Punch
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Posts posted by Punch
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For what it's worth, I've had my fair share of hornets nests in the last 16 years and I would never advocate to anyone that they deal with one themselves as it can be very dangerous and even one sting can be life threatening, so you would not want multiple stings as you could very easily die. All said and done, I have destroyed one or two easily accesible ones (outdoors) using the same chemical as the pompiers, intersting tip from Bill about the chemical to use. Although hornets are generally placid and not as vindictive as wasps seem to be, they will readily defend the nest in masses - so beware for war if you must be a hero!
I've seen a farmer try to get rid of them with petrol, large sticks, sprays and all kinds of other methods - IMHO, the only one that really works is the chemicals the pompiers use together with removal of the entire nest and queen where possible (and I appreciate this is often not possible)
I've had Pompiers up here three times and they always seem to want to find and destroy the queen. This apparently helps to prevent returning year after year to the same place. At night they are docile, BUT are attracted heavily to light and always have a few "guards" on duty at the nest openings which you will see. Johanna MOH , was stung twice last year within the space of a few hours after treading on one in our bedroom - the pain was immense and her foot swelled up to the size of a rugby ball! One other tip in the summer if you have hornets is to check your beds and cutains before climbing into bed. They tend to crawl indoors more than fly and on a few ocasions we have had them on curtains and bedcovers. The nests are disgusting; hornets produce a honey for the grubs which seems to mix with their faeces to form a runny black sticky substance (which is how I located our last nest) running down an inside wall in an upstairs bedroom - yuk.
Emma - The only real way you are going to stop them coming into you home is to locate and destoy the nest. The best way to locate is to go outside around dusk when most are returning to the nest and just watch them returning.They like oak trees - both for living in and also it is a favourite constituent of their nest building material!
Paul
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There is no restriction in distance as the water is under mains pressure. However it is more practical and economical to site it as close to the "point of use" as possible to avoid drawing off large amounts of cold water before the hot arrives.
Paul
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[quote]1. No such thing as extreme weather - only inappropriate clothing (Billy Connolly) 2. JFDI (just effing do it) is an old Project Management maxim If we all waited for the "right weather" nothing wou...[/quote]
Quote "If we all waited for the "right weather" nothing would get done, too cold, too wet, too hot etc. so what has to be done has to be done. Our barn conversion has continued in the recent chilly spell, more slowly than normal due to being Teletubbies lookalikes thanks to so many layers of clothes, but at least we are inside even though the temp is around and sometimes below the zero mark. " unquote
Not quite; First you have to actually get to work, and the weather can play a huge part in this. We had a very heavy snowfall last night here in Mayenne. I Left at 7.30 am this morning from Mayenne, via Evron, but couldn't get up the hill at Saint Suzanne, due to 2 lorries blocking road, and 3 cars in ditches, plus the compacted snow. No alternative routes (too dangerous - no gritting on France's minor roads). The gendarmes turned me back so it wasn't for want of trying!
I've worked outdoors all my life and are not usually beaten by the weather but looks like it's a day in the office. At least the kids are off school today so looks like it will be sledges and bonhomme de neiges!
Paul
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[quote]Hi, If you buy the latest copy of "Treasure Hunter" magazine there is an article on detecting in France. I intend taking my detector to France this year as a result of reading it! Dean.[/quote]
Would anyone be so kind as to send me the article in question, in fact the whole magazine if possible?
I will gladly pay all costs . PM me if anyone is able to do this please.
Paul
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No probs. There are two mains types of "fake" slates. The cheaper Ordinary Fibro ciments look a bit too clean cut and are too regular and squared off at the edges and so do not look like slates, but are the cheapest. I do not use these so do not have a price to hand.
If we use fibro ciments, we use a type that has a structured edge, that to the untrained eye look quite like real slate. These are 40cm x 24cm in size. Real Spanish quality slate size 32 x 22 cm, work out at about 12 euros extra per m2 of roof coverage, as opposed to fibro.
There is not that much difference in installation cost although fibros are a bit quicker due to the increased size.
Paul
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As mauhoum suggests it could be due to too high water pressure OR the groupe de securité (safety valve). This should be actioned once a month to drain mode to stop it from clogging up with calcium deposit. This is often a cause of this type of leak. The cheaper "groupes" have not got a stainless steel seat and therefore tend to leak more often.
