joidevie

[quote user="sid"]Why not use multicouche everywhere? Reduce to 16mm to feed the taps, terminating in a flexible feed for the taps themselves. The joints are quite expensive but the multicouche is so easy to use, especially for an amateur (like me).[/quote] It's tempting.. And the 'raccords' can be found much cheaper here - almost half the price in some instances. A 50m roll of 20mm was very cheap as well, and delivery VERY efficient with a choice of La Poste or Relais if that's easier..

Great, thanks again.. I seem to have also been getting my 'olive joints' and 'mamelon joints' a little mixed up - seems I need to convert first.. Doh!

What I have is the 20 - 1/2" T from here which is a 20mm multicouche with a 1/2" T off it - much like the Bricodepot version (20mm).. If I wanted top T off in multicouche I would have bought this ? But I simply want to branch off in 14mm copper?? So, to fit a 14mm copper to 1/2" (15x21) do I need a mamelon reduit (as the 14mm feels 'loose' in a 15x21) or do I have to use 16mm? I understand that 12mm wilt need a reducer to 15x17? Either way, some of these so called 'compression fittings' seem to either work with 'ecrous & bagues' or not depending on the moon cycles, especially the 'appliques'.. Have I got this horribly wrong ?

[quote user="Anton Redman"]Roughly where in France are you ?[/quote] Herault.. Nearest BD is Carcassonne or Beziers.. Still trying to take in the info from your last post....

Thanks Anton.. I actually have the T's in place (your first link) with 15/21 male coming off the 20mm multicouche.. Your second link looks to be an equal connector for 16mm multicouche (not copper) ie 16mm to 16mm multicouche.. ? One of my main issues is whether I can T in 14mm copper into the 15/21 male outlet in your link number 1 even though the 14mm pipe seems a little loose in the 15/21 male fitting.. Am I right here? And also, those other general "14mm to 15/21" issues I mentioned before..? Many thanks again..

Sorry to be so ignorant again, but I'm getting somewhat fed up of running out & buying the wrong fittings.... yet again! I'm running 20mm 'multicouche' (pex type) throughout the kitchen & bathroom (not via manifolds) with compression fittings, and am basically looking to 'T' off it into 14mm copper uprights to service sinks/dishwashers etc (maybe 12 or 10mm for the loo etc.). I've run the plastic pipes around the circuit with "20 - 15 - 20" (15 = 1/2 inch?) chrome 'T's' (the special fittings for the multicouche) ready to T off from. I have 14mm bicones & bagues. Am I wrong in thinking I can T off in 14mm from a fitting marked "15"?? The copper pipe sits somewhat loosely in the 20-15-20 T.. If I am wrong here, what on earth do I use to connect to services? 15mm does not exist obviously.. (I want to use compression fittings as I don't have (or want to) use soldering or PER..). I'm getting quite confused with these fittings, and what is required to use with the 14mm bagues & bicones.. For example, I've now bought an "Applique 14 / 1/2" hoping to use compression fit to 14mm pipe ready for a washing machine 'tap' but the 'in' part has too short a thread to take when putting in a bague, so useless, and now I've bought 'coudres egales'  15x21 but when I slide the 14mm pipe in the 15 opening, it fits, but there is no concave/beveled taper for the olive to snug into (ie the opening has a flat face) and when trying to tighten up the 'ecrou', it won't take (nor does it feel right not to have a concave opening?). My questions are (for now!): - What pipe to use to T of from the so called '15' chrome multicouche T's? - What's the definitive deal with so called '14' fittings and olives, and why they don't all seem to 'work' (the only ones that are fool proof are the individual 'packs' sold in brico shops - eg "raccord pour 14mm". These all seem to 'work' and are 'compatible' with 14mm copper pipe?  [8-)]    [8-)] I'm loosing the will to live here, and would appreciate any crystal clear succinct do's and don'ts !! Many thanks for any feedback..

Gosh, thanks for all the detailed suggestions, very helpful indeed! I go back next week & will give everything a thorough check over - I'll come back to you if there's any progress on this one.. Cheers again!

I guess that must be the only reason.. Perhaps a bad one supplied..

