought that at
>least the sockets required
>isolating transformers - but cannot
>find any at the local
>Bricos are they not
>required in France?
Yes they are often required in any room contaning a bath or shower. It is the proximity of the light to the bath or shower that determines if you need one. Bathrooms have three zones; 0,1,2 & 3. Usually striplights have the "transformateur de sparation" built in but you can order them from trade wholesalers. You can have lighting in all zones but if it is in zones 1,2 or three then it has to have the transformer outside of volume 2.
All circuits in a SDB must be protected by a differentielle (RCD)rated at 30 milliamp trip.
The best way to understand the zones is to see the diagrams often in leaflets or books.
Best Regards,
Paul -
Good site but unfortunately no good for those of us who are French resident. Bloody annoying that you can only have Uk departure points!
Best Regards,
Paul -
LAST EDITED ON 06-Aug-04 AT 05:24 AM (BST)
>Dear All
>
>I am finally in a position
>to issue my first invoice,
>in Euros, to a French
>company and was wondering whether
>anyone had an example of
>what should be included. I
>assume name, address and SIRET
>number etc, but if some
>one has an example I
>would be extremely grateful if
>they could lend it to
>me. I am not TVA
>registered so presumably this makes
>life a bit easier.
>
>Any help would be great.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Jake
You should also put your clients TVA number and your own TVA number on the invoice; These start with the letters FR and usually two digits followed by your siret Number.The invoice must detail the items supplied or services carried out and show the rate and amount of TVA and the amounts "hors tax" and "TTC". If you are a micro then you won't have this TVA number or charge TVA.The facture should have an identifying number in sequence with the rest of your factures.Obviously you must also put the date of the facture and date of the supply of goods or services. With the other items you mentioned this will be all that is needed.
Best Regards,
Paul -
Hi John & Sue,
It's most common form is a (or several) earth rods or spikes driven into the ground to which a main earth wire connects your electrical installation earthing in your house. They can also be buried plates of steel or copper or even loops of copper wire encircling a building. They are obligatory in French wiring regulations.
The end result is to get as lower resistance as possible so any earth fault currents produced in your electrical installation can flow safely away to earth and produce enough fault current to blow a fuse or circuit breaker. This usualy means in France you need a minimum resistance of 100 ohms for installations with a main EDF disjoncteur with a 500 milliamp trip. This can be quite difficult to achieve and most installations I've come across and measured have resistances much higher. Most people just bang a spike into the ground never knowing how effective it is.
They do exist in the UK usually in rural areas where the supply is by overhead lines where the electricity board cannot supply you with an earth point. The reason you may not have come across them is that most built up areas in the Uk have an earth point supplied by the electricity board by PME which is where earth and neutral are joined at the incoming supply. This guarantees a very low earth resistance.In rural France you have no such luck and invariably it is your responsability to provide an effective earth point or prise de terre.
I hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Paul -
>Can anyone tell me what the
>French use instead of lead
>flashing?
>We've got a slight leak aroung
>the chimney and need to
>fix it before winter.
>If you can help, can
>you also tell me where
>to get it from (near
>to Carcassone if possible)?
>Many Thanks
Lead is available but as Val says zinc is the normal product to use.
Val - the correct term is "noquets" which as you say are bent sections of zinc. I prefer to have my "Noquets" on the chimney, and save my "Nookies" forthe bedroom
Best Regards,
Paul -
>I have been told that it
>is necessary to carry driving
>documents (licence, insurance, log book)
>at all times when driving
>- even when popping out
>to the shops, but is
>it not sufficient to have
>them available to produce them
>at your local gendarmerie?
>I drive a m/cycle & they're
>going to get very crumpled
>if I do have to
>carry them!
Yes it is necessary to carry the three items you mentioned as well as some form of ID at all times or you risk an on the spot fine of 90. It is often at the discretion of the gendarme and on one or two occasions we have just been "ticked off" instead of fined, athough this was in the early days when our cars were still on Uk plates and we were thought of as tourists, even though we lived here.
If you have French insurance, then you must also make sure that you have signed the green conterpart form of the insurance document as this is also penalty offence.
Best Regards,
Paul
help with electricity wiring colours
in House Renovations
Posted
[quote]I have just bought an electric towel rail / radiator that needs to be connected directly to the mains. Unlike all other French appliances I have bought, the wires are coloured and labelled as follows;...[/quote]
None of the above colours are earth. The ONLY colour allowed for earth is green/yellow.
The likelyhood is that the heater is double insulated, or rated CLASS II and therefore does not need an earth connection.
Regards,
Punch