Paul
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I would be wary of depending on a price direct from a forum as each job is different and the cost depends on several factors;
The condition of the existing chevrons (rafters) and charpente (main support A frames and purlins). If they are oak, and in reasonable condition, a roof can be stripped of all it's slates and voliges, then the existing oak rafters levelled off, re-battened, (and counter- battened if using a membrane), followed by slates or false slates 'fibro cement' held on with stainless steel crochets (slate hooks). The fibro ciments are cheaper but have a limited life and can tend to "blanche" after 15 years or so. There are also several different grades of natural slate available. The cheaper grades of slate have a lot of iron pyrites in them and will rust and look awful with stains after a year or so.
If the rafters are too out of line and are in a bad condition then it is often more cost effective to replace them with new treated pine ones.
I do quite a lot of roofing in the Dept 53 Mayenne, as I employ a French roofer.. I always use choix A slates (Samaca C47) which denotes the Spanish quarry. Some roofers will do the front of a house in good slate and the rear in cheaper to keep costs down.
Regarding Velux type windows, I would always plump for the Velux brand. We install on average around 10 a month. There are a fantastic range of external and internal blinds and accessories available, together with a 20 year guarantee and an excellent after sales service for spare parts and glass. ( I have just replaced the glass in a 20 year old velux in Domfront). The Other brands I have never used but doubt if the after sales service will still be there in a few years.
If you want any further advice or info please PM me,
Paul
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[quote]PLEASE NO NO NO NOT ANOTHER TUNG OIL POSTING
Well said that man!
While I appeciate the warnings from the poster about dangers of certain chemicals, If the correct proceedures and protective clothing and proper precautions are taken, I am sure these "carcogenic" products other products are not more dangerous than items such as;
MDF dust, Wood preservatives, paints and paint strippers, electric sanders, lime and lime based renders, in fact anything involved in renovating a FRENCH HOUSE. Some of the bottled chemicals on sale here in French supermarkets would give you far more trouble that an accelerator in a vitrificater parquet; (acide hydrochloric, acetone, etc etc.)
Paul
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Don't panic you are OK; As builders we have to have a signed copy of this attestation on our files to prove that the correct TVA rate has been applied on renovation works which is 5.5% instead of 19.6%. The part about "two years" is tha the property must be at least 2 years old, and not owned for two years, so there is no need to worry.
This link explains the rules;
http://www.batitel.com/revues/tva.php
Paul
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In what context are the letters used?
Paul
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[quote]It's my understanding that you aren't allowed to loop off the existing SOCKETS, like you can in the UK, but only from an existing, or a new JUNCTION BOX? Alcazar[/quote]
That's incorrect. You ARE allowed to do this on power circuits. Maybe you are confusing it with lighting circuits whereby you cannot link direct from each lighting point.
Paul
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Just in case you were not aware, this valve is supposed to drip water whilst the ballon is heating up. It is designed this way to allow expansion in the pressurised tank. But if it is continuosly leaking then you may have a bit of calcium build up which is not sealing it closed.
It sounds like you mean the safety valve or " groupe de securité" on your hot water ballon. These need to be operated once a month to stop calcium build up. The cheaper types do not have a stainless steel seat and therefore are more prone to clogging. You could try to operate the vidange valve a few times as this may stop the leak, otherwise it is a relatively simple job to replace the valve.
Paul
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[quote]Call in an artisan, it will be only about a 1 year wait... No not really; but you can DIY as long as you have a bit of common. First the spur can be extended but each line should feed no more than 5...[/quote]
Not quite.....The regulations state maximum number of sockets on one circuit is 8, not 5. Five is the recommeneded maximum if you want to have the "Label Promotelec" which is usually on new build pavillions.
Paul
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"Fouines" leave a very strong smell around usually from their urine and faeces. We carry out a lot of roofing works and often come across piles of faeces and urine soaked fibre glass in lofts once we have stripped off the roof. In fact, if it's not the snakes coiled up under the slates, or the hornets nests, it's the fouines that frighten me most as they charged towards you to escape!!
In fact their smell is very distinctive and characteristic. They tend to drag their prey ( birds, chickens and mice etc) into the nice warm lofts to eat it, the problem being this also rots away to an awfull mess. Common entry points are where the roof meets the top of the house wall ( at gutter level). These points can be easily blocked off with scrunched up chicken wire wedged into the gaps.¨
Paul
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At the end of the day you all have a choice. You do not have to cross the channel at all. So stop moaning and pay up and make the shareholders happy and give the management a decent bonus.