Quick question if I may.. We recently moved and have switched to propane gas (from gaz de ville) for our cooker.. I changed the jets on the cooker and all the burners work well apart from the smallest which soots anything you put on it.. Any ideas as to the reason? Many thanks as ever for any insights...

Hi Steve.. Sounds like an awkward situation to say the least.. My initial thoughts are that the is clearly some 'issue' with one or more neighbors - be it land, ownership, or some historical 'issue' with a previous owner from far back..? These things may be better off 'confronted' and dealt with - a fence and gate may only exacerbate the resentment.. Do you have a 'French' friend locally who could 'inquire' at the local café/bar/mairie as to any local knowledge on the situation? Who knows, these things can turn on a sixpence and a sudden new 'friendship' (or 'understanding') could suddenly work in your benefit.. However if this is just plain trespassing and bad behavior, then I personally would deal with it through the usual channels! Just a thought..

It's a bit of a minefield! There is an artisan chap ('recommended' by Batiments de France) who here advocates the use of Sikalatex as a 10% 'undercoat' for limewash.. And a number of people actually add it to the limewash.. It's tempting to try, although our GF front wall had some damp issues which I've solved by removing the amiante boards the owners had put in the walls to head height (trapping lots of moisture) and the lino floor (on top of tomettes) - re-rendering in pure chalk/sand.. I certainly wouldn't want to use non breathable products on these sections, however the rest of the house may be possible as the damp is not present there.. Would CASEIN be an option as an 'undercoat' ?? Cheers again..

Hi again.. Still having problems.. Would anyone recommend  SIKALATEX as a primer? Is this a problem re. keeping a wall 'breathable'? I saw it suggested here Many thanks as ever..

[quote user="Théière"]I doubt there is much difference between the resin used on blocks and the same for sealing porous tiles. Impermeabilisant sol et carrelage [/quote] Many thanks.. I actually yesterday bought some Impermeabilisant galet/pierre naturelle from Leroy Merlin - it's an 'oily/petroleum' smelling product (rather than a polyurethane/resin 'sealant' like the RONSEAL). In the same range they have impermabilisant terre cuite (or marbre).. The product soaks in and becomes almost invisible (I remember using something similar a while back called 'Migrastop' to spray on tavertine tiles to make a shower) - and brushes can be washed in soapy water.. I was somewhat concerned about the XN Nocif (noxious) label on the bottle - a concern for a worktop??

Hi.. A quick question to those maybe in the 'know' I'm wondering if anyone knew a French equivalent to this RONSEAL block paving sealant in satin? I'm looking to seal some stone kitchen worktops.. I'm back in the UK for a week, will posting a couple of litres of this seem a little reckless? Many thanks indeed....

Hello all.. Quick question if I may - I'm doing a lot of background research on ballons. It's said that an "ACI" (anti corrosion current) unit should be left switched on at all times. Is there any actual harm caused if it is switched off for a month here and there? The house we bought has an ATLANTIC 100l aci which has had little use, and it would be a shame to have to switch.. The other option is to get a 200l, but the running costs will be much higher, and there's mostly only 2 two of us here with occasional visitors, and one of us may have a bath once in a while in the winter.. Many thanks..

Thanks.. .. more questions, sorry .... What does it actually mean "résistance stéatite"? Entry level "ATLANTIC" ballons are described as 'blindé' and no mention of 'magnesium' or 'résistance stéatite'... (I've seen SAUTER one called 'blindé' too..) Am I better off getting a 'bog standard' ATLANTIC than a bells & whistles spec (magnesium, résistance stéatite...) lesser known marque? Naturally we're after running cost efficiency, but plumbing in a load of garbage will try my patience too.. Easier to swap a well known brand element every few years than a whole new ballon? Many thanks.. All this sales jargon can be trying at times..

Good clear info.. Many thanks. I wonder how many other people have unknowingly bought a 'titane' version thinking it's the bees knees, only to switch it off when they leave the house! Are "CUMULUS" a good brand? Their name implies they are the 'original' designers of these things.. And is a higher wattage a good thing or bad (for economy)? For example some 200l units are 2400 or 3000w.. And what is the other stat to look for - time to heat up figures? Cheers again..

Hello all..  Time to look at a new chauffe eau (200l). Is  a 'titane' ballon worth the extra €150-200? I had a look on some French plomberie forums and the consensus is they are good, but one post left me wondering. One chap had a jibe at them saying something along the lines of "just wait until these people leave it switched off for a while..". I went on the read something about the fact that they need power for the 'self cleaning' process to work? Have I got this wrong? This would make it a hugely impractical choice! Surely there must be a workaround or system in place? On another note, Bricoman are doing a 200l (magesium) made by Cumulus themselves (the original makers?) which sounds good on paper, but I can't even find their web site to check the stats!? Or any recommendations on units/brands (magnesium or titane) at entry level prices - We have Bricodepot, Bricoman, Bricomarché & Tridome. There are so many badged (not big names) products around that possibly are the same.. But cheap Chinese replicas are off the menu these days.. OK for a screwdriver or bucket, but no longer on electricals! Many thanks to any hot water aficionados out there!

[quote user="Chancer"]A good point Fisherman[/quote] Agreed.. Maybe step latter time again.. Thanks.

[quote user="Anton Redman"]I thought we had a unique problem with a chimney immediately in front of window.[/quote] Clearly not! A very bizarre place, half obscuring the window.. It's not really a loft space as it's a less tall addition to the house without a 'grenier'', probably done 100 or so years ago. Highish ceilings, but sensibly lowered to make it easier to heat and cosier for a bathroom. I suppose before I took out the tomettes (which the chimney were built of) the 'chimney' (I call it that, but in truth it's a 100 old version of the modern built with clay blocs type), it had some form of support from the floor where it 'rested' (without any huge attention to strengthening). Now, I guess a dozen or so tomettes are 'hanging' off the wall above the false ceiling forming the last metre or so of the so called chimney, but seem pretty solidly attached. My gut instinct (and will to live) are to leave it and cover up.. I guess the worst that could happen is they fall off, but as there's no actual chimney above the roof tiles, hardly a titanic collapse, more a pain in the.. ? It's hard to know how many cans of worms to open doing these projects?

Would anyone bother removing around the last 80cm or so of chimney just under the roof space? I've just removed the 'chimney breast' from the first floor (bathroom) which had been left there (in front of a window!).. The ground floor section had be removed by the previous owners many moons ago. It was of 'tomette & chalk' construction and lifted away fairly easily with a big hammer.. Question is, above the false ceiling remains roughly 80 cm of 'leftover' chimney breast firmly attached to the wall, currently with nothing supporting it from below... It seems very intact and solidly attached (around 60cm wide & 25cm deep).. But a huge hassle to rip out the ceiling to remove the last tomettes.. There is no chimney left above the roof tiles as it has long ago been tiled over and blocked.. I'm no structural engineer, and wanted to get any second 'opinions' or thoughts on saving a lot of additional work.. Many thanks as ever for all your help..

Great, many thanks for the quick & well informed advice!

Hi all.. I'm just re-plumbing our bathroom & kitchen, and I'm considering adding some sort of odor vent into the 'evacuation'.. Can anyone enlighten me as to where & how to place this? (link with diagrams?). The bathroom is directly above the kitchen, with the 100mm loo pipe running along the outside wall into which all the waste will flow. There is also a loo on the ground floor adjacent to the kitchen, and this waste will also flow directly into the egout. Is it simply a vertical extension of the 100mm outflow running on the outside wall which clears the roof height? Does it want to be 100mm or reduced to 40mm (much cheaper unit!)? Do I really even want to fit one, or should I wait and see if there's any smell issues and then adapt the system? As you can tell, I'm no plumber - and on my last project I didn't fit anything, but this time around I hope to improve my knowledge (and end product!) Many thanks for any guidance..

Some top answers as usual - many thanks! I'll return the hardener and invest in a half litre the JULIEN (Bricodepot have it on their web site) first, then consider stinking the house out (every review of the Bin Zinsser flags this..)

Looks like good stuff.. Can only find it at Leroy Merlin or Castorama online, so it's either a long trip, or running around like a madman from one brico to another more locally.. Clearly an oil based product.. Many thanks..