Not necessarily. I got a call last thursday at 8pm from my brother in the Uk to tell me my mother was very ill. I had no choice but to take the nearest and closest ferry which was the 23.15 Caen to Portsmouth . The total cost of this 4 night crossing for a van and cabins both ways was a staggering 441 euros! Luckily my mother stabilised but I am still smarting from the cost. A while back you used to be able to calculate the cost of your ferry crossing down to the last penny from the brochure prices. I also used to be a BF property owners club member but now I am not so sure. It is ok to get 33% or 25% discount, but discount from what? Their pricing schedule seems to be linked to the same way the lottery balls are chosen, but with one big difference, they are the only winners
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A cheque is as good as cash in France. Cheques can only be cancelled if lost, stolen or faudeulently obtained. In fact when I first moved to France I took cash to an auction to buy a van, the amount of which was not acceptable under French law. I had to return the following week with a cheque!! Bizarre but one of the big differences between UK and here.
Paul
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When joining the same size copper pipe, we use a "flaring" tool which is a set of long handled tool with various dies that fit inside the pipe and flare the end out. Ours is a proffesional tool made by Virax , but the cheaper version is a solid flaring tool which you hammer gently into the end of the pipe.
A few points; Solid bars or Copper tube will need to be heated to temper them which makes flaring easier, but the coils of flexible copper (recuit) will flare without heating as they are already tempered.
The purpose of this way of joining is that you do not need a copper coupler fitting and the other advantage is that there is only one joint to braze, unlike a coupling which has two.
If you are joining two dissimilar pipe sizes, ie; 18mm to 16mm, then they will slip inside each other without the need for any fitting, as long as the pipe has been de-burred. the latter may be why you can get it to fit.
When we work on clients houses in France that have been plumbed in 15mm (uk size) we often adapt to French sizes, by flaring either the french copper pipe or the uk 15mm, to the correct size to get a snug joint.
Hope this helps
Paul
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Mary I have PM 'ed John & Sue with the details. Here they are for you and anyone else who is interested.
Sheep details are Brian & Mary Hayley,
Le Bois Rond, 53940 Ahuillé, Telephone 02 43 66 80 36 or fax 02 43 37 82 04They are a fully registered French business and sell their stock dead or alive! I think they are lambing at the moment.Paul
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The Latest copy of Living France magazine has an article on a couple who have just done that which may be of interest,
Punch
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We have Dorset Poll sheep which are excellent, from a UK owner resident in France who now also breeds them with a Vendee breed - Rouges d' l'ouest . He does it for a living here in 53 Mayenne and I would recommend his meat as well which is totally bio. We are expecting our first flock in June. Ours are pure Dorset Poll and are unique in that they can breed all year round, are very hardy, and have excellent quality very white wool. In Australia and New zealand this race is used extensively for highest quality meat. If you are interested I will look up his contact details.
Paul
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All branches of Lapeyre sell them along with all acccesories and jointing.
Paul
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All branches of Lapeyre sell them along with all acccesories and jointing.
Paul
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Can anyone help, I'm sure that I've seen somewhere that if you are renovating a property, you pay something like 4.5% tva. Also, on one of these many house programmes that are presently aired, that it is possible to get a grant when renovating older properties to gites. Am I mistaken?
The lower TVA rate for renovation works is 5.5% subject to certain criteria, and scope of works. Otherwise it is 19.6%. This rate has been extended to at least the end of 2005, but with the help of our local CAPEB, we hope to see it extended into 2006. The property must be at least two years old, and be a private residence dwelling. Your builder should provide you with anb attestation to sign for the lower rate. There are certain items that the lower rate does not apply to and a ful explanation can be found here. http://www.batitel.com/revues/tva.php
Grants are available in most areas, but it is a very regional thing and varies by department. Most grants are for energy conservation projects or improvements, although some are also for improving façades or creating tourism. They are quite beauracratic to obtain and are not exactly generous.
Paul
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Hep20 is also available in 15mm and also in French 16mm,22mm sizes from a Uk supplier in France. he advertises in the French property news I think it is " Real heating." They actually do a 15 to 16mm fitting.
Many French caravans are plumbed using 15mm pipework, so a local caravan dealer may have the parts you need.
We work on houses previously owned by Brits which have 15mm plumbing so often adapt from 15mm to French sizes. There are several ways to do this so any plumber worth his salt should be able to do this for you.
regards,
Paul
UK Hot water cylinder
in House Renovations
Posted
It's called a "reducteur de pression" and goes in line on the cold water supply. There are two types; One is pre-regulated and the other is pre-set usually to about 2 bars. You can also buy a manometre which is a dial pressure gauge to monitor the pressure; The manometre can often be screwed into the side of a the pressure valve or attached to the existing pipework with a suitable joint/fitting.
Paul